
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 

























THE 


UNIVERSAL COOKERY BOOK 


PRACTICAL RECIPES FOR 
• HOUSEHOLD USE 


Selected from the most eminent authorities , including 


MARION HARLAND 
THE BOSTON COOK-BOOK 
MISS PARLOA 

AMERICAN HOME COOK-BOOK 
MRS. WASHINGTON 


VIRGINIA COOKERY BOOK 
THOMAS J. MURREY 
PRESBYTERIAN COOK-BOOK 
MISS CORSON 
EVERY-DAY COOK-BOOK 


A nd many others , together with Original Recipes , 



GERTRUDE STROHM 


BOSTON 

CHARLES E. BROWN & CO 

1893 









Copyright, 1887, 

By WHITE, STOKES, & ALLEN. 


Copyright, 1892, 

By CHARLES E. BROWN & CO. 



S. J. fARKHILL A CO., PRINTSRS 
BOSTON 




PREFACE. 


The compiler desires to express her sense of the large 
debt of gratitude she owes to the many authors and pub¬ 
lishers whose generous contributions have enabled her to 
carry out a cherished plan. It is a pleasure to mention the 
names of those to whom she is so much indebted, and she 
desires to render her acknowledgments to the following: — 

Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, Mrs. A. D. T. Whitney, 
Mrs. H. P. Spofford, Mrs. R. H. Davis, Mrs. Mary Mapes 
Dodge, Marion Harland, Mrs. D. A. Lincoln, Mrs. Mary 
Stuart Smith, Miss Juliet Corson, and Miss Maria Parloa, 
Miss Estelle M. Hatch of the “ Boston Globe,” Mr. John 
Burroughs, and Mr. Charles D. Warner. Also to the Rev. 
John H. Thomas of Indiana, the holder of the copyright 
of the work published in Dayton, O.; Messrs. Houghton, 
Mifflin, & Co.; Estes & Lauriat; Roberts Brothers ; Harper 
& Brothers; G. P. Putnam’s Sons; Dick & Fitzgerald; 
Dodd, Mead, & Co.; J. B. Lippincott Co.; Mr. Charles 
J. Peterson; Belford, Clarke, & Co.; the publishers of 
“ Arthur’s Home Magazine ” and “ Godey’s Lady’s Book,” 
of “ Good Housekeeping,” “The Caterer,” and “The 
Cook.” 

Also to the many editors who have aided her, and whose 
papers will be found duly credited throughout this volume. 







INDEX TO LITERARY SELECTIONS AND 

QUOTATIONS. 


FAGE 

Dinner Scene from “Riquet a la Houppe:” Mrs . Anne 

Thackeray Ritchie .3 

Quotation from “ The Ballad of Bouillabaisse : ” 

Thackeray .7 

The Trout: 15 

Kisses at Market: Anonymous .29 

Beefsteak Pudding. “Martin Chuzzlewit:” Dickens . 32 

Mutton and Turnips: Charles Lamb .38 

Roast Pig : Charles Lamb .43 

Bacon and Eggs : Father Trout's Relics .45 

The Sabbath Supper Chime: Puck .49 

On Tripe. “The Chimes:” Dickens .50 

Sam Lawson’s Turkey. “Oldtown Folks : ” Mrs . Stowe . 59 

Roast Goose. “A Christmas Carol:” Dickens ... 65 

Stuffed Peacock : Pierre Blot .67 

Pigeon Pie. “The Sketch-Book Lrving .... 71 

On Game. “Steven Lawrence, Yeoman:” Mrs . Annie 

Edwards .75 

The ’Possum: Arkansaw Traveller .77 

“Toss us up an Omelet.” “The Maid of Croissey:” 

Mrs . Gore .83 

Quotation from Essays: R . W . Emerson .... 87 

Description of Dairy. “Adam Bede George Eliot . . 89 

The Mushroom: Campbell .93 

Asparagus : Charles Lamb .96 

The Maize. “Hiawatha:” H . W . Longfellow ... 97 

Cabbage. “My Summer in a Garden:” C . D . Warner . 103 
The Onion. “My Summer in a Garden:” C . D . Warner 105 
Celery: John Burroughs .. . . ^ 











INDEX TO SELECTIONS. 


PAGE 

Extract from “Aunt Cindy’s Dinner:” Sarah Winter 

Kellogg .137 

Scene from “Mary Powell Mrs . Manning . . . 146 

Quotation from “Locusts and Wild Honey Burroughs 147 
Scene from “ Margaret Sylvester Judd . . . . 155 

Scene from “Margret Howth Mrs . R. H. Davis . . 157 

Frumenty. “ Essays of Elia Lamb .160 

An Apple Pudding. “We Girls Mrs . Whitney . . 163 

Apple Dumplings: Charles Lamb .196 

Strawberries: Dr . Boteler and John Btirrotighs . . . 171 

Blackberries: Charles Machay .172 

Pumpkin Pie. “Tile Pumpkin :”/. G . Whittier . . . 182 

Mince Pie. “ Legend of Sleepy Hollow : ” Irving . . 186 

The Party. “ Donald and Dorotliy : ” Mrs . Dodge . . 191 

Jessie’s Bargains : Mrs . II . P . Spofford .215 

Scene from “ My Precious Betsy : ” Morton . . . 223 

Poem on Herbs: Shenstone ....... 231 

Quotation from “The Culprit Fay J . R. Drake . . 233 





CHAPTER L 


SOUPS. 








UNIVERSAL COOKERY BOOK. 


SOUPS. 

“ Where is Sylvia?” cried Colonel King, in a harsh voice. His 
back was turned to the window. “ Sophy, why didn’t you look after 
her?” 

“There she is! ” cried Frank Lubworth. “ What can she be doing 
in the garden ? ” And, in answer to an imploring look of Mrs. King’s, 
he added, “ I will go after her : don’t you wait.” . . . 

“ It makes her father so nervous,” said Mrs. King plaintively, 
raising her voice. “ I can’t think what to do. It is just like her to go 
for a walk in the garden, when we are all waiting dinner. Now, Sophy 
never keeps us.” 

“ Don’t apologize,” said the old lady. “ Sylvia is quite pretty 
enough to keep us all waiting, and Sophy, who isn’t pretty, is punctual; 
so it is all as it should be. Clear soup ? ” “ Yes.” 

“My poor Sophy!” said the mother, who always seemed to take 
a melancholy view of every thing. “ It seems so hard that Sylvia 
should have all the beauty of the family. — (No soup?) I can’t take 
soup : it is a great privation to me. — Aunt Dormer ! If you, with all 
your experience, could suggest any means by which we could give her 
a little of her sisters’ good sense and thoughtfulness ” — 

“ Suggest?” said the old lady, peppering her soup, “ don’t ask me 
to suggest. Find her a good husband, my dear : a punctual man, who 
can remind her when dinner is ready. Let him have a little money 
to pay for it too.” — Riquet a la Houppe : Mrs. Anne Thackeray 
Kite hie. 


Brown Stock. 

“Take one pound of lean beef, shin, leg, ox-cheek, 
or from the clod; cut in slices, and place at the bot¬ 
tom of a greased saucepan, adding a little water to 
prevent its burning. Add a piece of lean bacon, cut 
in slices : a more or less quantity is immaterial, — 
from one-quarter to nearly the same amount of beef. 
Cover close to draw out the gravy gently, and then 




4 


VEAL STOCK. 


allow it nearly to dry until it becomes brown, then 
pour in sufficient boiling water to entirely cover the 
meat, skimming it frequently, and putting in salt, 
whole peppers, pot-herbs, and vegetables of any kind. 
After boiling gently for five or six hours, pour the 
broth from the meat, and let it stand during the 
night to cool. (Soup should never be suffered to 
stand in any vessel of tin, copper, or iron, to get 
cold.) In the morning take off the scum and fat, 
heat it, and put it away in a stone jar for future use. 
This will form a foundation for all the best brown 
soups.” 

Veal Stock. 

Chop up three slices of bacon and two pounds of 
the neck of veal; place in a stewpan with a pint 
of water or beef-stock, and simmer for half an hour; 
then add two quarts of stock, one onion, a carrot, a 
bouquet of herbs, four stalks of celery, half a tea¬ 
spoonful of bruised whole peppers, and a pinch of 
nutmeg with a teaspoonful of salt ; boil gently for 
two hours, removing the scum in the mean time. 
Strain into an earthen crock, and when cold remove 
the fat. A few bones of poultry added, with an addi¬ 
tional quantity of water or stock, will improve it. — 
Fifty Soups : Thomas J. Murrey. White, Stokes , & 
Allen, Pubs. 

Bouillon. 

Four pounds of beef from the middle of the round, 
two pounds bone, two quarts cold water, one table¬ 
spoonful salt, four peppercorns, four cloves, one table¬ 
spoonful mixed herbs. Wipe and cut the meat and 







ror-AU-FEU ; 


5 


bones into small pieces ; add the water, and heat 
slowly ; add the seasoning, and simmer five hours. 
Boil down to three pints ; strain, remove the fat, and 
season with salt and pepper. Serve in cups at lunch¬ 
eons, evening companies, etc. Boil one onion, half 
a carrot, and half a turnip, with it if you like. — The 
Boston Cook-Book : Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. Roberts 
Bivthers, Pnbs. {By per.) 

Pot-au-Feu. 

Put in a saucepan six pounds of beef (bones in¬ 
cluded), cut into two or three pieces; three-quarters 
of a pound cf mixed vegetables, such as onions, 
carrots, turnips, leeks, white cabbage, and celery with 
its leaves left on, all cut in good-sized pieces; three 
small spoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, and one of 
sugar; add eight pints of water ; let it boil gently 
three hours ; remove the fat; add crusts of roll or 
slices of bread, either previously toasted or plain, 
and serve. — Dainty Dishes: Lady Harriet St. Clair. 

Rabbit Soup. 

Cut one or two rabbits into joints ; lay them for an 
hour in cold water; dry and fry them in butter till 
about half done, with four or five onions and a 
middling-sized head of celery, cut small ; add to this 
three quarts of cold water, one pound of split peas, 
some pepper and salt; let it stew gently for four or 
five hours, then strain and serve it.— Peterson's 
Magazine. {By per. Eds.) 


v 


6 


EEL SOUP. 


Eel Soup. 

“ Put three pounds of small eels in two quarts of 
water, with a crust of bread, some mace, whole pep¬ 
per, sweet herbs, and an onion; cover them close, 
and stew till the fish is quite broken ; then strain it 
off, and serve with some toasted bread cut in slices. 
It may be thickened with a quarter of a pint of rich 
cream, and a teaspoonful of flour mixed in it, which 
is a great improvement.” 

A Marseilles Receipt for Bouillabaisse. 

Almost any sort of fish may be used in making 
bouillabaisse, and the more kinds the better. Those 
generally used, because caught in the Mediterranean, 
are whitings, red mullets, soles, gurnet, turbot, lob¬ 
sters, and crayfish. Slice two large onions, place 
them in a wide but deep stewpan made of thin 
metal ; add four or five spoonfuls of the best olive- 
oil. Fry the onions of a pale brown color. Next 
place the fish, previously washed and cut in small 
pieces, in the pan, and cover them with warm water, 
but not more than equals the depth of the contents ; 
add salt in moderation, half a bay-leaf, and the flesh 
of half a lemon without rind or pips, two tomatoes 
cut in dice and the seeds removed, a few pepper¬ 
corns, and four cloves of garlic. Set it on a very 
hot stove, and let it boil for twelve minutes. By 
this time the liquor should be reduced to a thkd of 
its original quantity; add a small pinch of saffron, a 
tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and allow it to 
boil a minute longer; taste, and correct the seasoiv 


OYSTER SOUP. 


7 


ing if required. Have ready youi tureen or deep 
dish with two dozen slices of ligh: French roll or 
bread, cut half an inch thick, laid in the bottom * 
pour some of the soup over, and turn the bread, so 
that it may be thoroughly soaked ; then pour in the 
remainder, keeping back the inferior parts of the 
fish, and serve very hot. — Dainty Dishes: Lady 
Liar vie t St. Clair. 

A street there is in Paris famous, 

For which no rhyme our language yields: 

Rue Neuve des Petits Champs its name is — 

The New Street of the Little Fields; 

And here’s an inn, not rich and splendid, 

But still in comfortable case, 

The which in youth I oft attended, 

To eat a bowl of Bouillabaisse. 

This Bouillabaisse a noble dish is — 

A sort of soup, or broth, or brew, 

Or hotchpotch of all sorts of fishes, 

That Greenwich never could outdo ; 

Green herbs, red peppers, mussels, saffron, 

Soles, onions, garlic, roach, and dace; 

All these you eat at Terra’s tavern, 

In that one dish of Bouillabaisse ! 

W. M. Thackeray . 

Oyster Soup. 

“ Take one quart of water, one pint of milk, one 
small teacup of butter, four crackers rolled fine, 
one teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of 
pepper. Bring to full boiling-heat as soon as possi¬ 
ble, then add one quart of oysters. Let the whole 
come to a boiling-heat quickly, and remove from the 
fire.” 

Mock Oyster Soup. 

“One-half pint tomatoes; three-quarters pint of 
boiling water; butter a quarter size of an egg; a 


8 


POTAGE A LA REEVE. 


quarter of a teaspoonful each soda, salt, and pepper; 
one pint sweet milk. 

“ Put the tomatoes and hot water over the fire, 
strain, and rub through colander. Meanwhile, boil 
the milk, stir in soda and butter, and after one 
boil keep hot (that is, not to let it more than come to 
the boil). Put pepper and salt with tomatoes, sim¬ 
mer five minutes, and then stir in the milk. Serve 
with crackers.” 

Potage a La Reine. 

(Queen Victoria's Favorite Soup.) 

Remove the fat from one quart of the water in 
which a chicken has been boiled. Season highly with 
salt, pepper, and celery-salt, and a little onion if de¬ 
sired, and put on to boil. Mash the yolks of three 
hard-boiled eggs fine, and mix them with half a cup of 
bread or cracker crumbs soaked until soft in a little 
milk. Chop the white meat of the chicken until fine 
like meal, and stir it into the egg and bread paste. 
Add one pint of hot cream slowly, and then rub 
all into the hot chicken liquor. Boil five minutes, 
add more salt if needed, and if too thick add more 
cream, or if not thick enough add more fine cracker- 
dust. It should be like a puree.— The Boston 
Cook-Book : Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. Roberts Brothers, 
Pubs. 

Okra or Gumbo Soup. 

Boil a chicken and a slice of ham in sufficient 
water to make a tureen of soup. When the fowl is 
thoroughly done, take it with the ham from th* 


CELERY SOUP. 


Q 


broth. Flavor the soup with onions, pepper, salt, 
and sweet herbs; make a paste with eggs and flour, 
roll it as thin as wafers, dry a little, then roll it as 
tightly as possible, and slice in thin shreds ; put in 
the soup a teacupful of this, a teacupful of chopped 
okra, and a pint of oysters. — Godey's Lady's Book. 
{By per. Pub) 

Celery Soup. 

Three pounds of veal, three bunches of celery, one 
gallon of water, one teacupful of cream, one table¬ 
spoonful of corn-starch; salt and pepper to taste. 
Put one-half of the celery in the water with the veal, 
and boil in a closely cohered pot for three hours, or 
until the meat is in pieces. Strain, and return to the 
pot, and add the remaining half of the celery. Sea¬ 
son, and boil twenty minutes longer. Just before 
taking off of the fire, add the cream, to which has 
been stirred a tablespoonful of corn-starch. Boil ten 
minutes longer, and serve with nicely-cut squares of 
fried toast. — The Kentucky Housekeeper: Mrs. 
Peter A. White. 

Pea Soup. 

Use half a pint, or seven ounces, of dried pease 
(cost three cents), for every two quarts of soup you 
want. Put them in three quarts of cold water, after 
washing them well; bring them slowly to a boil; add 
a bone, or a bit of ham, if you have it to spare, one 
turnip, and one carrot peeled, one onion stuck with 
three cloves (cost three cents), and simmer three 
hours, stirring occasionally to prevent burning; then 
pass the soup through a sieve with the aid of a 


IO 


CORN SOUP. 


potato-masher, and if it shows any sign of settling 
stir into it one tablespoonful each of butter and flour 
mixed together dry (cost two cents); this will pre¬ 
vent settling; meantime fry some dice of stale 
bread, about two slices, cut half an inch square, in 
hot fat, drain them on a sieve, and put them in the 
bottom of the soup-tureen in which the pea-soup is 
served ; or cut some bits of very hard stale bread, or 
dry toast, to use instead of the fried bread. By the 
time the soup is done, it will have boiled down to 
two quarts, and will be very thick and good. This 
receipt will cost you about ten cents. — Twenty- 
five-Cent Dinners : Miss Juliet Corson . {By per. O. 
Judd Co.y Pubs) 

Corn Soup. 

“To each quart of young corn cut from the cob, 
allow three pints of water. Boil until the grains are 
tender, and then add two ounces of butter that have 
been well mixed with one tablespoonful of flour. 
Let this boil for fifteen minutes longer. Just before 
serving, add one egg well beaten, and salt and pepper 
to taste.” 

A Delicious Soup. 

“ Peel and slice six large onions, six potatoes, six 
carrots, and four turnips ; fry them in half a pound 
of butter, and pour on them four quarts of boiling 
water. Toast a crust of bread as brown and hard as 
possible, but do not burn it, and put it in, with some 
celery, sweet herbs, white pepper, and salt. Stew it 
all gently for four hours, and then strain it through 
a coarse cloth. Have ready' thinly sliced carrot, 


CROUTONS . 


II 


celery, and a little turnip. Add them to your liking, 
and stew them tender in the soup. If approved of, 
a spoonful of tomato catsup may be added/’ 

Croutons, 

Or fried bread-crumbs for soups, are prepared in 
this way: Cut slices of stale home-made bread half 
an inch thick, trim off all crust, and cut each slice 
into squares ; fry these in very hot fat; drain them 
on a clean napkin, and add six or eight to each por¬ 
tion of soup. — Fifty Soups: Thomas J. Murrey. 
White, Stokes, & Allen, Pubs. 

Marrow Dumplings for Soups. 

Grate the crust of a breakfast roll, and break the 
remainder into crumbs ; soak these in cold milk; 
drain, and add two ounces of flour; chop up half a 
pound of beef-marrow freed from skin and sinews; 
beat up the yolks of five eggs; mix all together 
thoroughly, if too moist add some of the grated 
crumbs; salt and pepper to taste; form into small 
round dumplings; boil them in the soup for half 
an hour before serving. — Fifty Soups : Thomas J. 
Murrey. White, Stokes, & Allen, Pubs. 

Vermicelli Soup. 

To make vermicelli soup, take as much good stock 
as you require for your tureen ; strain, and set it on 
the fire, and when it boils put in the vermicelli. Let 
it simmer for half an hour by a slow fire, that the 
vermicelli may not break. The soup ought not to 


12 


NOODLES FOR SOUP. 




be very thick. Half a pound of vermicelli is suffi¬ 
cient for eight or ten persons. — Godey's Lady's 
Book. (By per. P?ib.) 

Noodles for Soup. 

Beat up one egg; add a pinch of salt, and flour 
enough to make a stiff dough ; roll out in a very thin 
sheet; dredge with flour to keep from sticking; then 
roll up tightly; begin at one end, and shave down 
fine like cabbage for slaw. — Presbyterian Cook 
Book, Dayton , O. (By per.) 







CHAPTER II. 


FISH AND SHELL-FISH. 



I 




i 


FISH AND SHELL-FISH. 

We break from the tree-groups, a glade deep with grass; 
The white clover’s breath loads the sense as we pass. 

A sparkle — a streak — a broad glitter is seen, 

The bright Callikoon through its thickets of green! 

We rush to the banks — its sweet music we hear; 

Its gush, dash, and gurgle, all blent to the ear. 

No shadows are drawn by the cloud-covered sun. 

We plunge in the crystal, our sport is begun. 

Our line, where that ripple shoots onward we throw; 

It sweeps to the foam-spangled eddy below. 

A tremor — a pull — the trout upward is thrown. 

He swings to our basket — the prize is our own ! 

Street. 


To Fry Trout. 

For those who love the real taste of this excellent 
fish, there is no better way of dressing them than 
plain frying. It gives a crispness to the flesh, and 
leaves its high flavor entire. Cut and clean the 
trout, wash them, dry them perfectly with napkins; 
cut the sides and back slightly with a very fine 
knife, strew a little salt over them, and then dredge 
them with flour; set on a pan with some clarified 
butter, and when it is hot lay in the trout; fry them 
to a delicate brown, and send them up in a napkin, 
garnished with fried parsley.— Virginia Cookery- 
Book : Mrs. Mary Stuart Smith. Harper & Brothers , 
Pubs. (By per.) 

Green Turtle Steak, Epicurean. 

Raw turtle steaks may be had at any first-class 
restaurant, and occasionally at the fish-stands. It is 


*5 



16 


BOILED BASS. 


not advantageous for small families to purchase 
whole turtles, or rather tortoises, for soup and 
steaks. Trim away the thigh-bone, and flatten the 
meat in the form of a steak. Melt two ounces of 
butter in a chafing-dish ; when very hot, add a tea¬ 
spoonful of Worcestershire sauce, a tablespoonful of 
currant-jelly, a gill of port wine, and a little salt. 
Stew the steak in this until tender, and serve from 
the chafing-dish.— The Book of Entrees: Thomas 
J. Murrey. White , Stokes , & Allen , Pubs. 

Boiled Bass. 

Clean and wash the fish, but do not split it or re¬ 
move the head and tail. Sew up in a piece of mos¬ 
quito-netting fitted to the shape of the fish. Have 
in the fish-kettle plenty of boiling water, in which 
have been mixed a few tablespoonfuls of vinegar, a 
dozen peppercorns, two or three blades of mace, and 
a tablespoonful of salt. Cook ten minutes for each 
pound, and ten minutes over. Undo the cloth, lay 
the fish on a hot dish, and pour over it a cup of 
drawn butter seasoned with a tablespoonful of ca¬ 
pers and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs chopped 
fine. Pass mashed potatoes with it. — Marion Har- 
land. The Post, Washington, D.C. (By per) 

Roast Sturgeon. 

Rub the bottom of the saucepan with a clove of 
garlic. Put into it a good bit of butter or clarified 
fat, a pinch of flour, salt and pepper, a chopped 
onion, and any herb you like the flavor of. Add a 


SALMON BROILED. 


1 7 

half pint of cold water and a gill of vinegar; let it 
cook all together, stirring it with a wooden spoon. 
As soon as it is all blended, take it from the fire, 
and when it is lukewarm put in the thick slices of 
sturgeon, which you have previously trimmed and 
cleaned. Let them lie in this sauce for three hours, 
turning them over now and then. Take from the 
sauce, drain, and roast on a spit before a slow fire, 
basting them continually with the sauce. This is 
the roast fish of the Italian monasteries. It must 
be served on a very hot dish. — Public Ledger , 
Philadelphia. (By per. Editor of The Household) 

\ y - 

Salmon Broiled. 

** % 

Cut the fish in slices from the best part; each 
slice should be an inch thick; season well with pep¬ 
per and salt; wrap each slice in white paper which 
has been buttered with fresh butter; fasten each end 
by twisting or tying ; broil over a very clear fire 
eight minutes. A coke fire, if kept clear and bright, 
is best. Serve with butter or tomato - sauce.— 
American Home Cook-Book. Dick & Fitzgerald , 
Pubs. {By per) 

Salmon Croquettes. 

One pound cooked salmon, or about one and one- 
half pints when chopped, one cup of cream, two 
tablespoonfuls butter, one of flour, three eggs, one 
pint crumbs, pepper, and salt. 

This recipe is for cold boiled salmon. A pound 
can of salmon will not hold the same bulk, as there 
is always some liquor which must be drained off; so, 



1 8 FILLETS OF HALIBUT A LA POULETTE . 


if canned salmon is used, the cream and other ingre¬ 
dients must be graded in proportion to the bulk of 
salmon used. Be sure to remove all bits of bone and 
skin, and then chop the fish. 

Add the flour to the butter, and mix thoroughly 
together. Put the cream into a saucepan, let it 
come to a boil, and stir in the flour and butter, then 
the salmon and seasoning. Boil for one minute. 
Stir into it one well-beaten egg, and remove from 
the fire. Then set the mixture, which will be quite 
thin, away on the ice to get perfectly cold. Then 
shape into croquettes, as with other mixtures, and 
fry. 

Croquettes of any sort are much better if allowed 
to stand, after being made and shaped, until thor¬ 
oughly chilled. And when they are put into the fry¬ 
ing basket, be careful to let none of them touch each 
other. — Mrs. Daniell: (No. 5) Boston Cooking School. 
From The Globe, Boston , Mass . (By per.) 

Fillets of Halibut a la Poulette. 

Take three pounds of sliced halibut, one-half cup¬ 
ful butter, two large onions, juice of one lemon, 
three hard-boiled eggs, salt and pepper. 

If you buy halibut in a whole piece, pour boiling 
water over it, and you can then skin it easily. Free 
the fish from skin and bone, and cut into slices one- 
half inch thick. Cut these into strips about three 
inches long and two inches wide. Lay on a platter, 
and sprinkle with lemon-juice, salt, and pepper, and 
lay a thin slice of onion on each strip. The lemon- 
juice had been squeezed out, and was all ready in a 


FRIED FLOUNDERS. 


19 


cup. If you have to let lemon-juice stand for any 
length of time, said Mrs. Daniell, be sure you leave 
no seeds in it, as they will make it bitter. Cover the 
fish as prepared above, and set away for half an hour. 

After the fish has set for half an hour, remove the 
slices of onion. Have a cup of butter melted in a 
soup-plate; dip the strips into the butter, roll them 
up and pin with a little wooden toothpick or skewer; 
dip in the butter again, and place on a tin pan, and 
dredge thickly with flour. Bake for twenty minutes 
in a hot oven. Cut the whites of the eggs into rings, 
and rub the yolks through a sieve to a fine powder. 
When the fish is cooked, spread the rolls upon a hot 
dish, remove the little skewers, pour whip sauce 
around the fish, scatter the grated yolks over it, and 
use the whites as a garnish. (Very nice indeed.) — 
Mrs. Daniell: (No. 5) Boston Cooking School. From 
Boston Globe. 

Fried Flounders. 

Clean the fish, dry them in a cloth, sprinkle with 
salt, and dredge them well with flour. Put them in 
hot fat, and fry brown, turning them carefully, so as 
not to break the fish. — American Home Cook- 
Book. 

Broiled Mackerel. 

“ Prepare, by boiling a short time, a little fennel, 
parsley, and mint. When done, chop all together 
fine; mix a piece of butter with it, a dust of flour, 
pepper, and salt. Cut the fish down the back, and 
fill it with this stuffing. Oil the gridiron, and oil the 
fish. Broil over a clear, -slow fire.” 


20 


FRIED WHITE FISH, FRESH. 


Fried Whitefish, Fresh. 

Hash, and drain well; dredge thickly with flour, 
and season with salt and pepper. Put on in a skillet 
containing sufficient boiling hot sweet lard; cover, 
and fry slowly. When a nice brown on one side, 
turn over, and cook until done. — Miss Lizzie 
Strohm. 

Scalloped Fish. 

Any cold fresh fish, or cold boiled salt codfish, 
must be pulled into fine flakes, carefully taking out 
skin and bones and dark parts; mix in a bowl with 
equal quantity of bread or cracker crumbs ; season 
with salt, pepper, celery-salt, a little nutmeg, a very 
little juice squeezed from a cut onion, and a very 
little red pepper if preferred; moisten the mixture 
well with a gravy made of melted butter, flour, and 
hot water; put into a baking-dish, cover with dry 
crumbs and thickly strewn bits, of butter; bake till 
brown. This is a pretty dish for supper, baked in 
small tin or earthen shells, or in the great sea-clam 
shells found on the ocean shore, or in the blue crock¬ 
ery dishes that are sold for such purposes. Serve 
very hot.— Mrs. Rose Terry Cooke. {By per. Pub. of 
Good Housekeeping.) 

Fish Jelly. 

Take a two-pound haddock, one onion, and half 
rind lemon; just cover with water, and boil; remove 
all the bones and skin ; flake the fish, or pound it in a 
mortar, with a tablespoonful of butter, pepper and 
salt to taste. Put back the bones, reduce the liquor 
io one pint, add a quarter of a packet of gelatine 


TO MAKE A GOOD FORCEMEAT. 


21 


(previously dissolved in a quarter of a tumbler of 
cold water). Make some veal forcemeat, without 
suet, roll in small balls, and drop into boiling water; 
they will cook in seven minutes. Decorate a mould 
with the balls and rings of lemon, mix the strained 
liquor with the pounded fish, and, when nearly cold, 
pour into the mould. Hard-boiled eggs may be 
added. Cod or any remains of cold fish can be made 
over in this way. 

To Make a Good Forcemeat. 

Chop a slice of lean veal and a slice of boiled ham 
together, add a bay-leaf crumbled fine, a little sweet 

basil. — Public Ledger , Philadelphia. 

% 

Stewed Eels. 

“ Boil them in a small quantity of water, with some 
parsley, which should be served up with them and 
the liquor. Chopped parsley and butter for sauce.” 

Fried Eels. 

Clean and skin the eels. If large, cut them into 
pieces; if small, skewer them round, and fry them 
whole. First dust them over with flour, then rub 
them with the yolk of an egg, and sprinkle them 
with bread-crumbs. Put them in boiling lard, and 
fry until nicely browned. — Peterson’s Magazine. 
(By peri) 

Oyster Patties. 

Cover small shells or patty-pans with a nice puff 
paste ; bake them well; when done, turn them out 
cn a plate; stew oysters, season them to suit the 


22 OYSTERS FRIED TO THE QUEEN'S TASTE. 

taste, thicken their juice with egg, and when cold, 
fill the patties with the oysters. 

Oysters Fried to the Queen’s Taste. 

Small ones are just as toothsome for grilling, but 
large, plump specimens present a better appearance. 
Keep if possible a soapstone griddle expressly for 
cooking them, and let it heat slowly on the back of 
the range at least an hour before needed. The 
oysters cannot be drained too long or too well, 
for one of the secrets of success is to have them 
perfectly dry. Ten hours is not too long to let 
them stand in the colander; first place them under 
a stream of water for three or four minutes to wash 
off all impurities, wipe lightly afterward with a thin 
cloth, and place in the ice-chest until wanted ; 
but if desired unexpectedly, sop between towels, 
lightly patting out the moisture until dry. When 
ready to cook them, move the griddle to a hot part 
of the stove, and grease it very slightly with fresh 
butter; lay on the oysters close together, but not 
crowding; and as fast as browned nicely, turn them 
with a spoon, not using a fork, for the piercing lets 
out the liquor. When done, serve in a very hot dish 
with a trifle of melted butter. If a griddle cannot 
be procured, a skillet or frying-pan will answer, and 
they can either be well shaken all the time, or turned 
with a spoon. —- Harper *s Bazar. (By per. Harper & 
Brothers .) 

Scalloped Oysters. 

One pint of oysters (washed), the shells removed, 
and then drained; one-third of a cup of melted 


BROILED OYSTERS. 


23 


butter, one cup of fine cracker-crumbs moistened 
in the melted butter; butter a shallow dish, put in 
a layer of crumbs, then a layer of oysters, season 
with salt and pepper, and so on, having a thick layer 
of crumbs on top; bake in a hot oven twenty min¬ 
utes, or until the cracker is brown. To prepare a 
larger dish with the same quantity of oysters, heat 
the oyster-liquor and the butter with an equal quan¬ 
tity of milk, and use more cracker; moisten each 
layer with the hot liquid; reserve the larger part 
of the butter for the top layer of crumbs. — Com¬ 
mercial Gazette , Cincinnati , O. (By peri) 

Broiled Oysters. 

Take the largest and finest oysters. See that 
your gridiron is very clean. Rub the bars with 
fresh butter, and set it over a clear steady fire, en¬ 
tirely clear from smoke, or on a bed of bright hot 
wood coals. Place the oysters on the gridiron, and 
when done on one side, take a fork, and turn them on 
the other, being careful not to let them burn. Put 
some fresh butter in the bottom of a dish. Lay the 
oysters on it, and season them slightly with pepper. 
Send them to table hot. — American Home Cook- 
Book. (By per. Dick & Fitzgerald.) 

To Boil Hard-shelled Clams. 

“Wash the shells very clean, put them in a pot 
with as little water as will keep the pot from burn¬ 
ing, with their edges down, and boil constantly. 
When the shells open, they are done; remove them, 
have ready nice butter toast, and pour the clams on 


24 


CLAM CHOWDER. 


the toast, with as much of the juice as the toast will 
absorb; add pepper if desired.” 

Clam Chowder. 

“ Put in a pot a layer of sliced pork, chopped 
potatoes, chopped clams, salt, pepper, and lumps of 
butter, and broken crackers soaked in milk; cover 
with the clam-juice and water, and stew slowly for 
three hours ; thicken with a little flour; it may be 
seasoned with spices if preferred.” 

Clam Scallops. 

Chop fifty clams fine, and drain off in a colander 
all the liquor that will come away. Mix this in a 
bowl with a cupful of crushed cracker, half a cupful 
of milk, two beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of melted 
butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of mace 
and the same of cayenne-pepper. Beat into this 
the chopped clams, and fill with the mixture clam¬ 
shells, or the silver or stone-china shell-shaped dishes 
sold for this purpose. Bake to a light brown in a 
quick oven, and serve in the shells. Send around 
sliced lemon with them. — Marion Harland. The 
Post , Washington , D.C. 

Stewed Terrapin. 

Of the numerous ways and styles of preparing 
terrapin, I prefer this one. Select two six-and-a- 
half to seven inch terrapins ; plunge them in boiling 
water for five minutes ; take them out, and when 
cool, rub off the skin found on the legs and neck; 


LOBSTER CHOWDER. 


25 


remove the under-shell carefully; next, remove the 
liver; cut off the gall-bag from it, and throw it away, 
for the bursting of the bag would spoil the whole 
dish. The other parts to be rejected are the claws, 
head, and sand-bag ; the remainder should be cut into 
neat-sized pieces. Put these in a stewpan or chaf¬ 
ing-dish, and stew long enough to become tender — 
about one-half to three quarters of an hour. Now 
put in a chafing-dish a pat of butter rolled in a little 
flour, a dash of cayenne, a gill of sherry, two drops 
of soy, and a saltspoonful of salt. When hot beat 
it with a fork, and add the terrapin, and eggs if there 
are any. The creamy sauce so universally met with 
consists of a combination of cream, butter, and eggs, 
which is very nice for those who like that sort of 

thing. — The Book of Entrees : Thomas J. Murrey. 

* 

White , Stokes , & Allen , Pubs. 

Lobster Chowder. 

Meat of one fine lobster, picked out from the 
shell and cut into bits, one quart of milk, six Boston 
crackers split and buttered, one even teaspoonful of 
salt, one scant quarter-teaspoonful of cayenne, two 
tablespoonfuls of butter rolled in one of prepared 
flour, a pinch of soda in the milk. Scald the milk, 
and stir in seasoning, butter, and flour, cook one 
minute, add the lobster, and simmer five minutes. 
Line a tureen with the toasted and buttered crackers, 
dipping each quickly in boiling water before putting 
it in place, and pour in the chowder. Send around 
sliced lemon with it. — Marion Harland. The Post, 
Washington, D.C. {By per) 


2 6 


LOBSTER SAUCE. 


Lobster Sauce. 

One small lobster, four tablespoonfuls of butter, 
two of flour, one-fifth of a teaspoonful of cayenne, 
two tablespoonfuls of lemon-juice, one pint of boiling 
water. Cut the meat into dice. Pound the “coral ” 
with one tablespoonful of the butter. Rub the flour 
and the remainder of the butter to a smooth paste. 
Add the water, pounded “coral,” and butter, and the 
seasoning. Simmer five minutes, and then strain on 
the lobster. Boil up once, and serve. This sauce is 
for all kinds of boiled fish. — New Cook-Book : Miss 
Maria Parloa. Estes & Lauriat , Pubs. (By per.) 


CHAPTER III 


BEEF, VEAL, LAMB, AND MUTTON. 




BEEF, VEAL, LAMB, AND MUTTON. 


“ Tell me, dearest husband,” Kitty said, 

“ Before you go, I pray, 

How shall I get the meat and bread 
For our noon meal to-day ? ” 

“ Buy them with smiles,” the husband cried; 

“ But that won’t pay,” says she. 

“ Then take this kiss,” her lord replied, 

And to his shop went he. 

The noontime came, and he came too; 

And the dinner was prepared. 

A tender steak was in full view, 

“ Quite splendid,” he declared. 

He said he wished to have such meat 
Three times a day in future; 

“ But tell me, love, for this great treat 
What did you pay the butcher ? ” 

“ W hat did I pay ? I paid the kiss—• 

’Twas all you left, you know.” 

“ A-a-11 right,” said he ; “ but, after this, 

Take money when you go.” 

Kisses at Market: Anw . 


French Beefsteak. 

“ Cut the steak two-thirds of an inch thick from a 
fillet of beef; dip into melted fresh butter, lay them 
on a heated gridiron, and broil over hot coals. When 
nearly done, sprinkle pepper and salt. Have ready 
some parsley chopped fine, and mixed with softened 
butter. Beat them together to a cream, and pour 
into the middle of the dish. Dip each steak into the 
butter, turning them over, and lay them round on the 


29 



30 


A SPANISH STB AN. 


platter. If liked, squeeze a few drops of lemon over, 
and serve very hot.” 

A Spanish Steak. 

“ Take the tenderloin of beef. Have onions cut 
fine, and put into a frying-pan with some boiling but¬ 
ter. When quite soft, draw them to the back part of 
the pan, and, having seasoned well the beef with pep¬ 
per and salt, put it in the pan, and rather broil than 
fry it. When done, put the onions over it, and just as 
much boiling water as will make a gravy. Let it stew 
a few minutes.” 

Roast Beef. 

Prepare for the oven by dredging lightly with flour, 
and seasoning with salt and pepper ; place in the oven, 
and baste frequently while roasting. Allow a quarter 
of an hour for a pound of meat, if you like it rare; 
longer, if you like it well done. Serve with a sauce 
made from the drippings in the pan, to which have 
been added a tablespoonful of Harvey or Worcester¬ 
shire sauce and a tablespoonful of tomato catsup. — 
Every-day Cook-Book: Miss Neill. (By per. Belford , 
Clarke , & Co.) 

Fried Beefsteaks. 

Place the steak in a pan in which is an ounce 
of hot butter or fat. Fry ten or twelve minutes, 
turning on each side three times, and watching 
that the meat does not burn. Season with salt and 
pepper. After removing the meat, a gravy may be 
made by adding a little water, and thickening with 
flour rubbed smooth in water.— Arthur's Home 
Magazine. (By per.) 




BEEF A LA MODE . 


31 


Beef a la Mode. 

Take three pounds of fresh beef, trim off the fat; 
cut half a pound of bacon into long, slender strips, 
and lard the beef with it. Mix a few cloves, mace, 
allspice, peppers, cayenne, tablespoonful of powdered 
thyme, and two cloves of garlic, with half a pint of 
malt vinegar. Put the meat into an earthen crock, 
with a thin slice of bacon under it, add the seasoning 
and a pint of soup-stock, cover the crock, and simmer 
six hours. When preferred, vegetables may be added, 
but it is more satisfactory to cook them separately. — 
The Book of Entrees: Thomas J. Murrey. White, 
Stokes, & Allen, Pubs. 

Beef Stew or Hash. 

“Take a pound of cold boiled beef, and slice into 
small bits. Put on to stew with six or eight medium¬ 
sized potatoes and three large onions peeled and cut 
into small pieces. Have sufficient water, that, when 
done, it will be rather juicy than dry. Season with 
salt and pepper, and add a little butter, if the meat 
does not make it rich enough.” This is a plain but 
savory stew. 

Beefsteak Pie. 

A good common paste for meat pies, and which is 
intended to be eaten, is made as follows: Three 
ounces of butter and one pound of flour will be suffi¬ 
cient for one dish. Rub the butter well amongst 
the flour so as to incorporate them thoroughly. If 
the butter be fresh, add a little salt. Mix up the 
flour and butter with as much cold water as will 


32 


BEEFSTEAK PIE . 


make a thick paste. Knead it quickly on a board, 
and roll it out flat with a rolling-pin. Turn the dish 
upside down upon the flattened paste, and cut or 
shape out the piece required for the cover. Roll out 
the parings, and cut them into strips. Wet the edges 
of the dish, and place these strips neatly round on 
the edges as a foundation for the cover. Then take 
some slices of tender beef mixed with fat; those 
from the rump are the best. Season them with pep¬ 
per and salt, and roll each slice up in a small bundle, 
or lay them flat in the dish. Put in a little gravy or 
cold water, and a little fl'our for thickening. Then, 
after putting in the meat, lay the cover on the dish, 
pressing down the edges closely to keep all tight. 
If any paste remain, cut or stamp it into ornaments, 
such as leaves, and place these as a decoration on 
the cover. 

On taking pies from the oven, and while quite hot, 
the crust may be glazed with white of egg and water 
beaten together, or sugar and water laid on with a 
brush.— American Home Cook-Book. [By per. 
Dick & Fitzgerald , Pubs.) 

Such a busy little woman as she was ! So full of self-importance, 
and trying so hard not to smile or seem uncertain about any thing. 
It was a perfect treat to Tom to see her with her brows knit, and her 
rosy lips pursed up, kneading away at the crust, rolling it out, cutting 
•it up into strips, lining the basin with it, shaving it off fine round the 
rim; chopping up the steak into small pieces, raining down pepper 
and salt upon them, packing them into the basin, pouring in cold 
water for gravy; and never venturing to steal a look in his direction, 
lest her gravity should be disturbed; until at last, the basin being 
quite full and only wanting the top crust, she clapped her hands, all 
covered with paste and flour, at Tom, and burst out heartily into such 
a charming little laugh of triumph, that the pudding need have had 
no other seasoning to commend it to the taste of any reasonable man 
on earth. — Martin Chuzzlewit : Charles Dickens. 


YORKSHIRE PUDDING WITH ROAST BEEF. 33 


Yorkshire Pudding with Roast Beef. 

“Five tablespoonfuls of flour mixed with one of 
salt, one pint of milk, and three well-beaten eggs. 
Butter a square pan, and put the batter in it; set it 
in the oven until it rises and is slightly crusted on 
the top; then place it under your beef roasting be¬ 
fore the fire, or in the oven, and baste it as you do 
your meat. In serving, cut it in squares, and lay 
around the meat in the dish.” 

Beef Loaf. 

Chop very fine, or have your butcher mince, two 
pounds of coarse, lean beef. Season spicily with 
pepper, salt, nutmeg, summer savory or sweet mar¬ 
joram, and a cautious sprinkling of minced onion. 
Beat two eggs light, and work up with the mass. 
Press hard into a bowl; fit a saucer or plate (inverted) 
upon the meat, and set in a dripping-pan of boiling 
water to cook slowly for an hour and a quarter. Lay 
a weight on the surface when it is done, and let it 
get perfectly cold before turning out. Cut in per¬ 
pendicular slices. — Marion Harland. The Post, 
Washington, D.C. (By per) 

Frizzled Dried Beef. 

Cut your beef very thin, then pull it into small 
pieces, taking out all the strings of sinew, fat, and 
bits of outside; put it in a frying-pan, and cover with 
cold water ; let it simmer on the back of the stove 
till perfectly tender; then pour off the water, and 
cover the beef with cream, add pepper, celery-salt, 


34 


TO BOIL TONGUE. 


and salt if needed; mix one tablespoonful of melted 
butter with one heaped tablespoon of flour, and stir 
into the hot cream ; cover, and keep very hot till 
served. — Mrs. Rose Terry Cooke. {By per. Pub. of 
Good Housekeeping.) 

To Boil Tongue. 

“ A tongue is so hard, whether prepared by drying 
or pickling, that it requires much more cooking than 
a ham : nothing of its weight takes so long to dress 
properly. 

“ A tongue that has been salted and dried should 
be put to soak (if it is old and very hard, twenty-four 
hours before it is wanted) in plenty of water; one 
fresh from the pickle requires soaking only a few 
hours. Put the tongue into plenty of cold water, 
with a bunch of savory herbs, let it be an hour 
gradually warming, and give it from three and a half 
to four hours very slow simmering, according to the 
size. 

“When you choose a tongue, endeavor to learn 
how long it has been dried or pickled ; pick out the 
plumpest and that which has the smoothest skin, 
which denotes its being young and tender.” 

Ragout of Liver. 

Heat three or four spoonfuls of nice dripping in a 
frying-pan; add an onion sliced, a tablespoonful of 
chopped parsley, and thrice as much minced breakfast- 
bacon ; when all are hissing hot, lay in the liver cut in 
pieces as long and wide as your middle finger, and fry 
brown, turning often ; take out the liver, and keep 



VEAL SWEETBREAD. 


35 


warm in a covered hot-water dish; strain the gravy, 
rinse out the frying-pan, and return to the fire with 
the gravy and an even tablespoonful of butter worked 
up well in two of browned flour. Stir until you have 
a smooth browned roux ; thin gradually with half a 
cupful of boiling water and the juice of half a lemon, 
add a teaspoonful of minced pickle and a scant half¬ 
teaspoonful of curry-powder wet with cold water. 
Boil sharply, pour over the liver ; put fresh boiling 
water in the pan under the dish, and let all stand 
closely covered for ten minutes before serving. — 
Marion Harland. The Post , Washington , D. C. 

Veal Sweetbread. 

“Trim a fine sweetbread; parboil it for five min¬ 
utes, and throw it into a basin of cold water. When 
the sweetbread is cold, dry it thoroughly in a cloth ; 
run a skewer through it; egg it with a paste-brush, 
powder it well with bread-crumbs, and roast it.” 

Fricandeau a l’Oseille. 

Procure a piece of veal cut from the leg, and about 
one inch and a half in thickness ; the small round 
bone in the middle may be either left or removed. 
Lard it well with salt pork; put into a bake-pan one 
ounce of salt pork to two pounds of veal, two or three 
slices of onion, as many of carrot, as many sprigs of 
parsley, and half a bay-leaf; lay the veal over the 
whole ; add just broth enough to cover the bottom 
of the pan, and a little salt; set in the oven, and 
baste now and then. If the juice is absorbed, and 
there is not enough to baste, add a little more broth. 


36 purPe d'oseille (pur£e of sorrel). 

Bear in mind that veal must always be overdone. 
Serve on a puree of sorrel. —Pierre Blot. 

Puree d’Oseille (Puree of Sorrel). 

Throw the sorrel, when cleaned and washed, into 
boiling water ; at the first boiling, and as soon as 
tender, turn into a colander; press it to extract the 
water, and then chop it. Put it in a saucepan on the 
[ire, with a piece of butter, and stir for five minutes; 
jl dd a little broth; stir another five minutes, spread 
it around a dish, place the veal in the middle, pour 
the gravy all over it, and serve. —Pierre Blot. 

Stewed Veal. 

“ Cut the veal in small bits, stew in a little water 
with butter, pepper, and salt, until tender; thicken 
with a little flour.” 

Braised Veal. 

Chop a half pound of fat salt pork fine, and put 
half of it in the bottom of a broad pot; sprinkle it 
with minced onion, sweet herbs, and a teaspoonful of 
chopped carrot. Lay a breast of veal on this bed, 
and cover it with a similar layer. Pour in carefully 
a quart of weak broth, if you have it; if not, cold 
water; season with pepper and salt. Fit a tight lid 
on the pot, and set where it will cook slowly — very 
slowly — for two hours at least. Now take up the 
meat, rub butter all over it, and dredge thickly with 
browned flour. Put it into a dripping-pan; strain 
the gravy from the pot into tins, not pouring it on 


VEAL AND RICE. 


3 7 


the meat, and bake half an hour in a good oven, 
basting every five minutes with the gravy. Transfer 
the veal to a hot dish; thicken the gravy in the 
pan with browned flour wet with cold water, boil up, 
and serve in a boat. — Marion Harland. The Post , 
Washington , D.C. 

~ Veal and Rice. 

Put the scrag end of a neck of veal, which you can 
usually buy for ten cents, into a pot half full of boil¬ 
ing water, with a half tablespoonful of salt, and half 
a pound of bacon or salt pork (cost six cents), half a 
pound of rice (cost five cents), and an onion stuck 
with six cloves; boil it gently for three hours, and 
then serve it hot; put the meat in the middle of the 
platter, and the rice laid around it. — Twenty-five- 
Cent Dinners : Miss Juliet Corson. (By per.) 

Mutton au Chou. 

Bake a leg or a breast of mutton in the oven, bast¬ 
ing it well, and half an hour before it is done put in 
the pan a cabbage, chopped fine as for cold slaw. 
The cabbage will cook in the rich gravy, and the 
basting must be continued so as to give the gravy all 
possible taste of the osmazome of the meat, — the 
browned crust that gives the flavor and pleasant odor 
in all roasting or baking meats.— Philadelphia Ledger. 
(By per) 

Mutton Steaks. 

“ They should be broiled over a clear fire, seasoned 
when half done, and often turned. Take them up 


38 STEWED SHOULDER OE MUTTON. 

into a very hot dish, rub a little butter over them, and 
serve quite hot.” 

Stewed Shoulder of Mutton. 

“ Select a shoulder of mutton that is not too fat; 
bone it, tie in a cloth, and boil it for two hours and 
a half. Take it up, put a little cold butter over it, 
and then strew thickly with bread-crumbs and pars¬ 
ley, with pepper and salt, all properly mixed; and 
let it remain in the oven half an hour to be perfectly 
browned.” 

A man may feel thankful, heartily thankful, over a dish of plain 
mutton with turnips. — Grace before Meat: Charles Lamb. 


Irish Stew. 

Cut a neck of mutton in pieces, blanch the chops 
in water, take and put them into another stewpan 
with four onions cut in slices; put to it a little stock; 
let it boil a quarter of an hour; have ready some 
potatoes pared ; put them into the stewpan with the 
mutton, with salt and pepper. As some like the pota¬ 
toes whole, and some mashed, to thicken the stew, 
you must boil them accordingly. Dish the meat 
round, and the vegetables in the middle .—Arthur s 
Home Magazine. 

Breast of Lamb, with Peas. 

This part of the lamb is always cheaper than other 
portions, and not only has this to recommend it, but 
is readily adaptable to many delicate and palate-pleas¬ 
ing dishes, one of which is the following: Trim off 


LAMB CHOPS'. 


39 


the skin and part of the fat from the breast of a spring 
lamb ; cut the meat into squares or triangular pieces ; 
dredge in flour; put them into a stewpan with a 
small quantity of butter and herb seasonings; toss 
them about, and brown them nicely; add a pint of 
soup-stock to each pound of meat; simmer until ten¬ 
der, and skim off all surplus fat. Just before serving, 
add half a can of French peas, pour out on a hot dish, 
garnish with large croutons , and serve. The tops of 
asparagus, French beans, etc., may be used instead 
of peas. — The Book of Entrees : Thomas J. 
Murrey. White, Stokes, & Allen, Pubs. 

Lamb Chops. 

Fry them a light brown, in butter, then add a little 
water, flour, salt, and a dust of pepper, to the gravy; 
let it brown, and pour it over the chops.— From 
Peterson s Magazine. (By per.) 

To Roast Lamb. 

The hind-quarter of lamb usually weighs from 
seven to ten pounds; this size will take about two 
hours to roast it. Have a brisk fire. It must be 
very frequently basted while roasting, and sprinkled 
with a little salt, and dredged all over with flour, 
about half an hour before it is done. 

All joints of roast lamb may be garnished with 
double parsley, and served up with either asparagus 
and new potatoes, spring spinach and new potatoes, 
green peas and new potatoes, or with cauliflowers 
or French beans and potatoes ; and never forget to 
send up mint sauce. The following will be found an 


40 


TO TOAST LAMB. 


excellent receipt for mint sauce : With three heaped 
tablespoonfuls of finely chopped young mint, mix 
two of pounded and sifted sugar, and six of the best 
vinegar; stir it until the sugar is dissolved. — Godey's 
Lady's Book. (Byper) 


* 


CHAPTER IV. 


PORK. 








PORK. 


Of all the delicacies in the whole tnundus edibilis , I will maintain 
it to be the most delicate — princeps obsoniorum. . . , There is no 
flavor comparable, I will contend, to that of the crisp, tawny, well- 
watched, not over-roasted, crackling , as it is well called, — the very 
teeth are invited to their share of the pleasure at this banquet in over¬ 
coming the coy, brittle resistance, — with the adhesive oleaginous — 
oh, call it not fat, but an indefinable sweetness growing up to it; 
the tender blossoming of fat; fat cropped in the bud, taken in the 
shoot, in the first innocence; the cream and quintessence of the 
child-pig’s yet pure food; the lean, no lean, but a kind of animal 
manna; or rather, fat and lean (if it must be so) so blended and run¬ 
ning into each other, that both together make but one ambrosial result, 
or common substance.— A Dissertation upon Roast Pig: Charles 
Lamb. 


Roast Pig. 

Soak in milk some light bread; boil some sage and 
onions in plenty of water, strain it off, and chop it 
very fine; press the milk from the bread, and then 
mix the sage and onion with pepper and salt; in the 
bread put the yolk of an egg to bind it a little; put 
this in the inside of the pig; rub the pig over with 
milk and butter, paper it, roast it a beautiful brown. 
Cut off the head before it is drawn from the spit, and 
likewise cut it down the back, and then you will not 
break the skin : take out the spit, cut off the ears 
from the head, and crack the bone, and take out the 
brains; put them in a stewpan with all the inside 
stuffing and a little brown sauce; dish the pig, the 
back outside, and put the sauce in the middle and 
some in a boat, the ears at each end. —American 
Home Cook-Book. Dick & Fitzgerald , Pubs. (. By 
per) 


43 



44 


SPARE-RIB. 


Spare-Rib. 

A spare-rib will take two hours and a half to roast; 
if very large, three hours. If not already salted, 
sprinkle with some, and while roasting baste with 
butter and dredge with flour ; about twenty minutes 
before it is done, sift a little powdered sage over it. — 
Arthur's Home Magazine. 

Pork Steaks. 

“ Cut them from a loin or neck, not too thick, pep¬ 
per and broil them, turning often ; when nearly done, 
add salt, rub a piece of butter over, and serve hot.” 

Tenderloin on Toast. 

“ Cut pork tenderloins in very thin slices; stew 
them in a little water till they are nearly done ; then 
put a little butter in a saucepan, and fry them till light 
brown. Serve on buttered toast and raw tomatoes 
sliced thin.” 

Pork Fritters. 

Have at hand a thick batter of Indian meal and 
flour; cut a few slices of pork, and fry them in the 
frying-pan until the fat is fried out; cut a few more 
slices of the pork, dip them in the batter, and drop 
them in the bubbling fat, seasoning with salt and 
pepper; cook until brown, and eat while hot. — Every¬ 
day Cook-Book : Miss E. Neill. 

Salt Pork and Apples. 

“ Cut half a pound of nicely cured pork in slices a 
quarter of an inch thick, fry them slowly until brown 
in a deep frying-pan, and take them up on a hot dish. 


BACON AND EGGS. 


45 


Meantime wash, wipe, and slice six sour apples, and 
when the pork is taken up put them into the frying- 
pan to cook until they are tender, but not broken. 
Lay them on a dish with the pork, and serve them 
hot.” 

Bacon and Eggs. 

Take a quarter of a pound of streaked bacon, cut 
it into thin slices, and put them into a frying-pan 
over a slow fire ; take care to turn them frequently; 
when the meat is done, take it out, and break into 
the hot fat seven or eight eggs. Cook more or less 
according to taste, and serve with the bacon. — 
Arthur's Home Magazine. 


Oh ! ’tis eggs are a treat, 

When so white and so sweet, 

From under the manger they’re taken, 

And by fair Margery — 

Och ! ’tis she’s full of glee — 

They are fried with fat rashers of bacon. 

Father Prout's Relics. 

To Boil Pickled Pork. 

Having washed and scraped it, put it into boiling 
water with the skin-side uppermost. If it be thin, 
a piece of four pounds will be done in less than an 
hour ; a leg of eight pounds will take three hours. 
Pork should be done enough, but if boiled too fast 
or too long it will become jelly. Keep the pot well 
skimmed, and send it to table with peas-pudding and 
greens. Some persons like carrots, parsnips also. — 
American Home Cook-Book. Dick & Fitzgerald , 
Pubs. (By peri) 

Soused Pig’s Feet. 

Take the ears, feet, and upper part of the head; 
scrape clean, boil until the meat is tender; take it 


46 JELLY OF IUG'S FEET AND EARS. 

up; flavor properly, and put into pure vinegar; spice 
as you like. Put it in a jar, and keep closely cov¬ 
ered. Tripe can be pickled in the same way. — 
American Home Cook-Book. 

Jelly of Pig’s Feet and Ears. 

Clean and prepare as for soused pig’s feet, then 

boil them in a very small quantity of water till every 

bone can be taken out ; throw in half a handful of 

chopped sage, the same of parsley, and a seasoning 

of pepper, salt, and mace, in fine powder; simmer 

till the herbs are scalded, then pour the whole into 

a melon form. — American Home Cook-Book. 

> 

To Boil a Ham. 

If the ham has been long cured, soak it in cold 
water for from twelve to twenty hours. Scrape it, 
and put it into a large vessel to boil with plenty of 
cold water, and let it simmer gently from three to 
four or five hours according to the size. A ham 
of twenty pounds will require four hours and a half. 
Skim the pot frequently to remove the grease as it 
rises. When done, strip off the rind, and strew 
bread-raspings over the top side, then set it before 
the fire, or in the oven, to dry and brown. — Amer¬ 
ican Home Cook-Book. 

To Broil Ham. 

Cut the ham about a third of an inch thick, and 
broil it very quickly over a brisk fire; lay it on a 
hot dish, pepper it, and put on it a good lump of 
butter.— American Home Cook-Book. 


CHAPTER V. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 




MISCELLANEOUS. 


Two swift-winged hours will bring the time 
When sounds the sabbath supper chime; 

And I’ll desert my easy nest 
To reach the board before the rest, — 

To reach the board so white and neat, 

That I may something have to eat. 

I know just what the feast will be : 

Some bread cut thin, and weakly tea, 

Some cheap and highly-colored jam, 

Some slices of transparent ham, 

Some Gorgonzola, — Jersey make,— 

Some tiny bits of frosted cake. 

The napery will be as white 
As all the silverware is bright; 

The cups and saucers, fragile, thin, 

Would suit a captious mandarin; 

And then the waiter, black as night, 

Will be both constant and polite. 

To cheer the fond aesthetic heart, 

The boarders will converse on art, 

The drama, music, poesy, 

And politics, to-night at tea ; 

And Clara Vere de Vere will chat 
About the latest Paris hat. 

A good meal makes a merrier heart 
Than all your high aesthetic art. 

When one is hungry, frescoed walls 
Can’t take the place of codfish balls; 

No substitutes are painted screens 
And porcelain, for pork and beans; 

A banquet may be all that’s sweet, 

Even though all be incomplete 
That’s alien to the things to eat. 

The Sabbath Supper Chime: Puck. {Byper. Ed) 


Codfish Balls. 

Pick up as fine as possible a teacup of nice white 
codfish. Freshen all night, or, if wanted for any 



50 


BAKED BEANS. 


other meal than breakfast, from the morning ; scald 
it once, and drain off the water; chop and work it 
until entirely fine; put it in a basin with water, a bit 
of butter the size of an egg, and two eggs; beat it 
thoroughly, and heat it until it thickens, without 
boiling. It should, when all is mixed, be about a 
quart. Have some potatoes ready prepared and 
nicely mashed; work the fish and potatoes thoroughly 
together as above, make it in flat cakes, and brown 
both sides. This is a very nice dish, as all who 
have tried it allow. — Godey's Lady } s Book. (By per. 
Pub) 

Baked Beans. 

The small white beans are the best for baking. 
Pick out the bad ones ; wash, and soak over night in 
lukewarm water. Early the next morning set them 
where they will boil, adding a teaspoonful of saleratus. 
When partially done, take them out of the water 
with a skimmer, and put them in an earthen jar or 
* crock, salting them at the same time. Gash about a 
pound of pork in narrow strips, put it with the 
beans in such a way that all the rind will be covered. 
Turn in water until you can just see it at the top. 
Bake the beans from two to five hours in a moderate 
oven. The beans when done should be of a nice even 
brown over the top, the pork tender, and the rind 
crispy.— Arthur s Home Magazine. (By per. P?ibs.) 

“Liver?” said Toby, communing with himself. “No, there’s a 
mildness about it that don’t answer to liver. Pettitoes? No. It 
ain’t faint enough for pettitoes. It wants the stringiness of cocks’ 
heads. And I know it ain’t sausages. I’ll tell you what it is. It’s 
chitterlings! ” 

“ No, it ain’t! ” cried Meg, in a burst of delight. “ No, it ain’t! ” 

“ Why, what am I a-thinking of! ” said Toby, suddenly recovering 


STEWED TRIPE. 


51 


a position as near the perpendicular as it was possible for him to 
assume. “ I shall forget my own name next. It’s tripe.” 

Tripe it was; and Meg, in high joy, protested he should say, 
in half a minute more, it was the best tripe ever stewed. — The 
Chimes: Charles Dickens. 

Stewed Tripe. 

Select two pounds of double tripe well cleaned and 
blanched, cut in pieces of rather less than a quarter 
of a pound each ; put in a clean stewpan with a pint 
of milk and one of water, two teaspoonfuls of salt, 
one of pepper, eight middle-sized onions carefully 
peeled. Set it on to boil, which it should do at first 
rather fast, then simmer till done, which will be in 
rather more than half an hour. Put it into a deep 
dish or tureen, and serve with the milk and onions. 
— Dainty Dishes : Lady Harriet St. Clair. 

Pettitoes. 

“ Boil them, the liver, and the heart, very gently 
in a little water; then mince the meat fine, split the 
feet, and simmer till they are tender ; thicken with 
flour, butter, and a spoonful of cream ; add salt and 
pepper, let it boil, pour it over a few sippets of bread, 
and put the feet on the mince.” 

Sausages. 

“ The proper seasoning is salt, pepper, sage, sum¬ 
mer savory, or thyme ; they should be one-third fat, 
the remainder lean, finely chopped, and the season¬ 
ings well mixed, and proportioned so that one herb 
may not predominate over the others. If skins are 
used, they cannot be prepared with too much care ; 
but they are about as well made into cakes.” 


52 TO KEEP SAUSAGE FRESH ALL THE YEAR. 


To keep Sausage Fresh all the Year. 

“Fry as if for present use; pack in stone jars, and, 
if the grease that fries out of the meat is not suffi¬ 
cient to cover it, pour over hot lard so as to cover it, 
and entirely exclude the air.” 

White or Suet Pudding. 

Two pounds of suet, four pounds of flour. Rub 
the suet thoroughly in the flour, until well mixed. 
Season with salt and pepper; spice with a heaping 
tablespoonful of cinnamon. Make little muslin bags 
that will hold about a teacupful of the mixture. Fill 
them, tie tightly, and boil slowly about half an hour. 
Drain them off, and when dry spread out on shallow 
dishes, and keep in a good cupboard. When desired 
to use, take one or more, as may be required, re-boil 
a while, then remove the muslin, and put the pudding 
on a patty-pan or baking-dish, and set in the oven a 
short time to brown. Send to the table hot. It is* 
very nice to use for breakfast sometimes, taking the 
place of sausages, hash, and kindred dishes. 

To bake a Beef’s Heart. 

Cut it open, remove the ventricles, and let it soak 
an hour in lukewarm water. Wipe dry with a cloth, 
and parboil for twenty minutes. Make a rich stuff¬ 
ing, fill the heart with it, and secure it with a string. 
Let it bake an hour and a half or two hours, with 
half a pint of water in the pan. The gravy will not 
need any thickening. Serve with currant or any 
acid jelly. — Arthur's Home Magazine. (By per) 


LAMB'S HEAD. 


53 


Lamb’s Head. 

“ Soak the head well in cold water, and boil it sepa¬ 
rately till very tender. Parboil the liver and lights, 
mince them small, and stir them in a little of the 
water in which they were boiled; add seasoning, 
thicken with floured butter, and serve the head with 
the mince around it.” 

Little Pigs in Blankets. 

Season large oysters with salt and pepper. Cut 
fat English bacon in very thin slices; wrap an oyster 
in each slice, and fasten with a little wooden skewer 
(tooth-picks are the best things). Heat a frying-pan, 
and put in the “little pigs.” Cook just long enough 
to crisp the bacon, — about two minutes. Place on 
slices of toast that have been cut into small pieces, 
and serve immediately. Do not remove the skewers. 
This is a nice relish for lunch or tea; and, garnished 
with parsley, is a pretty one. The pan must be very 
hot before the “pigs ” are put in, and then great care 
must be taken that they do not burn. — New Cook- 
Book : Miss Maria Parloa. Estes & Lauriat y Pubs. 
(By per) 

“ Bubble and Squeak.” 

Take from a round of beef, which has been well 
boiled and cold, two or three slices, amounting to 
about one pound to one pound and a half in weight, 
two carrots which have been boiled with the joint, 
in a cold state, as also the hearts of two boiled greens 
that are cold. Cut the meat into small dice-formed 
pieces, and chop up the vegetables together; pepper 


54 


MEAT PORCUPINE. 


and salt the latter, and fry them with the meat in a 
pan in a quarter-pound of sweet butter ; when fully 
done, add to the pan in which the ingredients are 
fried, half a gill of fresh catsup, and serve your 
dish up to the dinner-table with mashed potatoes. — 
Godey’ s Lady's Book. (By per.) 

Meat Porcupine. 

Chop fine some lean cooked veal , chicken , or lamb ; 
and one-fourth its amount of cracker or bread crumbs 
or mashed potato , and a small quantity of chopped 
bacon; season highly with salt, pepper, cayenne , and 
lemon-juice; moisten with beaten egg and stock or 
water enough to shape it. Mould it into an oval 
loaf, and put into a shallow pan well greased. Cut 
strips of fat bacon one-fourth of an inch wide and 
one inch long. Make holes in the loaf with a small 
skewer ; insert the strips of bacon, leaving the ends 
out half an inch, and push the meat up firmly round 
the bacon. Bake till brown. The bacon will baste 
the meat sufficiently. — The Boston Cook-Book: 
Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. Roberts Brothers , Pubs. (By 
per.) 

Hints for Marketing. 

“ Good fresh beef has a fine grain, and is of a rich 
carnation color. It is firm, but tender and elastic to 
the touch. The fat is yellowish white and firm. 

“ Veal should have firm white fat, and the lean 
have a pinkish tinge. 

“The best mutton is of a fine grain, a bright color, 
the fat firm and white. 

“ Lamb should be eaten very fresh. 


In the fore- 


HINTS FOR MARKETING. 


55 


quarter, the vein in the neck being any other color 
than blue betrays it to be stale. 

“ Pork, when fresh and young, is smooth and firm, 
and the rind is thin. The lean must be of a uniform 
color, and the fat white and not at all streaked. 

“ A good test for ham is to run a knife under the 
bone; if it comes out clean, and smells agreeably, 
the ham is good. 

“ In the selection of fish, make sure that the eyes 
are full, the gills bright red, and the flesh firm and 
stiff. If the flesh is flabby, the eyes sunken, and 
the gills of a dark color, the fish is stale. They 
should be thoroughly cleaned when first procured, 
and washed in just sufficient water to cleanse them. 
If much water is used, the flavor will be diminished. 
Sprinkle salt in the inside, and if they are to be 
broiled, add pepper. Keep them in a cool place till 
you wish to cook them. Fresh-water fish are apt to 
have an earthy taste, which may be removed by soak¬ 
ing them in salt and water after cleaning. Most 
kinds of salt fish should be soaked in cold water ten 
or twelve hours before cooking. 

“ Flat fish, as a rule, keep better than round. 
They should be chosen for their thickness rather 
than for their size.” 














\ 








CHAPTER VI. 


POULTRY. 










POULTRY. 

SAM LAWSON AND HIS TURKEY. 

“There, to be sure,” said Aunt Lois, one day when our prepara¬ 
tions were in full blast, “there comes Sam Lawson down the hill, 
limpsy as ever; now he’ll have his doleful story to tell, and mother’ll 
give him one of the turkeys.” 

And so, of course, it fell out. Sam came in with his usual air of 
plaintive assurance, and seated himself a contemplative spectator in 
the chimney-corner, regardless of the looks and signs of unwelcome 
on the part of Aunt Lois. 

“ Lordy massy, how prosperous every thing does seem here! ” he 
^aid in musing tones, over his inevitable mug of cider; “so different 
from what ’tis t’ our home. There’s Hepsy, she’s all in a stew, an’ 
I’ve just been an’ got her thirty-seven cents wuth o’ nutmegs, yet she 
says she’s sure she don’t see how she’s to keep Thanksgiving, an’ 
she’s down on me about it, just as ef ’twas my fault. Yeh see, last 
winter, our old gobbler got froze. You know, Mis’ Badger, that ’ere 
cold night we had last winter. Wal, I was off with Jake Marshall 
that night: ye see, Jake, he hed to take old Gen. Dearborn’s corpse 
into Boston, to the family vault, an’ Jake, he kind o’ hated to go 
alone. ’Twas a drefful cold time, an’ he ses to me, ‘ Sam, you jes’ go 
’long with me.’ So I was sort o’ sorry for him, an’ I kind o’ thought 
I’d go ’long. Wal, come ’long to Josh Bissel’s tahvern, there at the 
Half-way House, you know, ’twas so swinging cold, we stopped to 
take a little suthin’ warmin’, an’ we sort o’ sot an’ sot over the fire, till, 
first we knew, we kind o’ got asleep; an’ when we woke up, we found 
we’d left the old general hitched up t’ th’ post pretty much all night. 
Wal, didn’t hurt him none, poor man; ’twas allers a favorite spot o’ 
his’n. But, takin’ one thing with another, I didn’t get home till about 
noon next day, an’ I tell you, Hepsy, she was right down on me. She 
said the baby was sick, an’ there hadn’t been no wood split, nor the 
barn fastened up, nor nothin’! Lordy massy, I didn’t mean no harm. 
I thought there was wood enough, an’ I thought likely Hepsy’d git 
out an’ fasten up the barn. But Hepsy, she was in one o’ her con¬ 
trary streaks, an’ she wouldn’t do a thing. An’ when I went out to 
look, why, sure ’nuff, there was our old tom-turkey froze as stiff as 
a stake, — his claws jist a-sticldn’right straight up like this.” Here 
Sam struck an expressive attitude, and looked so much like a frozen 
turkey, as to give a pathetic reality to the picture. 

“ Well, now, Sam, why need you be off on things that’s none of 
your business ? ” said my grandmother. “ I’ve talked to you plainly 
about that a great many times, Sam,” she continued, in tones of severe 
admonition. “ Hepsy is a hard-working woman, but she can’t be ex- 




59 


6o 


HOW TO SELECT A TURKEY. 


pected to see to every thing ; an’ you oughter ’ave been at home that 
night to fasten up your own barn, and look after your own cree- 
turs.” 

Sam took the rebuke all the more meekly, as he perceived the stiff 
black legs of a turkey poking out from under my grandmothers apron, 
while she was delivering it. To be exhorted and told of his short¬ 
comings, and then furnished with a turkey at Thanksgiving, was a 
yearly part of his family programme. In time he departed, not only 
with the turkey, but with us boys in procession after him, bearing a 
mince and a punipkin pie for Hepsy’s children. 

“Poor things!” my grandmother remarked ; “they ought to have 
something good to eat Thanksgiving Day; ’tain’t their fault that 
they’ve got a shiftless father.” — Oldtown Folks: Mrs. H. B. 
Stowe. Houghton , Mifflin, &= Co., Pubs. (By per.) 


How to Select a Turkey. 

The practice of sending partially dressed fowls to 
our markets is one which should be condemned by 
every housekeeper who desires pure, untainted meat. 
Therefore, in the selection of a turkey, first see that 
it is entirely cleansed inside; and especially see 
that the crop is removed, as this, with its undigested 
food, will very soon poison the whole of the most 
delicious portion of the fowl. The skin should be of 
fine texture, and should disclose no purple flesh 
underneath, as that indicates age. The legs should 
be smooth and dark, and the spurs soft and loose. 
There should be no heavy layers of pale, unhealthy 
fat along the back : this indicates a rapidly fattened, 
if not a stall-fed turkey. The flesh must be white 
and the breast plump, and the fat yellow ; but, above 
all, it should smell perfectly sweet inside. Having 
secured a good turkey, the next thing to do is to 
thoroughly cleanse it, extract the pin-feathers, and 
hang it up to dry. 



HOW TO TOAST A TURKEY. 


61 


How to Roast a Turkey. 

While it is drying, prepare a dressing in the fol¬ 
lowing manner: If you have no good home-made 
loaf, take one-half or three-fourths of a stale loaf of 
baker’s bread, and cut into small pieces, over which 
pour very scantily warm (not boiling) water; enough 
to make the bread light, soft, and still have it flaky, 
is the desired quantity; boiling water poured over 
bread until it is mushy and glutinous will never 
make good stuffing; add two well-beaten eggs, a 
good pinch of finely powdered sage without the 
stems, one small onion fried a golden brown in but¬ 
ter, pepper and salt. Now put into a skillet a table¬ 
spoonful of butter, and, when turning a light brown, 
add the dressing; leave it to fry a golden brown, 
then turn and stir until thoroughly heated. Take it 
off, and fill the turkey, after salting the inside; do 
not press the dressing in compactly, but leave room 
for it to swell. It should have been said at the 
proper place, to push back the skin from the neck, 
and cut the latter off close to the body; stuff the 
breast from this opening, then turn the skin over on 
the back, and sew it; the other vent needs no sew¬ 
ing, when the fowl is properly stuffed ; now press 
the legs up as far as possible toward the breast, and 
secure firmly to the end of the turkey. With a rub¬ 
bing over of salt, it is now ready for the oven, and 
if roasted in an enclosed pan, there will be no need 
of basting; otherwise, with about a half-pint of water 
to start it, it will need to be basted frequently. The 
heat of the oven should be moderate at first, but 
increased afterward ; if it browns too fast, wet a clean 


62 


TURKEY DRESSED WITH OYSTERS. 


cloth in water, and lay over the turkey; this can be 
remoistened occasionally. Allow about twenty min¬ 
utes to each pound of meat. When the turkey is 
taken out, there should be nothing but fat in the 
pan with which to make gravy; if there is more 
than three or, four tablespoonfuls, pour it out, as that 
is sufficient; into what is left in the pan, put flour 
enough to absorb it, and let it cook, with constant 
stirring, until the flour is done; then add a pint and 
a half of cold water, and stir constantly until it 
thickens. To insure good gravy, the fat must on no 
account be allowed to burn in the bottom of the pan, 
while the turkey is roasting; arrange the damper to 
ne certain to avoid this. The giblets may be put on 
in a quart of water, which may be allowed to boil 
down to a pint; then chop them, and add either to 
the dressing or gravy. — Commercial Gazette , Cincin¬ 
nati ", O. {By per.) 

Turkey dressed with Oysters. 

For a ten-pound turkey, take two pints of bread¬ 
crumbs, half a teacupful of butter cut in bits (not 
melted), one teaspoonful of sweet basil, pepper, and 
salt, and mix thoroughly. Rub the turkey well, 
inside and out, with salt and pepper; then fill with 
first a spoonful of crumbs, then a few well-drained 
oysters, using half a can for the turkey. Strain the 
oyster-liquor, and use to baste the turkey. Cook 
the giblets in the pan, and chop fine in the gravy. 
A fowl of this size will require three hours cooking 
in a moderate oven. — Presbyterian Cook-Book, 
Dayton , O. Mrs. W. A. B. {Byper) 


UTILIZING THE “LEFT-OVERS." 63 

Utilizing the “ Left-Overs.” 

The remnants of the turkey, after the best bits 
have been removed from the bones for other use, 
make a most delicious soup. Place all the bones and 
bits of dressing in an earthen vessel, cover with cold 
water, and simmer for two hours. Remove the bones, 
and strain the stock through a hair sieve or cloth, to 
clear away all bits of meat, skin, gristle, or bread¬ 
crumbs. Half an hour before straining the stock, 
prepare two medium-sized bunches of celery by wash¬ 
ing, and cutting into pieces an inch long. Use both 
the leaves and green parts of the stems, as well as the 
blanched. Put it on the stove in cold water, and 
when the stock is ready, add both water and celery 
to it. Season well with salt and whole peppers. 
Variety may be given by using several kinds of vege¬ 
tables for flavoring, — cabbage, turnip, onion, and 
carrot, a very small quantity of each. Instead of 
vegetables, dumplings made thus may be added: 
Beat two eggs very light, add half a teaspoonful of 
salt, same of baking-powder, and flour enough to 
make a stiff dough ; pinch off bits the size of a large 
hickory-nut, roll between the fingers round, and drop 
them into the boiling stock half an hour before the 
soup is to be served. One of the most simple ways 
of warming up cold turkey is to separate all bits of 
skin and gristle from the pieces which have been cut 
from the bones when preparing them for soup, and 
placing the meat, not chopped, but shred in long 
pieces, in a frying-pan with sufficient melted butter 
to fry it. It should be stirred lightly several times, 
and not fried brown, or it will be too hard. If there 


64 


CRANBERRIES. 


is any cold stuffing, cut it in pieces, fry brown after 
the turkey has been taken up, and place it around the 
edge of the plate. — Harper s Bazar. (By per. Harper 
& Brothers .) 

Cranberries. 

Put three pints of washed cranberries in a granite 
stewpan. On top of them put three cnps of granu¬ 
lated sugar and three gills of water. After they begin 
to boil, cook them ten minutes, closely covered, and 
do not stir them. Remove the scum. They will 
jelly when cool, and the skins will be soft and ten¬ 
der.— The Boston Cook-Book: Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. 
Roberts Brothers , Pubs. (By perl) 

A Chestnut Puree. 

Slit the husks of fifty chestnuts, and put them in 
a saucepan with a bit of butter; put the lid on, and 
let them heat, tossing the pan now and then. In 
about twenty minutes you can easily remove all the 
hulls. Put the nuts in a saucepan with a ladleful of 
stock, beef-tea, or hot water; let them simmer gently 
until soft; pound them ; put them through a sieve or 
colander; add a little nutmeg, salt, and sugar; serve 
up very hot with a dash of cream or butter. 

This is for a garnish to chops or cutlets. Serve in 
a gravy-boat, and then it will keep hot. To put 
around roast turkey, they are prepared in the same 
way, but kept whole, and the consomme or beef-tea 
is cooked down to a glaze and with a little butter, so 
that they are shiny. Toss them about in it to cover 
them all over.— Public Ledger , Philadelphia. (By 
per. Editor of The Household .) 


TO TOAST A GOOSE. 


65 


Such a bustle ensued, that you might have thought a goose the 
rarest of all birds, a feathered phenomenon to which a black swan 
was a matter of course ; and in truth it was something very like it, in 
that house. Mrs. Cratchit made the gravy (ready beforehand in a 
little saucepan) hissing hot; Master Peter mashed the potatoes with 
incredible vigor ; Miss Belinda sweetened up the apple-sauce ; Martha 
dusted the hot plates; Bob took Tiny Tim beside him in a tiny cor¬ 
ner at the table; the two young Cratchits set chairs for everybody, 
not forgetting themselves, and, mounting guard upon their posts, 
crammed spoons into their mouths, lest they should shriek for goose 
before their turn came to be helped. At last the dishes were set on, 
and grace was said. It was succeeded by a breathless pause, as Mrs. 
Cratchit, looking slowly all along the carving-knife, prepared to plunge 
it in the breast; but when she did, and when the long-expected gush 
of stuffing issued forth, one murmur of delight arose all round the 
board, and even Tiny Tim, excited by the two young Cratchits, beat 
on the table with the handle of his knife, and feebly cried, Hurrah! 

There never was such a goose. Bob said he didn’t believe there 
ever was such a goose cooked. Its tenderness and flavor, size and 
cheapness, were the themes of universal admiration. Eked out by 
apple-sauce and mashed potatoes, it was a sufficient dinner for the 
whole family; indeed, as Mrs. Cratchit said with great delight (sur¬ 
veying one small atom of a bone upon the dish), they hadn’t ate it all 
at last! Yet every one had had enough, and the youngest Cratchits 
in particular were steeped in sage and onion to the eyebrows!—A 
Christmas Carol: Charles Dickens. 


To Roast a Goose. 

“ Take a young goose, pick, singe, and clean well. 

Make the stuffing with two ounces of onions (about 

four common-sized) and one ounce of green sage 

chopped very fine ; then add a large coffee-cup of 

stale bread-crumbs and the same of mashed pota- 

% 

toes, a little pepper and salt, a bit of butter as big 
as a walnut, the yolk of an egg or two ; mix these 
well together, and then stuff the goose. Do not fill 
it entirely : the stuffing requires room to swell. It 
will take two hours or more to roast it thoroughly. 
The fire must be brisk. Baste it with salt and water 
at first, then with its own dripping. 

“ A green goose — that is, one under four 
months old — is seasoned with pepper and salt 


66 


APPLESAUCE FOR GOOSE. 


instead of sage and onions. It will roast in an 
hour.” 

Apple-Sauce for Goose. 

Peel, core, and cujt up a gallon of pippins or other 
fresh apples ; stew them, with a little water added, 
grate in a bit of the peel of a lemon and all its juice ; 
sweeten to your taste when the apples are done very 
tender, mash them up perfectly smooth, and serve. — 
Virginia Cookery-Book : Mrs. Mary Stuart Smith. 
Harper & Brothers , Pubs. (By peri) 

Duckling Pot Roast. 

This is a very good way to cook this very accept¬ 
able bird. Put into a shallow crock a thin strip of 
bacon and a tablespoonful of mixed whole spice. 
Clean and truss two ducklings, put them in the crock, 
add hot water or soup-stock enough to come up half 
way on the birds. Then add a sprig of celery and 
two of parsley; place a narrow strip of bacon over 
each bird ; cover close, and set the crock in a mod¬ 
erate oven, where the birds will cook slowly two 
hours. Remove the ducklings, strain the sauce, and 
reduce it one-third by boiling; add a gill of dark 
wine; thicken with a dash of brown flour; simmer 
fifteen minutes ; add a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 
and serve with the duck. A small quantity of the 
sauce may be boiled down until thick as cream. 
This is called glaze: it is brushed over the bird 
before serving. — The Book of Entrees: Thomas 
J. Murrey. White , Stokes , & Allen , Pubs. 


CHICKEN FRICASSEE. 


67 


The most elegant dish of the Romans was a stuffed peacock. A 
young peacock is eatable when properly roasted, but an old one is 
really very poor eating; but the Romans used to prepare them in the 
following way: They selected those with the most beautiful plumage, 
and stifled them to death, believing that that mode of killing gave 
more brilliancy to the plumage. As soon as dead, they carefully split 
the bird open by an incision all along the back, from the bill to the 
rump. They then took out all the bones, meat, etc., leaving only the 
bones of the legs to the first joint, those of the wings to the second 
joint, and the head whole, except the brain, eyes, and tongue. The 
inside of the skin was now immediately lined with a coating of glue, 
and filled with bran to keep it in shape. The feathers that were 
spoiled were varnished, and false but brilliant eyes were placed in¬ 
stead of the natural ones. When dry the skin was filled with roasted 
birds or with the flesh of birds chopped and cooked, and carefully 
sewed up. The bird was served on a large silver dish made for that 
purpose. The dish was of an oblong shape, and in the middle and 
soldered to it was something resembling the trunk of a tree with a 
kind of limb on which the bird was fastened. It was meant to look 
just as if it were alive, and resting itself on a perch, with an ear of 
millet in its bill. It was always served at the beginning of the dinner, 
and was one of the last dishes eaten. — Pierre Blot. 


Chicken Fricassee. 

“Take two chickens, cut up, and lay them in skil¬ 
let, with two slices of lean ham, two small eschalots, 
and a few blades of mace. Then season fowls with 
pepper and salt. Add a little water. When about 
half done, add half a pint of cream, and a lump of 
butter the size of a walnut, rolled in flour. Keep the 
fricassee constantly stirring till done.” 

A Souffle of Chicken. 

Take the white meat of a chicken, remove all the 
skin and sinews, and mince it up as fine as possible. 
Then put the meat into a stew-pan, together with 
some white sauce, a little parsley chopped fine, and 
pepper and salt. Set the pan on the fire, and stir 
it until it boils; then remove it to one side to cool 
a little. Have the yolks of three eggs beaten to a 


68 


CHICKEN CURRY. 


firm froth, and stir these into the mixture. Butter 
well a mould, strew over the bottom and sides of it 
some fine bread-crumbs, and place a piece of white 
paper around the top to allow the souffle to rise. 
Then put it in a very quick oven to bake, and-when 
done, serve with white sauce poured round it. — The 
Caterer. (By per) 

Chicken Curry. 

Fine-grained poultry does not make good curry, as 
the curry-powder is unable to permeate the centre 
of the flesh. A coarse-grained bird will be found the 
best for this purpose. Boil the chicken in the usual 
manner, saving the broth. When cold, cut it neatly, 
and rub the curry-powder into the meat. Cut up one 
large sour apple and half an onion ; fry these in but¬ 
ter ; add the meat, toss it about a moment, and add 
half a pint of the chicken-broth and a tablespoonful of 
chutney, simmer until thoroughly amalgamated, and 
serve with rice or shredded maize. A little sugar is 
an improvement, and may thicken the sauce, but I 
like it without flour. — The Book of Entrees: 
Thomas J. Murrey. White, Stokes, & Allen, Pubs. 

Chicken Salad. No. i. 

“ Mince the white meat of a chicken fine, or pull it 
in bits; chop the white parts of celery. Prepare a 
salad-dressing thus : Rub the yolks of four hard- 
boiled eggs to a smooth paste with a dessertspoon¬ 
ful of salad-oil, two teaspoonfuls of made mustard, 
one teaspoonful of salt, and one teacupful of strong 
vinegar. Mix the chicken and celery together, and 


CHICKEN SALAD. 


6 9 


pour the dressing over when ready to serve. Gar¬ 
nish the dish with the delicate leaves of the celery. 
White-heart lettuce may be substituted for the 
celery.” 

Chicken Salad. No. 2. 

“For one good-sized chicken take one bunch of 
celery chopped fine, a little pepper and salt. For 
dressing for the above quantity, take the yolks of 
two eggs boiled hard, make them fine, and add mus¬ 
tard, vinegar, oil, and a little cayenne-pepper and 
salt to suit taste. The liquor the chicken is boiled 
in is very nice to use in mixing it. Put in just 
enough to moisten it nicely. When it becomes cold 
it is like a jelly, but it is a great improvement to the 
salad.” 

Jellied Chicken. 

Boil a fowl until it will slip easily from the bones; 
let the water be reduced to about one pint in boiling; 
pick the meat from the bones in good-sized pieces, 
taking out all gristle, fat, and bones ; place in a wet 
mould; skim the fat from the liquor, add a little 
butter, pepper and salt to the taste, and one half¬ 
ounce of gelatine. When this dissolves, pour it hot 
over the chicken. The liquor must be seasoned 
pretty high, for the chicken absorbs.— The Every¬ 
day Cook-Book : Miss E. Neill. ( By per . Belford , 
Clarke , & Co.) 

Chicken Pie. 

Boil the fowls until tender; prepare a crust of 
buttermilk and cream, in the same manner as for soft 
biscuit; line your baking-dish with a portion of it; 


JO CHICKEN PIE WITH SWEET POTATOES. 


then break the fowls in pieces, and place the por¬ 
tions around in the pie. Put in some lumps of but¬ 
ter ; then put in the liquid in which the fowls were 
boiled, until the pan is two-thirds full. It should be 
seasoned to the taste before putting in, but not have 
any thickening in, or it will dry away too much. 
Roll out, and wet the edge where the crust comes 
together. Make a hole in the top to let out the 
steam. Bake it moderately. At least two fowls will 
be necessary for a large pie. —From Peterson's Maga¬ 
zine. (By peri) 

Chicken Pie with Sweet Potatoes. 

Cut up a chicken, and put on to stew; and after it 
has boiled a while (skimming it when necessary), add 
six medium-sized sweet potatoes peeled and cut in 
halves. Stew until tender, and then place the pieces 
of chicken and potatoes alternately in a large pie- 
dish lined with crust made as for biscuit. Season 
with pepper and salt, and the gravy furnished by 
stewing the chicken and potatoes. Cover with 
crust, and bake. —Lizzie Strohm. 

Giblet Pie. 

Wash and clean the giblets, put them in a stew- 
pan, season with pepper, salt, and a little butter 
rolled in flour; cover them with water, stew them till 
they are very tender. Line the sides of your pie- 
dish with paste, put in the giblets, and if the gravy 
is not quite thick enough, add a little more butter 
rolled in flour, and let it boil once. Pour in the gravy, 
put on the top crust, leaving an opening in the cem 


PIGEON PIE. 


71 

tre of it in the form of a square; ornament this with 
leaves of the paste. Set the pie in the oven, and 
when the crust is done take it out. — Peterson's 
Magazine. (By per .) 

Pigeon Pie. 

Having picked and cleaned five pigeons, fill them 
with a stuffing of grated cold ham, grated cracker, 
salt, pepper, and butter. If asparagus is in season, 
the green tops may be substituted for the cracker. 
Pour milk and water into the dish until the pigeons 
are nearly covered. Put a lid of paste on the top, 
and bake an hour. If you wish the pigeons very 
tender, parboil them twenty minutes, and use the 
water in which they were boiled to make the pie. — 
Arthur s Home Magazine. (By per. Pubs) 

The pigeons were snugly put to bed in a comfortable pie, and 
tucked in with a coverlet of crust. — Legend of Sleepy Hollow: 
Washington Irving. [Byper. G. P. Putnam's Sons.) 

Roast Guinea Fowls. 

Pick, clean, wash, and stuff as you would chickens, 
adding to the stuffing a little minced ham. Roast as 
you would chickens, basting liberally with butter. 
Season the gravy with a chopped shallot, and with 
summer-savory ; add the giblets, and thicken with 
browned flour.— The Unrivalled Cook-Book: Mrs. 
Washington. (By per. Harper & Brothers .) 

« 

Croquettes de Volaille. (Poultry Croquettes.) 

Melt a bit of butter in a stew-pan, put into it 
chopped parsley and mushrooms, two spoonfuls of 


72 


CROQUETTES DE VOLAILLE. 

flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Fry it, and pour in 
stock and a little cream. This sauce ought to have 
the consistence of thick milk. Cut up any poultry 
which has been cooked the day before, into dice. 
Put them into the sauce, and let it get cold. Form 
it into balls, and cover them with bread-crumbs. 
Wash these in eggs which have been beaten up, and 
roll them in bread-crumbs a second time. Fry them 
to a good color, and serve with a garnish of fried 
parsley.— Peterson's Magazine . (By peri) 


CHAPTER VII. 


GAME. 




GAME. 

“ I believe I agree with the English people generally,” said Steven, 
not without a smile. Ih the levity of youth, ignorance, and unbounded 
digestion, cooking to him was the least important of subjects. “ For 
myself, a venison steak broiled over a wood fire, a buck’s head baked 
in an earth oven, a partridge or quail quickly roasted, and a snatch of 
cassava bread, have been my diet for years, with a mug of black cof¬ 
fee— as long as our coffee held out — to wash it down.” 

A look almost of excitement came across Lord Petres’ impassive 
face. “Lawrence,” said he earnestly, “I’m delighted to have met 
you. Sit down, pray. This conversation is most interesting to me. 
At the present moment I am.endeavoring to work out an idea,—not 
original, nothing’s original, — but an idea too much neglected by writers 
on art generally; which is, that the perfection of cookery is, in many 
cases, to be sought, not by striving after new combinations, but by 
reverting to the instinctive, untaught science of the simple hunter in 
the woods. Your remark confirms all that I have been writing on the 
subject. You speak of a venison steak smoking hot from the embers, 
of small game quickly roasted, of a buck’s head cooked by slow and 
gradual heat. — Good God, sir! do you not know that all this is the 
jieplus ultra of intuitive science, bearing out with accuracy the axiom 
of the immortal Savarin, that On devient cuisinier , mais on nait rods- 
seur ? ” 

“ I don’t know French,” said Steven, “ except a few words I picked 
up in the Canadian backwoods once; but I know our food used to 
taste deuced good to us in the forests or out prairie hunting. Still I 
can’t say I ever enjoyed any thing more than some cold beef and pic¬ 
kles that I ate when I landed in Southampton yesterday. After living 
on wild flesh, as I have done, for years, I believe plain English beef 
and mutton will be a treat to me, ill-cooked or well-cooked.” — Steven 
Lawrence, Yeoman : Mrs. Edwards. 


To Cook a Deer’s Head in Camp. 

Dig a hole two feet square and one foot deep; 
build a fire in it, and allow it to burn to embers ; re¬ 
move about half of the remaining coals, throw in the 
hole a thin layer of green leaves, on top of which 
put the head in the same condition as when taken 


75 



76 VENISON' STEA JUS, BROILED. 

from the animal ; cover it thoroughly with a layer of 
green leaves, and the embers and ashes previously 
taken from the hole; allow the head to roast an 
hour and a half, then remove it, and pull the skin 
from it; season with salt and pepper.— The Un¬ 
rivalled Cook-Book : Mrs. Washington. (By per. 
Harper & Brothers .) 

Venison Steaks, Broiled. 

“Wash and wipe them dry. Put them on the 
gridiron, over a clear fire, and broil them; then 
season with salt and pepper, and baste them with 
butter. Serve with currant-jelly.” 

* 

Venison Steaks, Fried. 

“ Wash two steaks ; season with salt, black and 
red pepper mixed, and fry a light brown on both 
sides. When done, place them on a dish, and 
dredge into the pan one dessertspoonful of browned 
flour, to which add gradually one cupful of boiling 
water; stir well, and season to taste. Garnish the 
top of each with currant-jelly, and send to table on 
a well-heated dish.” 

Opossums. 

Opossums are best in the autumn when the per¬ 
simmons are ripe, as they eat that fruit, and become 
very fat. They are never caught in the daytime. 
A fine moonlight night is the best time to catch 
opossums. When caught, put them in a cage, and 
feed them for several days ; skin and draw the opos¬ 
sum, cut off the legs to the first joint, and part of 


RABBIT CURRY. 


77 


the tail; stuff the head and body like a turkey, and 
roast it before a brisk fire. Opossums are never 
eaten hot. — The Unrivalled Cook-Book. (By per 
Harper & Brothers.) 

De frosts dun come, an’ de ’possum is ripe, 

Oh, Jurangy, ho! 

Better’n any beefsteak, better’n any tripe, 

Oh, Jurangy, ho! 

A rkansaw Traveller. 

Rabbit Curry. 

Select two fine rabbits, cut them into neat pieces; 
put in an earthen crock a thin slice of bacon, add a 
few pieces of rabbit, sprinkle over it a little curry- 
powder, salt, fresh grated cocoanut* and a dozen 
raisins ; put in another layer of rabbit, and season it 
as the first layer; repeat until the rabbit is all used, 
and you have also used the juice and meat of one 
fresh or half a pound of dry cocoanut. Moisten the 
whole with a mild Catawba or Rhine wine; let this 
stand twenty-four hours ; then place the crock in a 
pot of water, and let it simmer two hours, keeping it 
well covered. When done serve it on a flat dish, 
and serve rice separately. — The Book of Entrees : 
Thomas J. Murrey. White, Stokes , & Allen, Pubs . 

Fricassee of Squirrels. 

Put two young squirrels into a pot with two ounces 
of butter, one or two ounces of ham, some salt and 
pepper, and just water enough to cover them. Let 
them stew slowly until tender; take them up, and 
pour half a teacup of cream and a beaten yolk of 
egg into the gravy, and when it has boiled five min- 


78 


BROILED PAR BRIDGES. 


utes, pour over the squirrels in the dish. — Arthur's 
Home Magazine. (By per) 

Broiled Partridges. 

“Time, fifteen to twenty minutes. Partridges, 
gravy, butter, pepper, salt, cayenne. 

“ Thoroughly pick and draw the partridges, divide 
each through the back and breast, and wipe the 
insides. Season them highly with pepper, salt, and 
a very little cayenne, and place them over a clear 
bright fire to broil. When done, rub a piece of fresh 
butter over them, and serve them up hot with brown 
gravy.” 

Fillet of Grouse. 

Remove the breast, and separate into four or six 
pieces. Disjoint and cook the remainder in boiling * 
salted water to cover, till tender; then remove all 
the meat, and chop it fine. Thicken the broth (which 
should be reduced to half a cup), season, and moisten 
the meat. Spread the minced meat on squares of 
toast; put a layer of currant-jelly on each. Rub 
the fillets with butter, and broil them carefully; sea¬ 
son with salt, pepper, and butter, and lay them on 
the jelly. — The Peerless Cook-Book: Mrs. D. A. 
Lincoln. (By per) 

Woodcock Pie. 

Have a good puff-paste made, and with this line 
the sides of your baking-dish. Then have cut a thin 
slice of veal; lay this on the bottom of the dish, and 
season it with salt, pepper, and a little mace, laying 
upon the top of it a thin slice of ham. (The ham, as 


TO TOAST WILD DUCKS. 


79 


well as the veal, should have no fat about it.) Now 
take a couple of brace of woodcock that have been 
carefully plucked, and, without drawing, season them 
with pepper, salt, and mace. Have some bacon cut 
into thin slices, wrap these round the birds, and lay 
them on the ham as closely together as possible, fill¬ 
ing up the spaces around them with hard-boiled eggs 
cut in small pieces. Have ready made some very 
strong beef-gravy; pour a pint of it over the birds, 
lay over the whole a covering of the puff-paste, brush 
it over with egg, and bake for three-quarters of an 
hour in a well-heated oven. This pie is intended to 
be eaten cold. — The Caterer. (By per.) 

To roast Wild Ducks. 

Clean and prepare them as poultry. Crumb the 
inside of a small loaf of baker’s bread, to which add 
three ounces of butter, one large onion chopped fine, 
with pepper and salt to taste. Mix all well together. 
Season the ducks, both inside and out, with pepper, 
salt, and a little sage rubbed fine; then fill them with 
the dressing, and skewer tightly. Place them in the 
pan, back upward ; dredge a little flour over, and a 
tablespoonful in the pan, with water sufficient to make 
gravy. When a nice brown, turn them over; baste 
frequently. Serve with currant-jelly.— Arthur's 
Home Magazine. (By peri) 















- 




» 






















OMELETS, EGGS, AND CHEESE. 

Francis. What can you give us for luncheon? 

Manette. Whatever you are pleased to choose; but, unluckily, 
we have neither beef, veal, nor mutton in the house. 

Sergeant Austerlitz. Well, well, we are not particular; you 
have only to twist the neck of one of your fine fat barn-door fowls, 
and clap it on the gridiron. 

Manette. Why, as to our fowls, gentlemen, I can’t say much for 
our fowls; our fowls are apt to be tough ; but what say you to some 
fine, fresh, new-laid eggs ? If eggs would serve your turn, I could 
make you out the prettiest bill of fare! 

Sergeant Austerlitz. Your larder does not seem likely to 
burst from an overcharge, bright tulip of the Seine! . . . Toss us up 
an omelet, and we will make the best of your fare. — The Maid of 
Croissey: Mrs. Gore. 


Omelette aux Fines Herbes. 

“ Break eight eggs in a stew-pan, to which add a 
teaspoonful of very finely chopped eschalots, one of 
chopped parsley, a half-one of salt, a pinch of pepper, 
and three large tablespoonfuls of cream ; beat them 
well together; then put two ounces of butter in an 
omelet-pan, stand it over a sharp fire, and as soon 
as the butter is sufficiently hot pour in the eggs; stir 
them round quickly until delicately set; shake the 
pan round, then leave it a moment to color the ome¬ 
let ; hold the pan in a slanting position, turn it on 
to your dish, and serve it immediately. It must not 
be too much done.” 

Omelette au Sucre. 

Break four eggs in a bowl; beat them with a fork 
for half a minute; add a tablespoonful of sugar; 

83 



8 4 


OMELET WITH JELLY. 


beat another half-minute. Put a teaspoonful of but¬ 
ter in a frying-pan over a quick fire, and when 
melted, turn the eggs in; stir with a fork, and see 
that it does not burn. When becoming hard, — or 
rather, when the under part is cooked, but the top 
rather liquid yet, — slide it over the dish, and when 
about half of it is on the dish, turn the pan upside 
down so as to fold the omelet over into the form of 
a semicircle ; then dust it with sugar. Have a red-hot 
poker, or other piece of iron, with which just touch 
the omelet in spots, so as to make an ornamental 
design, burning each place slightly, and serve. The 
whole process must be completed in about three min¬ 
utes : the quicker, the better the omelet .—Pierre 
Blot. 

Omelet with Jelly. 

Put a small quantity of lard or oil into the pan, let 
it simmer a few minutes, and remove it ; wipe the 
pan dry with a towel, and put in a little fresh oil in 
which the omelet may be fried ; care should be taken 
that the oil does not burn, which would spoil the 
color of the omelet. Break three eggs separately; 
put them into a bowl, and whisk them thoroughly 
with a fork. The longer they are beaten, the lighter 
will the omelet be. Beat up a teaspoonful of milk 
with the eggs, and continue to beat until the last 
moment before pouring into the pan, which should 
be over a hot fire. As soon as the omelet sets, re¬ 
move the pan from the hottest part of the fire. Slip 
a knife under it to prevent sticking to the pan. 
When the centre is almost firm, slant the pan, work 
the omelet in shape to fold; just before folding add 


OMELET AU R/IUM. 


85 


a teaspoonful of currant-jelly; turn it out on a hot 
dish, dust a little powdered sugar over it, and serve. 
This recipe is from “The Cook,” and has been 
amply tested. (By per) 

Omelet au Rhum. 

Prepare an omelet as has been directed, fold it, 
and turn out on a hot dish; dust a liberal quantity 
of powdered sugar over it, and singe the sugar into 
neat stripes with a hot iron rod heated on the 
coals. Pour a wineglassful of warmed Jamaica rum 
around it, and when on the table set fire to it; with 
a tablespoon dash the burning rum over the omelet; 
blow out the fire, and serve. — Breakfast Dainties: 
Thomas J. Murrey. White, Stokes , & Allen , Pubs. 

Bread Omelet. 

One cup of fine bread-crumbs moistened with half 
a cup of sweet milk; three eggs beaten separately 
and thoroughly, adding the whites last; season with 
salt and pepper to taste. Put in the skillet or fry¬ 
ing-pan a good piece of butter, and when hot, pour 
in the omelet. Leave on the stove a short time, and 
then finish cooking in a warm oven. — Mrs. Matilda 
J. Anderson. 

Plain Omelet. 

Break four eggs into a large bowl; beat them 
thoroughly; season with salt and pepper; take a 
tablespoonful of flour, and mix very smoothly in a 
small teacupful of sweet milk, then pour it into the 
bowl with the eggs, and beat all well; have ready a 
skillet very hot, with a good lump of butter melted 


86 


HAM OMELET. 


in it. Pour in the omelet, and as soon as it becomes 
“ set ” in the middle, turn very carefully. Serve 
hot. 

Ham Omelet. 

“Two eggs, four ounces of butter, half a salt- 
spoonful of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of minced 
ham. Mince the ham very finely, without any fat, 
and fry it for two minutes in a little butter; then 
make the batter for the omelet, stir in the ham, and 
proceed as in the case of a plain omelet. Do not 
add any salt to the batter, as the ham is usually suffi¬ 
ciently salt to impart a flavor.” 

( 

Asparagus Omelet. 

“Boil some tender fresh-cut asparagus in very 
little water with a small portion of salt; or, what is 
better still, steam the asparagus without water until 
it is tender; chop it very fine, mix it with the yolks 
of five and whites of three well-beaten eggs; add 
two tablespoonfuls of sweet cream; fry, and serve 
quite hot.” 

Spanish Omelet. 

Chop up half of a sweet Spanish pepper; peel 
and cut up a large tomato ; cut two ounces of ham 
into dice ; mince three button mushrooms and half 
an onion with a clove of garlic ; season with salt, 
cayenne, and capers. Put the onion and ham in a 
pan, and fry; add the other ingredients, and simmer 
until a thick pulp; add to this an omelet just before 
folding. it, and turning out on a dish. Pour a well- 
made tomato-sauce round it, and serve. 


OMELET FRITTERS. 


87 


The ingredients may be varied to suit the taste. 
— Breakfast Dainties : Thomas J. Murrey. 
White, Stokes, & Allen, Pubs. 

Omelet Fritters. 

Make two or three thin omelets, adding a little 
-sweet basil to the usual ingredients ; cut them into 
small pieces, and roll them into the shape of olives ; 
when cold, dip them into batter, or enclose them into 
puff-paste, fry, and serve them with fried parsley. — 
American Home Cook-Book. Dick & Fitzgerald, 
Pubs. 

Soft-boiled Eggs. 

Put the eggs in a warm saucepan, and cover with 
boiling water. Let them stand where they will keep 
hot, but not boil, for ten minutes. This method will 
cook both whites and yolks. — New Cook-Book : 
Miss Parloa. Estes & Lauriat, Pubs. (By perl) 

There is always a best way of doing every thing, if it be to boil an 
egg. — R. IV. Emerson. 

% • 

Scrambled Eggs. 

Four eggs, one tablespoonful of butter, half a tea¬ 
spoonful of salt. Beat the eggs, and add the salt to 
them. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Turn in the 
beaten eggs, stir quickly over a hot fire for one 
minute, and serve. 

Fricasseed Eggs. 

Boil half a dozen eggs hard, and cut them into 
slices. Then make a sauce as follows: Chop very 


88 


FROTHED EGGS. 


fine a small onion, a little parsley, and two or three 
mushrooms, and put them into a stew-pan with two 
ounces of butter, seasoning with salt and pepper. 
Let them stew gently, but do not brown them. Then 
add a gill of cream mixed with a little flour, for 
thickening the sauce, lay the sliced eggs in, allow all 
to come to a boil, and serve. — The Caterer. (By 
per) 

Frothed Eggs. 

Take the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of 
four, and beat them up with a tablespoonful of water 
and the strained juice of one lemon. Sweeten it to 
taste, add a pinch of salt, and then fry the same as 
an omelet. Have ready the four remaining whites 
whipped to a stiff froth with a pound of pulverized 
sugar, and flavored with vanilla or lemon. Then dish 
the omelet, heap the frothed egg high upon it, and 
put it in the oven for a few minutes to brown. — The 
Caterer. (By per) 

Cheese Fritters. 

“Three ounces of flour, one egg, one gill of tepid 
water, three ounces of grated cheese, a little pepper 
and salt, and one ounce of butter. The flour and 
condiments are put into a basin, and the water added 
by degrees. Then the cheese with the yolk of the 
egg is added, and last the white beaten to a stiff 
froth. Drop this by spoonfuls into boiling lard, 
and cook three minutes. The results are delicious 
golden-brown balls, as big as your fist, permeated 
with the flavor of the cheese.” 


WELSH RAREBIT. 


89 


Welsh Rarebit. 

Grate one pint of cheese ; sprinkle on it half a 
teaspoonful of mustard, one-fourth of a teaspoonful of 
salt, and a speck of cayenne. Heap this on slices 
of buttered toast. Put in the hot oven for a few 
moments, and when the cheese begins to melt, serve 
at once. — New Cook-Book : Miss Parloa . Estes 
& Lauriat , Pubs. (By per .) 

The dairy was certainly worth looking at; it was a scene to sicken 
for with a sort of calenture in hot and dusty streets, — such coolness, 
such purity, such fresh fragrance of new-pressed cheese, of firm 
butter, of wooden vessels perpetually bathed in pure water; such 
soft coloring of red earthenware and creamy surfaces, brown wood 
and polished tin, gray limestone and rich orange-red rust on the iron 
weights and hooks and hinges. But one gets only a confused notion 
of these details when they surround a distractingly pretty girl of 
seventeen, standing on her little pattens, and rounding her dimpled 
arm to lift a pound of butter out of the scale. — Adam Bede: 
George Eliot. 

Curds and Cream. 

One gallon of milk will make a moderate dish. 
Put one spoonful of prepared rennet to each quart 
of milk, and when you find that it has become curd, 
tie it loosely in a thin cloth, and hang it to drain ; 
do not wring or press the cloth ; when drained, put 
the curd into a mug, and set in cool water, which 
must be frequently changed. (A refrigerator saves 
this trouble.) When you dish it, if there is whey 
in the mug, ladle it gently out without pressing the 
curd; lay it on a deep dish, and pour fresh cream 
over it; have powdered loaf-sugar to eat with it; 
also hand the nutmeg-grater. — Virginia Cookery- 
Book : Mrs. Mary Stuart Smith. Harper & Brothers , 
Pubs. (By per.) 


90 


COTTAGE CHEESE. 


Cottage Cheese. 

Take two quarts of clabbered milk, and heat on 
the stove until the curd separates from the whey. 
(Be careful not to cook it.) Place it. to drain in a 
thin muslin, bag for six or eight hours, then take it 
out, put in a dish, and dress it with half a pint of 
cream, and salt and pepper to taste. —Lulie Strohm . 


/ 


CHAPTER IX. 


VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 






VEGETABLES AND SALADS. 

Glittering in the freshened fields, 

The snowy mushroom springs. 

Campbell. 


Mushrooms, Stewed. 

If fresh, let them lie in salt and water about one 
hour, then put them in the stew-pan, cover with 
water, and stew gently until tender. Dress them 
with cream, butter, and flour, as oysters, and season 
to taste. 

Fried Mushrooms. 

Split, and wash carefully; roll them in flour; 
season with salt and pepper, and fry them in butter. 
— Lizzie Strohm. 

Spinach and other Greens. 

“Take spinach , beet, or turnip tops , poke-sprouts , 
curled dock, lamb y s-quarters, etc., and wash thoroughly. 
Put into just enough salted boiling water to cover. 
When tender, squeeze out all the water, and press 
through a colander. Fry a few minutes with a little 
salt, pepper, and butter. Serve with slices of hard- 
boiled egg.” 

Water-Cresses. 

Wash well, pick off decayed leaves, and leave in 
ice-water until you are ready to eat them. They 
should then be shaken free of wet, and piled lightly 


9 


93 



94 


DANDELION SALAD. 


in a glass dish. Eat with salt.— Marion Harland. 
The Post, Washington, D.C. {By peri) 

Dandelion Salad. 

One pint of the plants are carefully washed, and 
placed in a salad-bowl with an equal quantity of 
water-cresses, three green onions or leeks sliced, a 
teaspoonful of salt, and plenty of oil or cream dress¬ 
ing. This is one of the most healthful and refresh¬ 
ing of all early salads. — Cooking Manual : Miss 
Juliet Corson. Dodd, Mead, & Co., Pubs. {By per.) 

Mayonnaise. 

When preparing a mayonnaise in summer, keep 
the bowl as cold as possible. Beat up the yolks of 
two raw eggs to a smooth consistency; add two salt- 
spoonfuls of salt and one of white pepper, and a table¬ 
spoonful of oil. Beat up thoroughly, and by degrees 
add half a pint of oil. When it begins to thicken, 
add a few drops of vinegar. The total amount of 
vinegar to be used is two tablespoonfuls; and the 
proper time to stop adding oil, and to add drops of 
vinegar, is when the dressing has a glassy look, 
instead of a velvet appearance. After a few trials, 
almost any one can make a mayonnaise, as it is very 
simple. — Fifty Salads : Thomas J. Murrey. White, 
Stokes, & Allen, Pubs. 

Cream Dressing. 

Where oil is disliked in salads, the following dress¬ 
ing will be found excellent. Rub the yolks of two 
hard-boiled eggs very fine with a spoon, incorporate 


LETTUCE SALAD. 


95 


with them a dessertspoonful of mixed mustard, then 
stir in a tablespoonful of melted butter, half a teacup¬ 
ful of thick cream, a salt-spoonful of salt, and cay¬ 
enne-pepper enough to take up on the point of a very 
small penknife blade, and a few drops of anchovy or 
Worcestershire sauce; add very carefully sufficient 
vinegar to reduce the mixture to a smooth, creamy 
consistency. — Cooking Manual : Miss Corson . 
Dodd , Mead , & Co. y Pubs. (By per) 

Lettuce Salad. 

“Take two large lettuces, pull off the outer leaves, 
and throw them away; take off the others one by 
one, and cut in two, and wash thoroughly. Cut 
them up, and put in a bowl; sprinkle over a teaspoon¬ 
ful of salt, half a one of pepper, add three of oil and 
two of vinegar, and with a spoon and fork turn the 
salad lightly in the bowl till well mixed ; the less it 
is handled, the better. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs 
sliced. The flower of the nasturtium, intermixed 
with taste and care, improves the appearance of the 
salad.” 

Mustard and Cress. 

“ These, if eaten alone, make an excellent salad. 
Wash quickly, and dress as lettuce.” 

Radishes. 

Radishes should always be freshly gathered. Let 
them be in cold water one hour before serving, then 
cut off all their leaves and almost all their stalk. 
Serve them in glasses half filled with water, or on a 
plate. — Arthur's Home Magazine. (By per) 



q6 


CUCUMBERS . 


Cucumbers. 

“ Let them be as fresh as possible, or they will 
be unwholesome. Pare, cut off the stem end to the 
seeds, and slice in cold water some time before they 
are wanted. Season well with salt, pepper, and vine¬ 
gar. Onions are frequently sliced with them, and are 
an improvement.” 

Melons. 

All varieties of the cantelope family, musk and 
nutmeg melons, are welcome to the summer break¬ 
fast-table. Cut each in half lengthwise; scoop out 
the seeds, put a lump of ice in the hollows thus 
made, and send to table. They are eaten by South¬ 
erners with pepper and salt; at the North, with 
sugar. Give your guests their choice of condi¬ 
ments. — Marion Harland ’ The Post , Washington , 
D.C. 

To cook Asparagus. 

Asparagus must be carefully washed and cleaned, 
and all the tough parts cut off. Put into salted boil¬ 
ing water, and boil until tender. Arrange upon thin 
slices of buttered toast, put some melted butter over 
them, and a little of the liquor in which they were 
stewed. Set in the oven for a few minutes. 

I stick to asparagus, which still seems to inspire gentle thoughts. 
Grace before Meat : Charles Lamb. 

Green Peas stewed with Ham and Lettuce. 

Put a quart of young peas into a bowl of cold 
water, with a piece of butter the size of an egg. 
Work the butter and the peas well together without 


GREEN PEAS. 


97 


mashing them, and then drain them, and put them 
into a stew-pan, adding the hearts of two heads of 
lettuce finely shredded, an onion cut into thin slices, 
a little parsley, and half a pound of ham cut into dice. 
Now cover the stew-pan, and place it over a gentle 
fire, where the contents may stew, shaking the stew- 
pan occasionally that they may not burn, and adding 
a spoonful or two of water if necessary. When the 
peas become tender, take out the ham and the onion ; 
mix a dessertspoonful of flour with a little butter and 
a tablespoonful of cream, and stir this into the peas. 
Simmer them again gently for three or four minutes, 
and serve hot. — The Caterer. (By per.) 

Green Peas. 

Shell and wash, put them into cold water to cook; 
when nearly done, salt them ; when tender (they will 
generally cook in twenty minutes) take them up with 
a little of the liquor in which they were boiled, butter 
and pepper them, and they are much better to add a 
little sweet cream, but will do without. If they are 
cooked immediately upon gathering, they will need no 
sugar; if allowed to remain twelve hours or more, a 
tablespoonful of sugar will be found an addition. A 
sprig of mint or a little parsley may be added. — 
Arthur's Home Magazine. (By per) 

V r - 

And the maize-field grew and ripened, 

Till it stood in all the splendor 
Of its garments green-and yellow, 

Of its tassels and its plumage; 

And the maize-ears full and shining 
Gleamed from bursting sheaves of verdure. 

Hiawatha: H. IV. Longfellow. {Byper. Houghton, Mifflin, 6° Co.) 


SWEET CORN . 


98 

Sweet Corn. 

Husk and clear it of the silk, put it in boiling 
water enough to cover, and boil for twenty minutes 
or half an hour. Send to table on the cob. — Arthur's 
Home Magazine . 

ANOTHER WAY. 

Cut the corn from the cob, and put it in a stew-pan 
with a teacupful of water to each quart of corn ; cover 
it closely, and let it stew gently. Add butter, pepper, 
and salt. — Arthur's Home Magazine. 

Still another excellent way is to prepare and sea¬ 
son corn as above, but stew it in sweet milk instead 
of water. Have sufficient milk to cover it well. 

Corn Oysters. 

“ Take young green corn, grate in a dish ; to one 
pint of this add a small teacupful of flour, one egg, 
half a cup of butter, some salt and pepper, and mix 
well. Fry in butter. Drop by the spoonful, the si 
of an oyster.” 

Succotash. 

“ Common shelled beans may be used for succo¬ 
tash, though Lima beans are the best. Prepare and 
cook the beans as usual. About twenty minutes be¬ 
fore serving, add a quantity of sweet corn cut from 
the cob; season with butter, pepper, and salt, and add 
a little sweet cream. This dish may be prepared with 
pork if desirable.” 

String Beans. 

String, snap, and wash two quarts beans, boil in 
plenty of water fifteen minutes, drain off, and put on 


LENTILS BOILED PLAIN. 


99 


again in two quarts boiling water; boil an hour and 
a half, and add salt and pepper just before taking 
up, stirring in one and a half tablespoonfuls butter 
rubbed into two tablespoonfuls flour and a half-pint 
sweet cream. 

ANOTHER WAY. 

Boil a piece of salted pork one hour, then add beans, 
and boil an hour and a half. — Every-day Cook-Book : 
Miss Neill. (Byper. Belford y Clarke , & Co.) 

Lentils Boiled plain. 

Wash one pound, or one full pint, of lentils (cost 
ten cents) well in cold water, put them over the fire 
in three quarts of cold water, with one ounce of drip¬ 
pings, one tablespoonful of salt, and a saltspoonful of 
pepper (cost about one cent), and boil slowly until 
tender, that is, about three hours; drain off the little 
water which remains ; add to the lentils one ounce 
of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a tea¬ 
spoonful of sugar, and a little more salt and pepper 
if required (cost about three cents), and serve them 
hot.— Twenty-five-Cent Dinners: Miss Juliet 
Corson. O. Judd Co ., Bids. (By per) 

Mashed Potato. 

There is no dish which is capable of being made 
into a delicious one, that is so often set before us in 
an unpalatable, unsavory condition, as the apparently 
simple one of mashed potato. It may be light unto 
flakiness, white, and with a dry creaminess that melts 
in the mouth; or it may be a heavy, sodden, packed- 
down mass, strongly flavored by the old iron pot. 

To insure the former composition, the potatoes 


100 


POTATO HILLOCKS. 


should be put on in boiling water, and allowed from 
twenty to twenty-five minutes for cooking; test them 
at the end of twenty minutes, and if the fork will go 
into them at all, take them right off. Do not wait 
until they are so soft that the piercing of a fork will 
tear them to pieces. Pour every drop of water off, 
set them back on the stove, with the lid off one or 
two minutes to allow the steam to pass off, and then, 
with a wire beater, begin the mashing process, salting 
according to the taste of the family. To a half-gallon 
of peeled potatoes, a teaspoon rounded over with salt 
and a heaping tablespoonful of butter is sufficient. 
When the lumps are thoroughly beaten out, add a 
half-pint, or even a little less, of hot milk, and then 
whip and beat until your arm aches badly. Put them 
into a heated dish, but do not press, pat, or smooth 
them down, and serve immediately. — Commercial 
Gazette , Cincinnati, O. {By per) 

Potato Hillocks. 

Whip boiled potatoes light with a little butter and 
milk, and season with salt and pepper. Beat in a 
raw egg to bind the mixture; shape into small coni¬ 
cal heaps, set in a greased pan in the oven, and as 
they brown glare with butter. The oven must be 
very hot. Slip a cake-turner under each hillock, 
and transfer to a hot platter. — Marion Harland: 
The Post, Washington, D.C. (By per) 

Potatoes au Maitre d’hotel. 

“ Cut cold boiled potatoes into quarter-inch slices, 
and put into a saucepan with four or five tablespoon- 


SARA TOGA POTATOES. 


IOI 


fills of milk, two of butter, some pepper and salt and 
chopped parsley. Heat quickly, stirring all the time 
until ready to boil, when stir in the juice of half a 
lemon. Serve very hot.” 

Saratoga Potatoes. 

Take four large potatoes (new ones are best) ; 
pare, and cut into thin slices on a slaw-cutter; put 
them into salt water, and let stand while breakfast is 
preparing. Then have ready a skillet of boiling lard. 
Take a handful of the potatoes, squeeze the water 
from them, and dry in a napkin; separate the slices, 
and drop into the lard, being careful that the pieces 
do not adhere to each other. Stir with a fork till they 
are a light brown color. Take them out with a wire 
spoon, and drain well before putting into the dish. 
Do not put more than a handful into the lard at a 
time. Do not cover the dish when served. — Pres¬ 
byterian Cook-Book : Mrs. D. W. S., Dayton , O. 
(By per.) 

Potato Scones. 

“Mash boiled potatoes till they are quite smooth, 
adding a little salt; then knead out with flour to the 
thickness required ; toast, pricking them with a fork 
to prevent their blistering. When eaten with fresh 
butter, they are very nutritious.” 

Potato Stew. 

Wash and pare three or four good-sized potatoes, 
and cut them into small pieces; boil until tender; 
then drain off the water, and put in three pints of 
sweet milk; when it begins to boil, add two cupfuls 


102 


POTATO SALAD . 


of nice wheat bread crumbed (not too small); season 
with salt, pepper, and butter. 

Potato Salad. 

Cut up into slices two quarts of boiled potatoes 
while hot; add to them a teaspoonful each of chopped 
onion and parsley; pour over them a liberal quantity 
of plain salad-dressing. If the potatoes should then 
appear too dry, add a little hot water, or, better still, 
soup-stock; toss lightly so as not to break the slices; 
then place the salad on ice to become cold. Serve 
by placing a leaf of lettuce on each small plate, and 
add two tablespoonfuls of the potato to the lettuce, 
for each person. Cold boiled potatoes do not make 
a good potato-salad. — F ifty Salads : Thomas J 
Murrey. White , Stokes, & Allen , Pubs. 

To Boil Sweet Potatoes. 

Wash them perfectly clean, put them into a pot or 
stew-pan, and pour boiling water over to cover them ; 
cover the pot close, and boil fast for half an hour, or 
more if the potatoes are large; try them with a fork; 
when done, drain off the water, take off the skins, and 
serve. 

Cold sweet potatoes may be cut in slices across or 
lengthwise, and fried or broiled as common potatoes. 
— The Every-day Cook-Book : Miss Neill. 

Society expects every man to have certain things in his garden. 
Not to raise cabbage, is as if one had no pew in church. Perhaps we 
shall come some day to free churches and free gardens; when I can 
show my neighbor through my tired garden, at the end of the season, 
when skies are overcast, and brown leaves are swirling down, and not 
mind if he does raise his eyebrows when he observes, “ Ah! I see 
you have none of this, and of that.” At present we want the moral 


BOILED CABBAGE. 


103 


courage to plant only what we need; to spend only what will bring us 
peace, regardless of what is going on over the fence.— My Summer 
in a Garden : Chas. D. Warner. Houghton, Mifflin, 6° Co., Pubs. 
[By per.) 

Boiled Cabbage. 

Cut the cabbage in quarters, and wash very thor¬ 
oughly in cold water. Put it into a pot in which a 
good piece of beef or pork has already been boiling 
for half an hour and been well skimmed. Boil 
until the cabbage is tender, and a little before dish¬ 
ing out put in one-fourth of a teaspoonful of soda. 

To Stew Cabbage a la Cauliflower. 

Parboil in milk and water, and drain it, then shred 
it, put it into a stew-pan with a small piece of butter, 
a small teacupful of cream, and seasoning, and stew 
tender. — Peterson's Magazine . (By per) 

Red Cabbage Stewed. 

After slicing a small red cabbage, and well wash¬ 
ing it, put it into a saucepan with pepper, salt, and 
butter, but no more water than will hang about it 
after the washing. Let dt stew until quite tender', 
and shortly before serving add two or three spoon¬ 
fuls of vinegar, and give it one boil over the fire. 
It may be sent up with cold meat, or with sausages 
on it. — Godey’s Lady's Book. (By per) 

Cream Dressing for Cold Slaw. 

In a small granite stewer beat the yolk of one egg 
(this for a pint of finely shaved cabbage), add a piece 
of butter the size of a nutmeg, two teaspoonfuls of 
sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, a sprinkle of pepper, 


104 


STEWED TOMATOES. 


half a teacupful each of vinegar and water; put on 
the back of the stove to simmer, and stir in a scant 
teaspoonful of flour made smooth with water; when 
boiled, pour over the cabbage. This is a favorite 
dressing. — Commercial Gazette , Cincinnati , O. {By 
per.) 

Stewed Tomatoes. 

Peel and slice a quart of fine ripe tomatoes. Put 
on to stew, and when nearly done add a good-sized 
lump of butter, a little salt and pepper, two teaspoon¬ 
fuls of sugar, and half a teacupful of stale bread¬ 
crumbs. Cook well and thoroughly, stirring often. 

Broiled Tomatoes. 

“ Large solid tomatoes are cut in halves cross¬ 
wise, placed on a gridiron or broiler, and put over a 
brisk fire, cut surface down. In eight or ten minutes, 
according to size, turn, put upon each half salt, 
pepper, and a lump of butter, and cook with the 
skin-side down, rather more slowly than before, about 
as long, or until done. When sufficiently broiled, 
place upon a platter with the cut side up, and nicely 
butter the surface. This gives a proper seasoning 
to the dish, which is now ready for the breakfast- 
table.” 

Tomatoes au Gratin. 

This simple and delicious dish is made by cutting 
some ripe tomatoes in half, putting them in a but¬ 
tered dish with bread-crumbs, butter, pepper, and 
salt, and baking till slightly browned on the top. — 
Arthur's Home Magazine. {Byper) 


BOILED ONIONS. 


105 


I doubt not that all men and women love the onion ; but few con¬ 
fess their love. Affection for it is concealed. Good New-Englanders 
are as shy of owning it as they are of talking about religion. Some 
people have days on which they eat onions — what you might call 
“retreats,” or their “Thursdays.”— My Summer in a Garden: 
Chas. D. Warner. {Byper.) 

Boiled Onions. 

Wash the onions well, and peel, and if large cut 
in half. Boil in several waters, draining well each 
time; and when done, add for seasoning, butter, 
cream or rich milk, and salt and pepper. Cook a 
few minutes after seasoning is added. 

Baked Onions. 

Boil the onions slightly in water; cut in halves, 
and take out the centres. Fill the cups with a 
stuffing of bread-crumbs moistened with an egg and 
a little butter; season with grated cheese, pepper, 
and thyme. Bake in a quick oven, with a little 
gravy to prevent from burning .—Boston Bulletin. 


Turnips a la Poulette. 

Cut the turnips in dice, and put in a saucepan. 
When boiled tender, turn them into a colander. 
Put a little butter and flour in a saucepan, and stir. 
Add a gill of milk, and stir, then the turnips, and 
salt and pepper to taste. — Peterson's Magazine. 


To Stew Celery. 

“ Wash well, and cut into lengths of three or four 
inches; stew them with a little broth until tender; 
then add two spoonfuls of cream, and some floured 


io 6 


BEETS. 


butter seasoned with salt and pepper, and simmer 
all together.” 

Such vegetables as celery ought to lengthen human life, at least, 
to correct its biliousness, and make it more sweet and sanguine.— 
Locusts and Wild Honey: John Burroughs. Houghton, Mifflin, 
6 ° Co., Pubs. (.By per.) 

Beets. 

Clean these nicely, but do not pare them, leaving 
on a short piece of the stalk. Then put on to boil in 
hot water. Young beets will cook tender in an hour ; 
old beets require several hours’ boiling. When done, 
skin quickly while hot, slice thin into your vegetable- 
ciish, put on salt, pepper, and a little butter, put over 
a little vinegar, and serve hot or cold. — The Every¬ 
day Cook-Book : Miss Neill. Belford , Clarke, & Co., 
Pubs. {By per.) 

Parsnip Fritters. 

Boil four or five parsnips ; when tender, take off the 
skin and mash them fine ; add to them a teaspoonful 
of wheat flour and a beaten egg. Put a tablespoon¬ 
ful of lard or beef-dripping in a frying-pan over the 
fire, add to it a saltspoonful of salt ; when boiling 
hot, put in the parsnips, making them in small cakes 
with a spoon ; when one side is a delicate brown, 
turn the other; when both are done, take them on a 
dish, put a very little of the fat in which they were 
fried over, and serve hot. These resemble very 
nearly the taste of the salsify or oyster-plant. — The 
Every-day Cook-Book : Miss Neill. Belford, Clarke, 
& Co., Pubs. 

Squashes. 

“ Cut them up, and remove the seeds, and cook in 
hot water until tender. Then mash them, and dress 
with butter, salt, and pepper.” 


EGG-PLANT. 


I0; 


Egg-Plant. 

Cut the plant into slices one-third of an inch thick, 
without removing the skin. Sprinkle salt over each 
slice, pile them, and cover with a weight to press out 
the juice. Drain, and dip each slice first in fine 
crumbs, then in beaten egg, and again in crumbs, 
and saute them in hot fat. — The Peerless Cook- 
Book : Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. (By perl) 

Rice, Japanese Style. 

Put half a pound of well-washed rice into a double 
kettle, with one pint of milk or water, one heaping 
teaspoonful of salt, and quarter of a medium-sized 
nutmeg grated; boil it until tender, about forty min¬ 
utes ; if it seems very dry, add a little more liquid, 
taking care not to have it sloppy when it is cooked. 
When milk is used, it may be served with milk and 
sugar as a breakfast or tea dish ; when water takes 
the place of milk, the addition of an ounce of butter 
and half a saltspoonful of pepper makes a nice dinner 
dish of it. — Twenty-five-Cent Dinners : Miss Juliet 
Corson. (By per.) 

Baked Macaroni. 

Boil half a pound of macaroni until quite soft; 
put it into a vegetable-dish, with a little mustard, 
pepper, and salt, a small piece of butter, and some 
grated cheese. Bake ten or fifteen minutes. — Pres* 
byterian Cook-Book. (By per) 



CHAPTER X 


PICKLES 






PICKLES. 

Pickled Cucumbers. 

Take small cucumbers, wash them carefully, and 
let them drain, then pack them in a jar. Make a 
brine of a pint of salt to a gallon and a half of water; 
boil and skim it, and when cool pour over the pickles, 
and let them stand for twenty-four hours. Then take 
them out of the brine, wipe them dry, and put in a 
jar. Boil strong vinegar with such spices as desired 
(tie the spices in a little cloth), and when the vinegar 
is cold pour it over the pickles. In a few days they 
will be ready for use. —Miss Lizzie Strohm. 

To Pickle Ripe Cucumbers. 

Pare them, take out the seeds, cut in rings an inch 
thick, then simmer in weak alum-water an hour; take 
them out, drain them, and lay them carefully in a jar. 
Then prepare a sirup of one gallon good vinegar, two 
cups sugar, one ounce cinnamon, and one ounce gin¬ 
ger-root ; pour it hot over your pickles. This is a 
delightful pickle, and will keep, sealed up, a long 
time. — Godey’s Lady's Book. (Byper.) 

Pickled Onions. 

Take small white onions, and peel them ; lay them 
in salt water for two days ; change the water once, 
then drain them in a cloth, and put them in bottles. 



I 12 


GREEN TOMATO PICKLES. 


Boil mace, pepper, and vinegar together; let it cool, 
and pour over the pickles. — Presbyterian Cook- 
Book, Dayton , O. (By per) 

Green Tomato Pickles. 

“ A peck of green tomatoes, sliced ; one dozen 
onions, sliced also ; sprinkle them with salt, and let 
them stand until the next day, when drain them. 
Then use the following as spices : one box of mustard, 
one and a half ounces of black pepper, one ounce of 
whole cloves, one ounce of yellow mustard-seed, one 
ounce of allspice. Put in the kettle a layer of spices, 
and one of tomatoes and onions, alternately. Cover 
them with vinegar : wet the mustard before putting 
it in. Let the whole boil twenty minutes, and you 
will have pickles so good that you will be pestered 
by all your friends asking you for the recipe.” 

Piccalilly. 

Take green tomatoes, chopped very fine; sprinkle 
well with salt, let stand twenty-four hours, drain off, 
and put in a stone jar. Take about half the quantity 
of cucumbers, and the same of cabbage; after they 
are chopped, put into jars separately, and cover with 
cold vinegar. Take about one-quarter as much white 
onions chopped; salt, and pour boiling water on 
them ; let stand a few hours, drain off, and cover 
with vinegar as above. Let all remain several days 
in a cool place, then press very dry, and mix together. 
Add some yellow and black mustard-seed, celery- 
seed, and a bountiful supply of grated horseradish, 
with a few green peppers chopped fine. Then take 


MANGO. 


113 

the best vinegar, and about four pounds of brown 
sugar to each gallon. Boil it in part of the vinegar, 
skim well, and pour over the whole. Add as much 
cold vinegar as is required. — Presbyterian Cook- 
Book : Mrs. J. F. Edgar. 

Mango. 

“A green muskmelon, stuffed and pickled.”— Worcester. 

Take an unripe muskmelon, just before they begin 
to ripen the better, wash it in cold water; cut out a 
small section on the side most rounded, and scoop 
out the seeds and soft pulp; scrape off the soft mat¬ 
ter from the section, and preserve it for the “lid.” 
Pare off the rind carefully, so as to leave all of the 
tender portion of the shell. Put a tablespoonful of 
salt in the cavity, place it in a bowl, and pour hot 
water in and over it, and let it remain eight to twelve 
hours. Then have your filling, —generally of finely 
chopped cabbage, but it is a matter of ta^:e. Beet- 
stems, tender string-beans, radish seed-pods, etc., can 
be used. Three or four small slices of green pepper, 
lining the shell, will spice it; white mustard-seed, or 
any other condiment, is good. A preferable way is 
to tie up in a small piece of muslin the spices you 
desire, and boil them in the vinegar in which you 
pickle it. 

The hot water and salt make the shell soft and 
pliable, and render the “ stuffing ” process easy. 
When filled, stitch the segment cut out of it carefully 
over the aperture. 

A common practice is to “disembowel” a large 
red or green pepper, and fill it with the chopped vege- 


TO PICKLE BEET-ROOT. 


114 

table. But the advantage in the melon is, that the 
rind is better than the best cucumber pickle. —/. 5. 
“ The Elms ,” near Dayton, 0. 

To Pickle Beet-root. 

This vegetable makes an excellent pickle, and 
from the brightness of its color has a very pretty 
effect in a glass pickle-dish or jar. Wash the beet 
perfectly; do not cut off any of the fibrous roots, as 
this would allow the juice to escape, and thus the 
coloring would be lost. Put it into sufficient water 
to boil it, and when the skin will come off it will be 
sufficiently cooked, and may be taken out and laid 
upon a cloth to cool. Having rubbed off the skin, 
cut the beet into thick slices, put it into a jar, and 
pour over it cold vinegar prepared as follows : Boil 
a quart of vinegar with one ounce of whole black 
pepper and an equal weight of dry ginger, and let 
it stand until quite cold. The jar should be kept 
closely corked. — Peterson ’s Magazine . {By per .) 

To Pickle Carrot. 

“ Boil carrots until tender, cut them in fancy shapes, 
and put them in strong vinegar. This is a pretty 
garnish and an excellent pickle. It can be spiced 
or flavored to suit the taste.” 

To Pickle Red Cabbage. 

Cut the cabbage across in very thin slices, lay it 
on a large dish, sprinkle a good handful of salt over 
it, and cover it with another dish ; let it stand twenty- 


TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS . 


115 

four hours ; put it in a colander to drain, and then lay 
it in the jar. Take white-wine vinegar sufficient to 
cover it, a little mace, cloves, and allspice, and put 
them in whole, with one pennyworth of cochineal 
bruised fine, and some whole pepper. Boil it all up 
together, let it stand till cold, then pour it over the 
cabbage, and tie the jar over with leather. — Ameri¬ 
can Home Cook-Book. (By per. Dick & Fitzgerald , 
Pubs.) 

To Pickle Mushrooms. 

Take button mushrooms; rub and clean them with 
flannel and salt; throw some salt over them, and lay 
them in a stew-pan with mace and pepper. While 
the liquor comes from them, keep shaking them well 
till the whole is dried into them again ; then pour in 
as much vinegar as will cover them; warm them on 
the fire, and turn them into a jar. 

Mushrooms prepared in this manner are excellent, 
and will keep for two years.— American Home 
Cook-Book. (By per , Dick & Fitzgerald , Pubs.) 

Pickled Eggs. 

Boil one or two dozen eggs until hard; when cool 
enough, remove the shells carefully, and then put the 
eggs in a jar containing vinegar in which beets have 
been pickled. They will become a deep red, or fine 
pink, according to the hue of the beets. In serving 
the eggs, cut off a thin slice from the large end, 
which will make them stand upright on the dish, and 
stick several cloves in the top of each. They look 
very pretty, and are as good as they look. 


Il6 TO PICKLE NASTURTIUMS . 

To Pickle Nasturtiums. 

Take green nasturtiums fresh from the vines; put 
them in salt and water for one day, then drain in a 
napkin. Put them in glass jars, and cover with 
strong vinegar; keep the bottles closely corked. 
Are equal to capers, with roast lamb. — Presbyte¬ 
rian Cook-Book. Dayton> O. (By per .) 

Pickled Barberries. 

Soak nice large bunches of barberries in salt and 
water for a few hours. Remove from the water, and 
pour scalding vinegar over them. Spice the vinegar 
if you prefer. These are ornamental for salad-gar¬ 
nishing. They may be kept for some time in the 
brine, and freshened when used. — The Peerless 
Cook-Book : Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. Redding & Co ., Pubs. 
(By per) 

To Pickle Walnuts. 

Take one hundred walnuts soft enough to allow a 
needle to pass through them ; lay them in water, with 
a good handful of salt, for two days, then change to 
fresh water and another handful of salt for three 
days ; then drain, and lay them on some clean straw 
or a sieve, in the sun, until quite black and wrinkled ; 
afterwards put into a clean, dry glass bottle or jar a 
quarter of an ounce of allspice, quarter of an ounce 
of mace, quarter of an ounce of ginger, half a pint of 
mustard-seed, and half an ounce of peppercorns; 
these to be mixed in layers with the walnuts until 
your walnuts are all used; then pour over them boil¬ 
ing vinegar to cover them. Ready for use in two 
months. — Godey’s Lady's Book. (By per.) 


TOMATO CATSUP. 


II 7 

Tomato Catsup. No. i. 

Take a half-bushel tomatoes, and peel, steam, and 
strain them ; then boil down, and add one tablespoon¬ 
ful ginger, one-half tablespoonful of cloves, two of 
cinnamon, one of mace, one teaspoonful mustard, one- 
half teaspoonful red pepper, two-thirds teacup of salt, 
and one pint of cider-vinegar. — Osborn ( 0.) Local. 

Tomato Catsup. No. 2. 

“Take ripe tomatoes, and scald them just suffi¬ 
cient to allow you to take off the skin ; then let them 
stand for a day covered with salt; strain them thor¬ 
oughly to remove the seeds; then to every two 
quarts add three ounces of cloves, two of black pep¬ 
per, two nutmegs, and a very little cayenne-pepper, 
with a little salt. Boil the liquor for half an hour, 
then let it cool and settle; add a pint of the best 
cider-vinegar, after which bottle it, corking and seal¬ 
ing it tightly. Keep it always in a cool place.” 

Cucumber Catsup. 

Take one peck of large, ripe cucumbers, peel, 
slice in half, and take out the seeds ; chop very fine; 
add one dozen onions, also chopped fine; salt them 
well, and put to drain in a thin muslin bag for twenty- 
four hours. When taken out, season with one table¬ 
spoonful each of black and white mustard-seed, and 
one large teaspoonful of black pepper; mix thor¬ 
oughly, and add vinegar enough to cover well. (A 
little grated horseradish is an improvement.) Put in 
glass jars or bottles. —Lizzie Strohrn. 


118 


GRAPE CATSUP. 


Grape Catsup. 

Five pints grapes, three pounds sugar, one pint of 
vinegar, cloves and cinnamon unground. Take the 
skins from the pulp, and cook the latter until you can 
separate it from the seeds; then boil the sugar, 
vinegar, pulp, and spices fifteen or twenty minutes, 
and just before taking off add the skins. — Osborn 
( 0 .) Local. 

Spiced Currants. 

“ Five pounds of currants, four pounds sugar, one 
pint of vinegar, four teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, four 
of cloves. Boil three hours. No pepper or salt. 
Delightful with venison or mutton.” 

Pear Pickles. 

Take half a peck of pears halved and cored, lay 
the pieces together, and pack them all closely in a 
preserving-kettle. Add two ounces of cinnamon- 
bark and half an ounce of cloves, two pounds of 
sugar, and one pint of vinegar ; cover them up, and 
set on a slow fire to boil. Boil down until thoroughly 
cooked, requiring two or three hours. Put in a stone 
jar, and cover with white paper wet with brandy. — 
Mrs. Matilda J. Anderson , Dayton , O. 

Pickled Muskmelon. 

Take a ripe melon (cantaloupe), peel, and cut in 
blocks. Then take two tablespoonfuls of pulverized 
alum dissolved in hot water, pour over, and add cold 
water until they are covered. (Press them down 
with a plate.) Let them stand over night, then drain 


PICKLED MUSKMELON . 119 

off, and rinse well in cold water. Take a quart of 
vinegar and two pounds of sugar, boil, and pour 
over. Do this for nine mornings, adding to the 
vinegar and sugar if necessary. The ninth morning 
tie up in a thin muslin bag an ounce of cloves and 
two ounces of cinnamon-bark, boil in the vinegar, 
then add your melon, and boil a short time. In put¬ 
ting the pickle away in a jar, place the muslin bag 
containing the spices, among them on the top : it 
aids in preserving the flavor. — Mrs . Matilda J 
Anderson. 


•*<! 



r? 










CHAPTER XI. 


PRESERVES, JAMS, AND JELLIES, 



- 

* 














PRESERVES, JAMS, AND JELLIES. 

To Preserve Peaches. 

“ The clear-stone yellow peaches, white at the 
stone, are the best. Weigh the fruit after it is pared. 
To each pound of fruit allow a pound of sugar. Put 
a layer of sugar at the bottom of the preserving- 
kettle, and then a layer of fruit, and so on until the 
fruit is all in. Stand it over the fire until the sugar 
is entirely dissolved; then boil them until they are 
clear; take them out piece by piece, and spread them 
on a dish free from sirup. Boil the sirup in the 
pan until it jellies ; when the peaches are cold, fill 
the jars half full with them, and fill up with boiling 
sirup. Let them stand a short time covered with a 
thin cloth; then put on brandied paper, and cover 
them close with corks, skin, or paper. From twenty 
to thirty minutes will generally be sufficient to pre¬ 
serve them.” 

Peach Leather. 

Stew as many peaches as you choose, allowing a 
quarter of a pound of sugar to one of fruit; mash it 
up smooth as it cooks; when it is dry enough to 
spread in a thin sheet on a board greased with butter, 
set it out in the sun to dry; and when dry it can be 
rolled up like leather, wrapped up in a cloth, and will 
keep perfectly from season to season. School chil- 


I2 3 


124 


TO PRESERVE PEARS. 


dren regard it as a delightful addition to their lunch 
of biscuit or cold bread. Apple and quince leather 
are made in the same fashion, only a little flavoring 
of spice or lemon is added to them. These leathers 
are made in the Valley of Virginia, and seldom seen 
elsewhere in the State. — Virginia Cookery-Book : 
Mary Stuart Smith. Harper & Brothers , Pubs. 
(By per.) 

To Preserve Pears. 

For preserving, small pears are better than large 
ones. Pare them, and make a sirup with their 
weight of sugar and a little water. Leave the stem 
on, and stick a clove in the blossom end of each. 
Stew till perfectly transparent.— Arthur's Home 
Magazine. (By peri) 

Preserved Cherries. 

Stone, and to every pound take a pound of sugar. 
Place the fruit and sugar in your kettle in alternate 
layers, and boil and skim until the cherries are 
tender and the sirup is rich.— Arthur's Home 
Magazine. (By per.) 

Preserved Crab Apple. 

“Take the red Siberian crab-apple; leave the 
stems on, and heat slowly to boiling in water suffi¬ 
cient to cover them. When the skins break, skim 
them out of the pan, and remove the skins. Allow 
one and one-fourth pounds of sugar and one teacup 
of water to every pound of fruit. Boil water and 
sugar until the scum ceases to rise. To the sirup 


TO PRESERVE WATERMELON-RINDS . 125 

add the juice of one lemon to every three pounds of 
fruit; add the fruit, boil until tender, and can imme¬ 
diately.” 

To Preserve Watermelon-Rinds. 

Do not cut your rinds too thin ; pare off the out¬ 
side green rind ; soak them two days in clean soft 
water, and then drain them. Take six pounds of 
sugar and three pints of water, boil to a thick sirup; 
then add your watermelon-rinds, and boil until they 
are clear; flavor with orange-flower water; cool, and 
put away in jars for use. — Godey's Lady's Book. 
(By per .) 

Tomato Preserves. 

“ Take the round yellow variety as soon as ripe; 
scald and peel; then to seven pounds of tomatoes 
add seven pounds of white sugar, and let them stand 
over night ; take the tomatoes out of the sugar, and 
boil the sirup, removing the scum ; put in the toma¬ 
toes, and boil gently fifteen or twenty minutes; 
remove the fruit again, and boil until the sirup 
thickens. On cooling, put the fruit into jars, and 
pour the sirup over it, and add a few slices of lemon 
to each jar, and you will have something- to please 
the taste of the most fastidious.” 

To Preserve Tomatoes. 

In many gardens there is a plentiful supply of 
green tomatoes yet on the vines, that will not ripen. 
Allow one-half pound of white sugar to one pound 
of fruit. Put into the preserving-pan, and add just 
enough water to make- sufficient sirup. Do not put 


126 


PRESERVED BARBERRIES. 


too much water at first, as you can add it if there is 
not enough. Lemons should be sliced and put into 
it in the proportion of one lemon to every two 
pounds of fruit. Cook until done through, and the 
sirup looks thick. They make an excellent preserve, 
and taste much like preserved figs. — Public Ledger , 
Philadelphia. (By peri) 

Preserved Barberries. 

Stem the barberries, then drop them either into 
molasses that has been boiling ten minutes (at the 
rate of a quart of fruit to a pint of molasses) or in 
half molasses and half sugar, and then boil ten to 
fifteen minutes, and skim out, and boil sirup slowly 
about ten or fifteen minutes longer; then take off, and 
drop berries in. The addition of hard sweet apples 
is considered an improvement. Pare and quarter 
these, drop them in after berries are skimmed out, 
and boil ten or fifteen minutes, or until apples are 
cooked; when take off, and put back the berries. — 
J. J. H. Gregory. (By per) 

Quince Cheese. 

“ Have fine ripe quinces, and pare and core them. 
Cut them into pieces, and weigh them, and to each 
pound of the cut quinces allow half a pound of the 
best brown sugar. Put the cores and parings into a 
kettle with water enough to cover them, keeping the 
lid of the kettle closed. When you find that they 
are all boiled to pieces, and quite soft, strain off the 
water over the sugar, and when it is entirely dis- 


APPLE BUTTER. 


12 J 


solved, put it over the fire, and boil to a thick sirup, 
skimming it well. When no more scum rises, put 
in the quinces, cover them closely, and boil them all 
day over a slow fire, stirring them and mashing them 
down with a spoon till they are a thick, smooth paste. 
Then take it out, and put it into buttered tin pans or 
deep dishes. Let it set to get cold. It will turn out 
so firm that you may cut it into slices, like cheese. 
Keep it in a dry place, in broad stone pots. It is in¬ 
tended for the tea-table.” 

Apple Butter. 

Boil a barrel of new cider down one half; then dip 
it out into jars, and put in the kettle a couple of 
buckets of cider not boiled. In this put three bushels 
of apples nicely pared and cut in quarters. When 
stewed to a sauce, add the boiled cider. (Keep adding 
this until all is used.) StiT constantly eight or ten 
hours. When done, spice with a teacupful of cinna¬ 
mon, and half as much of cloves. Put away in jars; 
when cool, cover nicely with paper. 

Strawberry Jam. 

Put the fruit into a jar, and stand this in a pan of 
boiling water over the fire. As the boiling proceeds, 
keep mashing the strawberries with a wooden spatula 
until they are all bruised to a pulp. Then put them 
into a preserving-pan, and to every pound add three- 
quarters of a pound of sugar. Boil the whole until 
of due consistence, which will occupy more than half 
an hour, keeping the jam in constant agitation lest 


128 


RASPBERRY JAM. 


the bottom should burn. When done enough, take 
it off the fire, and put it into pots. — Peterson s Maga¬ 
zine. (By per) 

Raspberry Jam. 

Let the raspberries be thoroughly ripe. Mash 
them with a wooden spoon. To every pound of rasp¬ 
berries add a pound of sifted sugar. Boil this well 
together during half an hour, stirring it continually 
lest it should burn. When of a good thickness, 
put it into pots, and proceed to tie up.— Peterson's 
Magazine. (By per) 

Blackberry Jam. 

Six quarts of ripe berries and three pounds of 
brown sugar. Mash together, and put into a kettle 
and boil two hours, stirring frequently. Spice to 
taste, or omit spices altogether. When cool, put it 
into a jar, cover with brandied paper, and seal, and 
it will keep for years.— Arthur's Home Magazine. 
(By per) 

Gooseberry Jam. 

“Stew the berries in a little water, put them 
through a coarse sieve, put them back into the kettle, 
add three-quarters of a pound of sugar to each pound 
of the stewed berries. Boil for about three-quarters 
of an hour; and they will need constant stirring, or 
they will certainly burn. You can easily determine 
whether a jam requires more boiling, by taking a 
small quantity out on a saucer. If it looks bright 
and glistening, and no water-like juice surrounds it 
on the saucer, it is safe to infer that it is done.” 


RHUBARB JAM. 


129 


Rhubarb Jam. No. 1. 

“To seven pounds of rhubarb add four sweet 
oranges and five pounds of sugar. Peel and cut up 
the rhubarb. Put in the thin peel of the oranges and 
the pulp, after taking out the seeds and all the whites. 
Boil all together for an hour and a half.” 


Rhubarb Jam. No. 2. 

“It is best made in June, when the rhubarb is no 
longer young. Take ten pounds of large-sized rhu¬ 
barb, and cut it up; add to it one pound of candied 
peel (viz., citron, lemon, and orange) shred, and 
also the rind of two large fresh lemons chopped fine, 
one pound of sugar to the same weight of fruit, and 
boil like other preserve.” 

Crab-Apple Jam. 

Pare the crab-apples when quite ripe. Put them 
into a stone jar, cover it well, and put it in a pan of 
boiling water for an hour and a half. Then prepare 
the sirup with two pounds of sugar in half a pint of 
water, for every pound of the apples. Clarify the 
sirup. Then put the apples into it, and boil the 
whole to a jam. — Peterson's Magazine. (By per) 

Pine-apple Marmalade. 

To every pound of grated pine-apple allow a pound 
of double-refined loaf-sugar. Boil until thick ; then 
pack in tumblers, and paste over them papers wet with 
the beaten whites of eggs. Keep them in a dry cool 
place until wanted. — Godey 's Lady's Book. (By per) 


130 


APPLE JELLY. 


Apple Jelly. 

Cut off all spots and decayed places on the apples ; 
quarter them, but do not pare or core them; put in 
the peel of as many lemons as you like, about two 
to six or eight dozen of the apples; fill the preserv¬ 
ing-pan, and cover the fruit with spring-water ; boil 
them till they are in pulp, then pour them into a 
jelly-bag; let them strain all night, do not squeeze 
them. To every pint of juice put one pound of 
white sugar; put in the juice of the lemons you had 
before pared, but strain it through muslin ; you may 
also put in about a teaspoonful of essence of lemon. 
Let it boil for at least twenty minutes; it will 
look redder than at first ; skim it well all the time. 
Put it either in shapes or pots, and cover it the next 
day. It ought to be quite stiff and very clear. — 
Godey's Lady's Book . (By per. Pub.) 

Cider Apple Jelly. 

“Cut good, ripe apples in quarters, put them in a 
kettle, and cover them with szueet cider 'just from 
the press. (It should, if possible, be used the day it 
is made, or, at any rate, before it has worked at 
all.) Boil until well done, and drain through a sieve. 
Do not press it through. Measure the liquor, and 
to each pint add one pound of sugar. Boil from 
twenty minutes to half an hour.” 

Quince and Apple Jelly. 

“Cut small, and core, an equal weight of tart 
apples and quinces ; put the quinces in a preserving- 


CURRANT JELL Y. \ 31 

kettle, with water to cover them, and boil till soft; 
add the apples, still keeping water to cover them, 
and boil till the whole is nearly a pulp; put the 
whole into a jelly-bag, and strain without pressing. 
To each quart of juice allow two pounds of lump- 
sugar. Boil together half an hour.” 

Currant Jelly. 

Pick fine red but long-ripe currants from the 
stems ; bruise them, and strain the juice from a 
quart at a time through a thin muslin ; wring it 
gently, to get all the liquid ; put a pound of white 
sugar to each pint of juice ; stir it until it is all dis¬ 
solved ; set it over a gentle fire, let it become hot, 
and boil for fifteen minutes. Then try it by taking 
a spoonful into a saucer; when cold, if it is not 
quite firm enough, boil it for a few minutes longer. 
— Godcy's Lady's Book. (By per) 

Elderberry Jelly. 

Heat the berries, and press out the juice, and to 
every pint of it add a half-pint of sugar. Boil until 
it becomes a thick sirup. The elderberries alone 
will not make a jelly firm enough to turn out of 
tumblers or bowls, but if the juice of grapes is added 
to it, — about one-third of a pint to a pint of elder¬ 
berries, — it then becomes very firm and solid. — 
Miss Lizzie Strokin'. 

Grape Jelly. 

“Strip from their stalks some fine ripe black- 
cluster grapes, and stir them with a wooden spoon 



132 


RED-HA W JELLY. 


over a gentle fire until all have burst, and the juice 
flows freely from them ; strain it off without press¬ 
ure, and pass it through a jelly-bag, or through a 
twice-folded muslin; weigh, and then boil it rapidly 
for twenty minutes ; draw it from the fire, stir in it 
till dissolved fourteen ounces of good sugar, roughly 
powdered, to each pound of juice, and boil the 
jelly quickly for fifteen minutes longer, keeping it 
constantly stirred, and perfectly well skimmed. It 
will be perfectly clear, and of a beautiful pale 
rose-color.” 

Red-Haw Jelly. 

Wash the haws well, and put on in a kettle with 
water sufficient to almost cover them (not too much 
water). Boil until they are soft. When cool enough, 
express the juice thoroughly through a thin muslin 
cloth. To three pints of juice add two pints of 
granulated sugar, and boil until it bubbles. Less 
boiling will answer if it is not desired to mould into 
“shapes ” or “designs.” It is a firm and handsome 
jelly for moulds. The taste is delicious, resembling 
guava jelly .—Lizzie Strohni. 

Strawberry Jelly. 

The fruit, in the first place, should be as fresh 
from the vines as is possible to obtain it, and free 
from all sand or dirt. After picking the hulls from 
them, put the berries into an enamelled preserving- 
pan, and set it by the side of the fire to draw out 
the juice. As soon as this begins to flow freely, 
place the pan over a slow fire, and allow the berries 
to simmer very gently until they begin to soften, 


STRAWBERRY JELLY. 


133 


being careful to remove it before the juice com¬ 
mences to thicken. Then pour them upon a clean, 
dry sieve, and when the juice has drained thoroughly 
through, strain it through two or three thicknesses 
of muslin, and, after weighing it, put it again into 
the preserving-pan. Let it boil briskly for twenty 
minutes, stirring frequently, then remove it from the 
fire, and add the sugar, allowing fourteen ounces to 
each pound of the juice. (Loaf-sugar broken in small 
lumps is the best for the purpose, and should be 
added a little at a time.) As soon as the sugar 
becomes dissolved, place the pan again on the fire, 
and let the jelly boil until done. To test this, take 
a little out, and put it on a plate or saucer; if it 
stiffens, it is done enough. Then pour it into jars, 
cover tightly, and set in a cool dry place till wanted 
for use. — The Caterer. {By per) 





CHAPTER XII. 


BREAD, RUSK, BUNS, ROLLS, AND 

BISCUIT. 








BREAD , RUSKBUNS , ROLLS, AND BISCUIT. 


AUNT CINDY’S DINNER. 

“Well, Cindy,” said the Rev. Mr. Burgiss, “you air goin’ to have 
a chance to-morrow to distinguish you’self.” 

Cindy was a tall and fleshy woman, weighing three hundred and 
seventeen pounds. She was sitting on the block which was seat or 
meat-slab, as the occasion demanded. She rose from this block with 
a heaving, labored motion, which called to mind a steamboat getting 
under way. “ I’s tolerbul distinguished a’ready,” she replied. Per¬ 
haps the speaker found a difficulty in raising and lowering her astonish¬ 
ing lower jaw and double chin. Her words had a queer, smothered 
sound, as though coming through hot mush. “ What’s gwyne on 
ter-morrer ? ” she asked. 

“ Why, we air goin’ to have fou’ persidin’ eldin' yere to dinner 
to-morrow, — yes, fou’ presidin’ elduz.” 

“Good gracious!” exclaimed Aunt Cindy, almost overwhelmed. 
!< Mussy on us ! fou’ puzzidin’ elduz ! Reckons I hab ter stir my stumps 
tolerbul lively ’bout dat dar dinner;” and her eyes, hid away in rolls 
of fat, like pin-heads in a cushion, began to twinkle in anticipation of 
a culinary triumph. “But,” she continued, clouding again, “we-all 
ain’t got no little pig. Can’t git no dinner fit for shucks widouten a 
pig roas’ whole, wid a red apple in its mouf. Mus’ hab a pig some- 
hows, to be sartin.” 

“ Oh, we can get a pig,” said Mr. Burgiss assuredly. “Jus’ sen’ 
Tony over to Brother Phillpotts’s early in the mawnin’ to borrer one. 
Tell him to tell Sister Phillpotts that I’ll return it the fus’ chance. 
An’ now, Cindy, my girl, jus’ do you’ bes’ on that dinner.” 

“ ’Deed, I’ll do my very bes’. Puffidin’ dinner for fou’ puzzidin’ 
elduz is a heap er ’spons’biPty, but I reckons yer’ll fin’ ole Cindy kin 
tote it. Jes’ don’t worrit you’se’f.” . . . 

“ Dat light-bread ought to be sot ter raisin’,” Aunt Cindy solilo¬ 
quized when left alone. She spread out a fat hand on each knee, and 
helped herself up from the meat-block. Then she mounted the bench 
that served as her observatory, and began searching the log sleeper, 
rummaging among the various paper parcels. “ Wonder what’s gone 
widdem twin brudders,” she said (Aunt Cindy was looking for a small 
package of Twin Brothers yeast cakes, which some Yankee had intro¬ 
duced in the neighborhood). “ Dat dar Tony’s gone an’ toted off dem 
dar twin brudders, I’ll be boun’. — To-nee ! To-nee!” she called, at 
the height of her muffled voice. “ I see yer sneakin’ ’hin’ dat dar 
chicken-coop. Yere’d better come yere, ’fo’ I comes dar an’ fotches 
yer wid a peach-tree limb. Hurry ’long outen dat dar snail’s.pace.” 

Tony appeared, looking like a tattered scarecrow with a live head. 

137 


138 


AUNT CINDY'S DINNER. 


“ Whar’s dem dar twin brudders ? I wants ter put one uv um ter 
soak. What yer gone an’ done wid dem dar twin brudders ? ” persisted 
Aunt Cindy. 

“I hain’t done nuffin’t all wid dem dar twin brudders, — nebber 
tetched um,” Tony declared, half frightened, half sullen. 

Hush you’ mouf, yer story-teller! I’ll be boun’ yer’s gone an’ 
feeded all dem twin brudders to de chickens. Yer’s too lazy ter mix 
a little cawn-meal fer um.” 

“ Nebber feeded dem dar twin brudders to de chickens, no more’n 
nuffin,” Tony insisted. 

“How yer reckons I’se gwine ter git dinner fer dem fou’ puzzidin’ 
elduz ef I hain’t got no twin brudders to make de light-bread ? ” 

“ I dun know.” 

“ Ob cou’se yer dun know ; yer dun know nuffin. Come yere while 
I boxes you’ jaw. I boxes yer kase I lubbed you’ gran’mudder. Me 
an’ her uster play togedder when we-all wus bofe gals togedder.” 

Aunt Cindy was heaving and balancing herself, preparatory to a 
descent from the bench on which she was mounted. Down she 
stepped at length, her broad bare foot meeting the dirt floor with a 
heavy thud, — or slap, rather. 

“ Come ’long up yere,” continued Aunt Cindy. Tony was moving 
towards her with a reluctant, bewildered air, his dead grandmother 
and the twin brothers all in a jumble in his brain, when Aunt Cindy 
suddenly exclaimed, “ Bar’s dem twin brudders now, on dat dar jam ! ” 
Tony smiled from ear to ear, in his satisfaction at having escaped the 
impending boxing. “Hush you'grinnin’dar, yer imperance, an’ go 
’’long an’ fotch me some hick’ry-bo’k to cook dat dinner. Wasn’t yer 
’ware I’s got ter git dinner fer fou’ puzzidin’ elduz? ” 

Tony gave a long whistle of astonishment, and went off toward 
the woods. 

While the yeast-cake was soaking, Aunt Cindy set to work collect¬ 
ing materials for a cake; a pound-cake with icing, she had decided 
upon. Although her movements were slow and labored, there were 
strength and force in them, so that she accomplished a surprising 
amount of work. She didn’t lose much time looking for spoons and 
forks. She stirred things with her finger, and with it she tested her 
gravies and sauces and custards. It needed but a few strokes of her 
warm, strong hand, to beat the butter to a cream : a few turns more, and 
the sugar was thoroughly incorporated with this. Then with some 
twigs of crape-myrtle, in lieu of an egg-beater, the yolk of the eggs was 
soon foaming, and the white standing alone. Lastly, she bethought 
her of the cinnamon to make it “tasty,” she said. Panting and blow¬ 
ing, she again ascended her observatory, and began snuffing, tasting, 
and peering at the various paper parcels on the log sleeper." “ Whar 
kin dat cin’mon-bok be at ? ” she said. “ I hain’t seed it sence I tuk it 
to meetin’ to scent my han’kercher. I’ll be bound dat dar Tony’s done 
gone an’ tuck an’ et dat dar cin’mon-bok, ha’r an’ hide. Maybe I put 
it in de big gou’d.” 

She waddled down from the bench and across the shed to a gourd 
as large as a giant pumpkin, and with much the shape of one. She 
turned it bottom up on the dirt floor, and out poured an incredible assort¬ 
ment of things: a fork, three partridge-eggs, a head-kerchief, a pair of 


AUNT CINDY'S DINNER. 


! 39 


slippers, a dish-towel, two peaches, a purple belt-ribbon, a phial of hair- 
oil, a hymn-book, a lump of loaf-sugar, a stick of sassafras-root, a paper 
of saleratus, and another of snuff. “’Tain’t yere.” She looked the 
jambs over, and then, with a majestic waddle, she crossed the yard to 
the house. 

“ Miss Rithy,” she said, when she found herself in Mrs. Burgiss’s 
presence, “I ain’t gwine ter take de ’spons’bil’ty uv no poun’-cake 
widouten cin’mon-bok to puffume it, an’ I hain’t got no cin’mon-bok 
on my premsis.” 

“ Sen’ over to Brother Phillpotts’s an’ borrer a stick,” said the lady 
appealed to, returning to her perforated cardboard, on which she was 
working in rainbow worsteds a church with a man beside it. The 
man was taller than the steeple. . . . 

In process of time, Tony appeared with three small pieces of bark, 
and was, properly or improperly, belabored by Aunt Cindy’s tongue, 
she declaring that she could “ eat all dat dar bok,” and demanding to 
be told how she was “gwine ter cook dinner fer fou’ puzzidin’ elduz 
wid dat thimbulful of bok ? An’ my cakes a-sottin’ yere waitin’ all 
dis while, an’ all dat ’nifikent white froff gittin’ limber, an’ all de lather 
done gone outen dat dar yaller! An’ I beat dat dar egg tell my arm 
ache to de morrer-bone. Yer go ’long an’ hurry an’ cotch ole Jack, 
an’ go to Mis’ Phillpotts’s ter borrer somethin’.” 

Tony hurried off, glad to get away from Aunt Cindy and her uncer¬ 
tain moods. It was over an hour, however, before he got started for 
Mrs. Philpotts’s; for first he had to indulge himself in repeated climb¬ 
ings and slidings on the fodder-stacks; then in divers tumblings and 
leapings in the straw-pen; then he “ skinned the cat ” a few dozen 
times; then he had a thrilling ride round and round the barnyard, 
swinging on old Jack’s tail; then he made a raid on some blackberry- 
bushes in the fence-corner, where he ate berries as long and thick 
as his thumb for ten minutes. Then he put a bridle on the old gray 
mule, mounted its bare back, and entered upon a course of pullings, 
tuggings, and kickings, to fhe end of making the said mule go forward 
to Mrs. Phillpotts’s, instead of backward to its stall, as it seemed de¬ 
termined to do. As all the boy’s thoughts and energies were thus 
engaged, it never occurred to him that he didn’t know what he was 
going for, until he stood in Mrs. Phillpotts’s presence, feeling and 
looking very foolish. Nothing remained to be done but to remount his 
gallant steed, return to Aunt Cindy, and ascertain the nature of the 
something he was to borrow from Mrs. Phillpotts. Oh, how he shrunk 
from the forthcoming interview with Aunt Cindy ! Her dreaded hands 
doubled in size to his frightened fancy, and his ears seemed to tingle 
with the inevitable boxing which Aunt Cindy would be certain to feel 
it her duty to administer, because she loved his grandmother. 

“Wish she nebber lubbed my gran’mammy—wish she hate my 
gran’mammy,” Tony whispered to his beating heart, as on went old 
Jack at a spanking, bouncing trot, that threatened to unhorse the 
rider. It seemed to Tony that no other mule ever trotted so relent¬ 
lessly. Pie clung desperately to the bridle and the roached mane, 
and was trotted on by the merciless brute past the house, through the 
barnyard, and into the stable, Tony throwing himself almost under the 
belly to save himself from being rubbed off in the low doorway. 


140 


YEAST. 


“ Whyn’t yer spen’de night at Mis’ Phillpotts’s ? ” Cindy asked, 
when he appeared in her presence, his eyes distended and rolling in 
frightened anticipation. “ Dat white’s done gone back twict, waitin’ 
on you’ lazy bones. Nobody but a bawn cook could fotch a poun’- 
cake fit fer fou’ puzzidin’ elduz outen sich trib’lations. Don’t yer 
know I’s got ter git dinner fer fou’ puzzidin’ elduz? But, law! yer 
wouldn’t kere ef dey wus fou’ bishops. What do yer kere ’bout rerli- 
gion ? Yer’s so wicked ! Gim me that cin’mon-bok, and don’t stan’ 
dar shilly-shally, like a gobbler on hot tin.” 

Then came Tony’s acknowledgment that he had gone all the way 
to Mrs. Phillpotts’s without once thinking that he did not know what 
he was going for. You should have seen how Aunt Cindy received 
this, when the idea had fairly taken possession of her mind. It went 
to her funny spot. Planting her hands, outspread, on her sides, as if 
to fortify herself against shaking to pieces, she began laughing almost 
without a sound, as though she was too well cushioned to make any 
noise. She quivered all over like a great mass of jelly, swaying back 
and forth, her head falling on her chest, on this shoulder and on that, 
till she fell with a great flop on the meat-block, where she continued 
to sway and roll and quiver. Tony’s intense appreciation of the turned 
tide, expressed in broad grins, in titters, in giggles, in shuffles, in bal¬ 
ancings, in hand-rubbings, was about as funny as Aunt Cindy’s charac¬ 
teristic laughing. Before this laughing was ended, he had made good 
his escape, and in process of events was repeating his tuggings and 
pullings at old Jack’s bridle. It was dark before he returned from 
his errand; for Mrs. Phillpotts not having any cinnamon, had sent a 
runner to Mrs. McDonald for the article. Mrs. McDonald, in turn, 
had sent to Mrs. Doubleday, and Mrs. Doubleday to the cross-roads 
store. Aunt Cindy never went to bed that night — never went to her 
cabin: she sat up with her cake and light-bread. — Aunt Cindy’s 
Dinner : Sarah Winter Kellogg. From Lippincott's Magazine. (By 
per.) 


Yeast. 

Ingredients: One teacupful of lightly broken hops, 
or, if the Shaker packages are used, half a teacupful; 
one pint of sifted flour; one teacupful of granulated 
sugar ; one tablespoonful of salt; four large or six 
medium-sized potatoes; two quarts boiling water. 
Boil the potatoes ; drain off the water when done, 
and let them dry off a few minutes, precisely as for 
table. At the same time, having tied the hops in a 
cloth, boil them half an hour in the two quarts of 
water, renewing it if it boils away. Mix the flour, 



YEAST. 


141 

sugar, and salt well together in a large mixing-bowl, 
and pour on the boiling hop-water slowly, stirring 
constantly. Now add enough of this to the mashed 
potato to thin it till it can be poured, and mix it all 
together, straining it through a sieve to avoid any 
possible lumps. Add to this, when cool, either a 
cupful of yeast left from the last, or of baker’s yeast, 
or a cake of compressed yeast dissolved in a little 
warm water. Let it stand two hours or so till partly 
light, then stir it down two or three times in the 
course of five or six hours, as this makes it stronger. 
At the end of that time it will be light. Keep in a 
carefully corked stone jug, or in glass cans, the last 
being the best; and in all cases be particular to 
have whatever holds it perfectly sweet and well 
scalded. Be as careful with stopper or cover as with 
the vessel itself. 

For dry yeast, stir in corn-meal till a dough is 
made, form it in small, thin cakes, and dry them 
carefully in the sun. For hot weather this is a con¬ 
venient form, as it does not sour. Crumb and soak 
in warm water half an hour before using. 

Potato yeast is made by omitting hops and flour, 
but mashing the potatoes fine with the other ingre¬ 
dients, and adding the old yeast when cool, as before. 
The number of potatoes can be doubled, or left the 
same. It is very nice, but must be made fresh every 
week; while the other, kept in a cool place, will be 
good a month. — Mrs. Helen Campbell. From Good 
Housekeeping. {By per. Pubs) 


142 


BREAD. 


Bread. 

For four medium-sized loaves of bread allow as 
follows : Four quarts of flour ; one large cup of yeast 
(half a pint); one tablespoonful of salt, one of sugar, 
and one of butter or lard; one pint of milk mixed - 
with one of warm water, or one quart of water alone, 
for the “wetting.” Sift the flour into a large pan or 
bowl. Put the sugar, salt, and shortening, in the 
bottom of the bread-pan or bowl, and pour on a 
spoonful or two of boiling water, enough to dissolve 
all; add the quart of wetting and the yeast. Now 
stir in, slowly, two quarts of the flour, beating well ; 
cover with a thick cloth, and set in a temperature 
of about seventy-five degrees to rise until morning. 
Bread mixed at nine in the evening will be ready to 
mould into loaves or rolls by six the next morning. 

In summer it would be necessary to find a cool 
place ; in winter, a warm one ; the chief point being 
to keep the temperature even. If mixed early in the 
morning, it is ready to mould and bake in the after¬ 
noon, from seven to eight hours being all that it 
should stand. This first mixture is called a sponge; 
and if only a single loaf of Graham or rye bread is 
wanted, one quart of it can be measurec} and thick¬ 
ened with either flour as in the rules given hereafter. 
To finish as wheat bread , stir in flour from the two 
quarts remaining to make a dough. Flour the 
moulding-board very thickly, and turn out. Now 
begin kneading, flouring the hands, but after the 
dough is gathered in a smooth lump, using as little 
flour as may be; knead with the palm of the hand 
as much as possible. The dough quickly becomes a 


BREAD. 


143 


flat cake. Fold it over, and keep on kneading, not 
less than twenty minutes, half an hour being better. 
Make into loaves; put into the pans ; set them in a 
warm place, and let them rise from thirty to forty- 
five minutes, or until they have become nearly double 
in size. Bake in an oven hot enough to brown a 
teaspoonful of flour in five minutes, spreading the 
flour on a bit of broken plate that it may have an 
even heat. The pan is an important point, the best 
being made of block-tin or Russia iron. A brick 
loaf bakes most easily, and it is quite worth while to 
have a set of bread-pans made to order, ten inches 
long by four wide and four deep. Loaves of this 
size will bake in from forty-five to sixty minutes. 
Then take them from the pans, wrap them in thick 
cloths kept for the purpose, and stand them tilted 
up against the pans till cold. Never lay hot bread 
on a pine table, as it will sweat, and absorb the pitchy 
odor and taste; but tilt so that the air will pass 
around it freely. Keep well covered in a tin box or 
large stone pot, which should be wiped out every 
day or two, and scalded and dried thoroughly in the 
sun once a week. Pans for wheat bread should be 
greased very lightly ; for Graham or rye, much more, 
as the dough sticks and clings. Instead of mixing 
a sponge, all the flour may be moulded in and kneaded 
at once, and the dough set to rise in the same way; 
when light, turn out. Use as little flour as possible, 
and knead fifteen minutes ; less time being required, 
as part of the kneading has already been done. — 
Mrs. Helen Campbell. From Good Housekeeping. 
(By per. Pubs) 


144 


TO TEST TIIE OVEN. 


To Test the Oven. 

Throw on the floor of the oven a tablespoonful of 
new flour; if it takes fire, or assumes a dark-brown 
color, the temperature is too high, and the oven must 
be allowed to cool. If the flour remains white after 
the lapse of a few seconds, the temperature is too 
low. When the oven is of the proper temperature, 
the flour will turn a brownish yellow, and look 
slightly scorched.— Breakfast Dainties: Thomas 
J. Murrey. White, Stokes , & Allen , Pubs. 

Vienna Bread. 

“Two pounds sifted flour banked around pan, one- 
half pint milk, one-half pint water; mix a thin 
batter; quickly add one-half pint milk, in which 
has been dissolved one-half ounce salt and seven- 
eighths ounce compressed yeast; leave remainder of 
flour against side of pan ; cover and keep free from 
air forty-five minutes ; then mix in rest of the flour 
until dough leaves side and bottom of pan. Let 
stand for two and a half hours. Divide into one- 
pound pieces. Subdivide into twelve pieces. Fold 
corner of each piece to centre, turn over to rise for 
thirty minutes. Put in hot oven, bake twenty min¬ 
utes.” 

French Twist Bread. 

Take one quart of light dough raised with home¬ 
made yeast; mix in a large tabl*espoonful of sweet 
butter, a saltspoon of salt, and one egg; add flour, 
and knead well. Let it rise until light, then knead 
very gently; roll the dough in thin strips, measuring 
an inch in diameter; dredge lightly with flour, and 



145 


AERATED HOME-MADE BREAD. 

braid loosely; let it stand a few moments, and bake 
quickly without burning. — Peterson's Magazine. 
{By peri) 

Aerated Home-made Bread. 

Mix flour and water together to the consistency of 
a thick batter; then beat it until fine bubbles of air 
thoroughly permeate it; for small biscuit, pour it 
into patty-pans, and bake in a good brisk oven; for 
bread in loaves, more flour is thoroughly kneaded in 
with the hands, until the dough is full of air-bubbles, 
and then baked at once, without being allowed to 
stand. — Cooking Manual : Juliet Corson. Dodd, 
Mead , & Co., Pubs. {By peri) 

Gems. 

These are the simplest form of bread, and if prop¬ 
erly made are certain to be light and sweet. A hot 
oven and hot pans are prime essentials, and there 
must be no delay between making and baking. The 
coldest water, ice-water preferred, should be used. 
Use either whole-wheat flour or Graham, three parts 
of flour to one of water being the right proportion. 
For a dozen gems allow one large cup — a half-pint 
— of ice-water, one even teaspoonful of salt, and 
three cups of flour. Stir in the flour slowly, beating 
hard and steadily, not less than ten minutes. The 
pans should have been set on top of the stove, and 
oiled or buttered. Fill them two-thirds full, and 
bake about half an hour. If properly made, they 
are very light, and have the full flavor of the wheat. 
Hygienic cook-books give the same rule as practic¬ 
able for bread, but none tested by the writer has 


14 6 


SALT-RISING BREAD. 


ever been really eatable. Gems can be freshened by 
clipping in cold water and heating quickly, but it is 
best to make no more than will be eaten at once. 
Rye can be used, but with less certainty of a good 
result. — Mrs. Helen Campbell. From Good House¬ 
keeping. {By per Pubs.) 


Salt-Rising Bread. 

Put half a teaspoonful of salt in half a teacupful 
of flour; pour on boiling water; work it well very 
stiff; put this where it will keep warm all night; 
next morning take a pint of milk, warm water, and 
as much salt as before ; mix in flour till you make a 
good muffin-batter; then add the scalded yeast to 
the batter, and set it in warm water till it rises ; then 
add flour to form a stiff dough, and bake. This is 
the favorite bread all through the Valley of Virginia 
and Maryland. Some dyspeptics think it much 
more digestible than bread made up with other 
kinds of yeast. — Virginia Cookery-Book: Mrs . 
Mary Stuart Smith. {By per. Harper & Brothers, 
Pub si) 

We found Mr. Agnew equallie busie with his Apples, mounted ha'f 
way up one of the Trees, and throwing Cherry Pippins down into 
Rose's Apron, and now and then making as though he would pelt her: 
onlie she dared him, and woulde not be frightened. Iler Donkey, 
chewing Apples in the Corner, with the Cider running out of his 
Mouth, presented a ludicrous Image of Enjoyment, and ’twas evidently 
enhanct by Giles' brushing his rough Coat with a Birch Besom, instead 
of minding his owne businesse of sweeping the Walk. The Sun, 
shining with mellow Light on the mown Grass and fresh dipt Horn¬ 
beam Hedges, made even the commonest Objects distinct and cheer- 
fulle ; and the Air was soe cleare, we coulde hear the Village Children 
afar off at theire Play. 

Rose had abundance of delicious new Honey in the Comb, and 
Bread hot from the oven, for our earlie Supper. — Mary Powell : 
Mrs. Manning. 


RUSK. 


H 7 


Honey without the comb is the perfume without the rose, — it is 
sweet merely, and soon degenerates into candy. Half the delectable¬ 
ness is in breaking down these frail and exquisite walls yourself, and 
tasting the nectar before it has lost its freshness by contact with the 
air.— Locusts and Wild Honey: John Burroughs. Houghton. 
Mifflin, 6° Co., Pubs. (By per.) 


Rusk. 

One cup milk scalded and cooled; one tablespoon¬ 
ful sugar ; one-half teaspoonful salt; one-quarter cup 
yeast; two cups flour. 

Mix in a sponge at night, or very early in the 
morning. When well risen, add flour enough to 
make a stiff dough. Knead and let it rise again, then 
add one-fourth of a cup of butter rubbed to a cream, 
half a cup of sugar , and one egg beaten with butter 
and sugar. Let it rise in the bowl till light. Shape 
into small round biscuit; put them close together 
in a shallow cake-pan, that they may rise very high. 
When ready to bake, rub the tops with sugar dis¬ 
solved in milk, sprinkle with dry sugar, and bake 
in a moderate oven.— The Boston Cook-Book: 
Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. Roberts Bros., Pubs. (.By per) 


Buns. 

“ Into a pound and a half of well-dried flour rub 
four ounces of moist sugar; warm a quarter of a 
pint of milk about blood warm, but not hot enough 
to scald the yeast which you will use; make a hole 
in the middle of your flour, and put in a quarter of a 
teacupful, or thereabout, of good thick yeast, which 
is not too bitter, or it will taste in the buns ; pour 
on it your warm milk, and mix with it about one- 
third, or nearly half, of your flour, leaving the rest 


148 


SAFFRON BUNS. 


of the flour unmixed round the sides of your pan. 
Set it in a warm place to rise for three-quarters of 
an hour or an hour. When it has risen well, melt a 
quarter of a pound of butter, and mix it with milk; 
let it be on the fire till about blood warm, and then 
mix it with the rest of the flour and sugar into your 
dough. When mixed, it should be rather softer than 
bread-dough. Put it to rise for about a quarter of 
an hour, and then mould them ; put them on buttered 
iron plates, and then into a warm place to rise light; 
when well risen, bake them in a hot oven. If you 
wish to have currants or caraway-seeds in them, 
mix them in along with the butter; if you wish 
them spiced, mix equal quantities of ground ginger, 
allspice, coriander, and caraway; put as much as 
you think sufficient, when you put in the butter. 
When they are baked enough, brush them over 
with egg and water mixed together, to give them 
a gloss.” 

Saffron Buns. 

“ Make the dough for them the same as for plain 
buns. Put a little of the best saffron in a teacup, 
and pour over a little boiling water; let it stand on 
the top of the oven, to extract the flavor; and when 
you put in the butter, mix in as much of the saffron- 
water as will make the dough of a bright yellow 
color. Bake them as before directed. You may put 
in a few currants, but saffron buns are seldom 
spiced.” 

Hot Cross Buns. 

“Two pounds of flour, half a pound of sugar, and 
a small quantity of grated nutmeg and allspice mixed 


PARICER-HOUSE ROLLS. 


149 


together. Make a hole in the centre of the flour, 
and into it put two tablespoonfuls of yeast, pouring 
in also half a pint of warm milk. With the latter 
and the surrounding flour make a thin batter; cover 
the dish, and let it stand before the fire till the leaven 
begins to ferment. Now add to the whole half a 
pound of butter melted, and sufficient milk to make 
all the flour into a soft paste. Dust it over with 
flour, and let it rise again for half an hour. Make 
the dough into the shape of buns, notch out on each 
the form of the cross, and lay them separately in rows 
on buttered tin plates to rise once more for half an 
hour; after which, put them into a quick oven, watch¬ 
ing them carefully lest the color should be spoiled by 
over-baking.” 

Parker-House Rolls. 

One teacup home-made yeast, a little salt, one 
tablespoonful sugar, a piece of lard size of an egg, 
one pint milk, flour sufficient to mix. Put the milk 
on the stove to scald, with the lard in it. Prepare 
the flour with salt, sugar, and yeast. Then add. the 
milk, not too hot. Knead thoroughly when mixed 
at night; in the morning but very slight kneading is 
necessary. Then roll out, and cut with large biscuit- 
cutter. Spread a little butter on each roll, and lap 
together. Let them rise very light, then bake in 
a quick oven.— The Every-day Cook-Book: Miss 
Neill. (By per. Belford , Clarke , & Co.) 

Brown Biscuit. 

Three cups of Graham flour, one cup of white 
flour, one tablespoonful of lard and the same of but- 


i 5 o 


EGG BISCUIT. 


ter; one tablespoonful of brown sugar, two teaspoon- 
fills of baking-powder, one teaspoonful of salt, two 
cups of milk. Sift brown and white flour, sugar, 
baking-powder, salt, into a bowl; rub or chop in the 
shortening; wet up with the milk into a soft dough ; 
roll out half an inch thick, handling as little as pos¬ 
sible, and with as few strokes of the rolling-pin ; cut 
into round cakes, and bake quickly in a floured pan. 
— Marion Harland. The Post , Washington , D. C. 
(By per.) 

Egg Biscuit. 

Two cups of warm milk, two eggs, two heaping 
tablespoonfuls of butter, half a cake of compressed 
yeast dissolved in warm water, one quart of sifted 
flour, one teaspoonful of salt; mix with the butter 
(melted but not hot) the yeast, salt, and three cups 
of flour together over night, and set in a covered 
bowl to rise. Early in the morning add the beaten 
eggs and the rest of the flour, and set for a second 
rising of an hour or longer. When light roll into a 
sheet almost an inch thick, cut into round cakes, and 
lay in a floured baking-pan. At the end of half an 
hour bake in a good oven. They are delicious cold 
or hot.— Marion Harland. The Post , Washington , 
D.C. (By per) 

Naples Biscuit. 

“ Beat eight eggs; add to them one pound of 
flour, one pound of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful 
of essence of lemon. Bake in a quick oven.” 


SODA BISCUITS. 


15 I 


Soda Biscuits. 

One quart of flour, a pint of buttermilk, half a 
teaspoonful of soda dissolved in the milk; half a tea¬ 
spoonful of salt ; a piece of lard about the size of a 
large egg, rubbed in the flour. Mix well together, 
roll out about an inch thick, and cut into biscuits. 
Bake in a quick oven.— Mrs. Matilda J. Anderson , 
Dayton , O. 

Drop Biscuit. 

One quart of flour, three teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder, tablespoonful of sugar, half a teacup of lard 
worked in the flour; add sweet milk enough to make 
a thick batter. Drop in little pans or muffin-rings, 
and bake. 

Flyaways, or Souffle Biscuits. 

Rub four ounces of butter into one quart of flour 
sifted, add a saltspoonful of salt, and make into a 
paste with milk. Knead well, handling lightly, and 
roll out until they are as thin as paper and the size 
of a common saucer; stick here and there with a 
fork, and bake in a moderate oven until they look 
flaky and white. 

Butter, four ounces. 

Flour, one quart. 

Milk, one-half pint. 

Salt, one saltspoonful. — Virginia Cookery-Book : 
Mrs. Mary Stnart Smith. Harper & Brothers , Pubs. 
(By per) 

Scotch Scones. 

“ Sift half a spoonful of soda into a quart of flour, 
and mix in rich buttermilk enough to make a dough as 



152 


FRENCH TOAST. 


stiff as for soda-biscuit. Roll out half an inch thick, 
and bake on a hot griddle in two large cakes the 
size of dinner-plates. Serve with dishes of Dundee 
marmalade.” 

French Toast. 

“ Beat four eggs very light, and stir with them a 
pint of milk; slice some baker’s bread, dip the pieces 
into the egg, then lay them in a pan of hot lard, and 
fry brown; sprinkle a little powdered sugar and cin¬ 
namon on each piece, and serve hot. If nicely pre¬ 
pared, this is an excellent dish for breakfast or tea.” 


CHAPTER XIII. 



BROWN BREAD, HOT CAKES, ETC 







BROWN BREAD, HOT CAKES, ETC. 

> Margaret seated herself on the door-step to eat her supper, con¬ 
sisting of toasted brown bread and watered cider, served in a curiously 
wrought cherry bowl and spoon. The family were taking their meal 
in the kitchen. The sun had gone down. The whippoorwill came 
and sat on the butternut, and sang his evening note, always plaintive, 
always welcome. The night-hawk dashed and hissed through the 
woods and the air, on slim, quivering wings. A solitary robin chanted 
sweetly a long time from the hill. Myriads of insects revolved and 
murmured over her head. Crickets chirped in the grass and under 
the decaying sills of the house. She heard the voice of the waterfall 
at the Outlet, and the croaking of a thousand frogs in the Pond. 
She saw the stars come out, Lyra, the Northern Crown, the Serpent. 
She looked into the heavens, she opened her ears to the dim evening 
melodies of the universe; yet as a child. She was interrupted by the 
sharp voice of her mother, “ Go to your roost, Peggy! ” 

“ Yes, Molly dear,” said her father, very softly, “ Dick and Robin 
are asleep: see who will be up first, you or the silver rooster; who 
will open your eyes first, you or the dandelion? ”— Margaret: Syl¬ 
vester Judd. (By per. Roberts Brothers.) 


Brown Bread. 

Make ready: one even cup of Indian meal; two 
heaping cups of rye meal; one teaspoonful of salt, 
and one of soda, mixed together with the sifted meal 
in a large bowl; one cupful of molasses, in a quart 
measure or small bowl, with spoon ; a large beat¬ 
ing spoon ; palette-knife, to scrape your mixture 
from the bowl; a tin bread or pudding boiler, well 
buttered. 

Stir the meal, salt, and soda, dry, until thoroughly 
mingled. Pour one pint of hot water to the molasses, 
and stir it up. Pour the molasses and water into the 


155 




156 y • MAIZE MUFFINS. 

middle of your meal, stirring to a smooth batter as 
in previous directions; beat all quickly and well for 
several minutes ; it should be of a consistence to 
stir easily, and break in pouring, but not to run. 
With some qualities of molasses, you may need to 
add from a spoonful or two to half a cup more of 
warm water, to make it right. 

Put into your tin boiler, cover tight, and put this 
into an iron kettle with boiling water in it. Cover 
the kettle also. Boil steadily for three hours, look¬ 
ing from time to time to see if the water in the 
kettle is boiling away. Keep it replenished, always 
from boiling water. Take the bread-boiler out at 
the end of the three hours, and set it into the oven 
for about ten minutes ; longer if the oven is not 
quick. This is to dry the outside steam off, and 
form a tender crust. Put hot upon the table; cut 
and help hot.— Just How: A Key to the Cook- 
Books : Mrs. A. D. T. Whitney. Houghton , Mifflin , 
& Co ., Pubs. (By per) 

Maize Muffins. 

Shredded maize deserves special mention, as being 
the highest and most scientific product of corn that 
has been introduced for public consideration. From it 
a most excellent porridge can be made in ten minutes. 
Griddle-cakes, sweet puddings, and especially break¬ 
fast-rolls made of it, are delightful. Most excellent 
muffins are prepared as follows : Mix together one 
pound of shredded maize, one pint of hot milk, a tea¬ 
spoonful of salt, and one ounce of butter ; let it cool, 
and whisk into it three beaten eggs, one ounce of 


JOHNNY - CA KE. 


15 7 


sugar, and two teaspoonfuls of wheat baking-powder; 
mix thoroughly; half fill the muffin-rings, and bake 
in a hot oven. — Breakfast Dainties : Thomas J. 
Murrey. White , Stokes , & Allen, Pubs. 

Johnny-Cake. 

Sift one quart of Indian meal into a pan; make a 
hole in the middle, and pour in a pint of warm water, 
adding one teaspoonful of salt ; with a spoon mix 
the meal and water gradually into a soft dough; stir 
it very briskly for a quarter of an hour or more, till it 
becomes light and spongy; then spread the dough 
smooth and evenly on a straight, flat board (a piece 
of the head of a flour barrel will serve for this pur¬ 
pose) ; place the board nearly upright before an open 
fire, and put an iron against the back to support it; 
bake it well; when done, cut it in squares ; send it 
hot to table, split and buttered. — Virginia Cookery- 
Book : Mary Sticart Smith. Harper & Brothers , Pubs. 
(By per) 

It was Lois and her father, — Joe Yare being feeder that night. 
They were in one of the great furnace-rooms in the cellar, — a very 
comfortable place that stormy night. Two or three doors of the wide 
brick ovens were open, and the fire threw a ruddy glow over the stone 
floor, and shimmered into the dark recesses of the shadows, very home¬ 
like after the rain and mud without. Lois seemed to think so, at any 
rate, for she had made a table of a store-box, put a white cloth on it, 
and was busy getting up a regular supper for her father,— down on 
her knees before the red coals, turning something on an iron plate, 
while some slices of ham sent up a cloud of juicy, hungry smell. 

The old Stoker had just finished slaking the out-fires, and was 
putting some blue plates on the table, gravely straightening them. 
He had grown old, as Polston said, — Holmes saw, stooped much, 
with a low, hacking cough ; his coarse clothes were curiously clean: 
that was to please Lois, of course. She put the ham on the table, and 
some bubbling coffee, and then, from a hickory-board in front of the 
fire, took off, with a jerk, brown, flaky slices of Virginia johnny-cake. 
— MARGRET Howth : Mrs. R. //. Davis. (By per.) 


158 


CORN-MEAL FLAPJACKS. 


J 


Corn-Meal Flapjacks. 

“ One quart boiling milk, two cups of white corn- 
meal. Cook on griddle. Serve rolled, with sugar 
between.” 

Corn Bread. 

“ One quart sour milk, three eggs, two tablespoon¬ 
fuls butter, one tablespoonful sugar, one-quarter tea¬ 
spoonful salt, one teacup flour, and enough corn-meal 
to make a good batter; one teaspoonful soda, or enough 
to make the milk frothy. Stir thoroughly. Bake in 
long pans.” 

Fried Mush. 

Into two quarts of boiling water, stir corn-meal, 
until it makes a smooth mush ; boil half an hour; 
add salt, and stir briskly. Have hot, in a skillet, one 
tablespoonful each of lard and butter; drop the boil¬ 
ing mush into the skillet in little pats ; fry a light 
crisp brown on both sides. — Presbyterian Cook- 
Book: Mrs. W. A. B. } Dayton , O. 

Hominy Drop-Cakes. 

“ One pint of fresh boiled hominy (or cold hominy 
may be used; if the latter, break into grains, as 
lightly as possible, with a fork, and heat in a farina- 
kettle without adding water), one tablespoonful of 
water, two eggs — whites and yolks beaten sepa¬ 
rately. Stir the yolks into the hominy first, then 
the whites, and a teaspoonful of salt if the hominy 
has not been salted in cooking; or, if it has, use half 
a teaspoonful. Drop, in tablespoonfuls, on well-but¬ 
tered tin sheets, and bake to a good brown in a quick 
oven.” 


SALLY LUNN. 


159 


Sally Lunn. 

“One quart of flour, butter the size of an egg, 
three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two eggs, two teacup¬ 
fuls of milk, two teaspoonfuls of cream-tartar and 
one of soda, a little salt. 

“ Stir the sugar, cream-tartar, and salt in the flour, 
add the eggs without beating, the butter melted, and 
the milk with the soda dissolved in it.” 

* Rice Waffles. 

Rub through a sieve one pint of warm boiled rice; 
add to it a tablespoonful of dry flour, two-thirds of 
a teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder. Beat separately the yolks and whites of 
three eggs ; add to the yolks three gills of milk, 
work it into the flour, then add an ounce of melted 
butter; beat the whites of eggs thoroughly; mix the 
whole together. Heat the waffle-iron, and grease it 
evenly (a piece of salt pork is best for this purpose) ; 
pour the batter into the half of the iron over the 
range until nearly two-thirds full, cover, allow to 
cook a moment, then turn and brown slightly on the 
other side. — The Cook. (By per) 

Rye Muffins. 

Two cups rye, one-half cup of flour, one egg, one- 
fourth cup molasses, milk to mix quite soft; two 
scant teaspoons Royal powder sifted with meal and 
flour. Have your pans very hot before putting in 
the mixture .—From “ Woman s Hour)' Boston Globe. 
(By per) 


i6o 


OATEN CANES. 


x Oaten Cakes. 

A quarter of a pound of butter to two pounds of 
oatmeal, then add as much water as will just work 
them together, but the less the better, and hot water 
is best; roll them out with a rolling-pin, as thin as 
possible. One side should be done on the griddle, 
and the other on the toaster. — Dainty Dishes : 
Lady Harriet St. Clair. 

Frumenty. 

Boil wheat till it comes to a jelly, and to a quart 
of this add, by degrees, two quarts of new milk. Stir 
and boil till well mixed. Beat the yolks of three 
eggs with a little nutmeg, and sugar to sweeten it 
to taste ; stir this well in over the fire ; pour it into 
deep dishes, and eat either hot or cold. — Dainty 
Dishes : Lady Harriet St. Clair. 

I own that I am somewhat of a devotee. I love to keep all festi¬ 
vals, to taste all feast-offerings, from fermety (or irumetry, frumentum) 
at Christmas, to the pancakes at Shrovetide. These things always 
seem better on those days; as the bread “in the holy days ” is ever 
better than the bread at school, though it come from the same oven. 
— Essays of Elia : Charles Lamb. 




CHAPTER XIV. 


PUDDINGS. 




* 






PUDDINGS. 

AN APPLE PUDDING. 


One morning, a little while after our party, mother was making an 
apple-pudding for dinner, when Madam Pennington and Miss Eliza¬ 
beth drove round to the door. 

Ruth was out at her lessons. Barbara was busy helping Mrs. 
Holabird. Rosamond went to the door, and let them into the brown 
room. 

“ Mother will be sorry to keep you waiting, but she will come di¬ 
rectly. She is just in the middle of an apple-pudding.” 

Rosamond said it with as much simple grace of pride as if she had 
had to say, “ Mother is busy at her modelling, and cannot leave her 
clay till she has damped and covered it.” Her nice perception went 
to the very farthermost; it discerned the real best to be made of 
things, the best that was ready made, and put that forth. 

“And I know,” said Madam Pennington, “ that an apple-pudding 
must not be left in the middle. I wonder if she would let an old 
woman, who has lived in barracks, come to her where she is ?” 

Rosamond’s tact was superlative. She did not say, “I will go and 
see.” She got right up, and said, “ I am sure she will ; please come 
this way,” and opened the door, with a sublime confidence, full and 
without warning, upon the scene of operations. 

“ Oh, how nice!” said Miss Elizabeth; and Madam Pennington 
walked forward into the sunshine, holding her hand out to Mrs. Ilola- 
bird, and smiling all the way from her smooth old forehead down to 
the “seventh beauty” of her dimple-cleft and placid chin. 

“ Why, this is really coming to see people ! ” she said. 

Mrs. Holabird’s white hand did not even want dusting. She just 
laid down the bright little chopper with which she was reducing her 
flour and butter to a golden powder, and took Madam Pennington’s 
nicely gloved fingers into her own, without a breath of apology. 
Apology! It was very meek of her not to look at all set up. 

Barbara rose from her chair, with a red ringlet of apple-paring 
hanging down against her white apron, and seated herself again at her 
work when the visitors had taken the two opposite corners of the 
deep, cushioned sofa. 

The red cloth was folded back across the end of the dining-table; 
and at the other end were mother’s white board and rolling-pin, the 
pudding-cloth wrung into a twist out of the scald, and waiting upon a 
plate, and a pitcher of cold water with ice tinkling against its sides. 
Mother sat with the deal bowl in her lap, turning and mincing with 
the few last strokes the light, delicate dust of the pastry. The sun- 

163 


164 


BOILED APPLE PUDDING. 


shine — work and sunshine always go so blessedly together — poured 
in, and filled the room up with life and glory. 

“ Why, this is the pleasantest room in all your house ! ” said Miss 
Elizabeth. 

“ That is just what Ruth said it would be when we turned it into a 
kitchen,” said Barbara. 

“ You don’t mean that this is really your kitchen ! ” 

“ I don’t think we are quite sure what it is,” replied Barbara, laugh¬ 
ing. “We either dine in our kitchen, or kitch in our dining-room; 
and I doa’t believe we have found out yet which it is.” 

“ You are wonderful people ! ” 

“ You ought to have belonged to the army, and lived in quarters,” 
said Mrs. Pennington. “ Only you would have made your rooms so 
bewitching, you would have been always getting turned out.” 

“ Turned out ? ” 

“ Yes; by the ranking family. That is the way they do. The 
major turns out the captain, and the colonel the major. There’s no 
rest for the sole of your foot till you’re a general.” 

Mrs. Holabird set her bowl on the table, and poured in the ice- 
water. Then the golden dust, turned and cut lightly by the chopper, 
gathered into a tender, mellow mass, and she lifted it out upon the 
board. She shook out the scalded cloth, spread it upon the emptied 
bowl, sprinkled it snowy thick with flour, rolled out the crust with a 
free quick movement, and laid it on into the curve of the basin. Bar¬ 
bara brought the apples, cut up in white, fresh slices, and slid them 
into the round. Mrs. Holabird folded over the edges, gathered up 
the linen cloth in her hands, tied it tightly with a string, and Barbara 
disappeared with it behind the damask screen, where a puff of steam 
went up in a minute that told the pudding was in. Then Mrs. Hola¬ 
bird went into the pantry-closet and washed her hands, that never 
really came to need more than a finger-bowl could do for them, and 
Barbara carried after her the board and its etceteras, and the red 
cloth was drawn on again, and there was nothing but a low, comfort¬ 
able bubble in the chimney-corner to tell of housewifery or dinner. 

“ I wish it had lasted longer,” said Miss Elizabeth. “ I am afraid 
I shall feel like company again now.” — We Girls: Mrs. A. D. T. 
Whitney. Houghton , Mifflin , 6° Co., Pubs. [By per.) 


Boiled Apple Pudding. 

“ Make a butter crust, or a suet one, using for a 
moderate-sized pudding from three-quarters to one 
pound of flour, with the other ingredients in propor¬ 
tion. Butter a basin, line it with some of the paste ; 
pare, core, and cut the apples into slices, and fill 
the basin with these; add sugar to taste, flavor with 



1 


SPANISH FRUIT PUDDING . 1 65 

lemon peel and juice, and cover with crust; pinch 
the edges together; flour the cloth, place it over the 
pudding, tie it securely, and put it into plenty of 
fast-boiling water. Let it boil from one and a half 
to two and a half hours, according to the size; then 
turn it out of the basin, and send it to table 
quickly.” 

Spanish Fruit Pudding. 

Line a baking-dish with a light puff-paste; add a 
layer of shredded pine-apple, and cover it with pow¬ 
dered sugar; add a layer of sweet oranges sliced ; 
strew over them a thin layer of sugar ; next add a 
layer of sliced bananas with sugar strewn over them. 
Repeat the process until the dish is full. Cover the 
dish with a light puff-paste, and bake to a delicate 
brown. — Puddings and Dainty Desserts : Thomas 
J. Murrey. White, Stokes, & Allen, Pubs. 

Apple Dumplings. 

Add to two cups sour milk one teaspoonful soda 
and one of salt, half cup butter or lard, flour enough 
to make dough a little stiffer than for biscuit; or, 
make a good baking-powder crust ; peel and core 
apples •; roll out crust, place apples on dough, fill 
cavity of each with sugar, incase each apple in coat¬ 
ing of the crust, press edges tight together (it is nice 
to tie a cloth around each one), put into kettle of 
boiling water slightly salted, boil half an hour, taking 
care that the water covers the dumplings. They are 
also very nice steamed. 

To bake, make in the same way, using a soft 
dough; place in a shallow pan, bake in a hot oven, 


BROWN BETTY. 


166 

and serve with cream and sugar. — Every-day Cook- 
Book : Miss Neill. Bel ford, Clarke, & Co., Pubs. 
{By per .) 

C-holds that a man cannot have a pure mind who refuses 

apple-dumplings. I am not certain but he is right. — Grace before 
Meat; Charles Lamb. 

Brown Betty. 

“Take one cup bread-crumbs, two cups chopped 
sour apples, one-half cup sugar, one teaspoonful cin¬ 
namon, two tablespoonfuls butter cut into small bits. 
Butter a deep dish, and put a layer of chopped apple 
at the bottom ; sprinkle with sugar, a few bits of 
butter, and cinnamon ; cover with bread-crumbs, then 
more apple ; proceed in this way until the dish is full, 
having a layer of crumbs on top. Cover closely, and 
steam three-quarters of an hour in a moderate oven, 
then uncover and brown quickly. Eat warm with 
sugar and cream or sweet sauce. This is a cheap but 
good pudding.” 

Gateau des Pommes. 

“Take a few apples, boil them with as little water 
as possible, and make them into apple-sauce; then 
add a pound and a half of sugar, and the juice of a 
lemon; boil all together till quite firm, and put it 
into a mould. Garnish it with almonds stuck over 
it. It will keep for months if allowed to remain in 
the mould.” 

Sunday Apple-Sauce.. 

Core and bake, filling the holes with sugar, seven 
or eight apples. When very soft, mash them through 
a sieve into a small pudding-dish ; grate in the rind 
of a fresh lemon, and spread over the top the white 



I 


RICE MERINGUE . 167 

of one egg beaten with half a cup of sugar, and brown 
slightly. Eat cold. —From “ Woman's Hour," Boston 
Globe. (By perl) 

Rice Meringue. 

One cup boiled rice, one large pint milk, two eggs, 
one large cup sugar, one lemon. Boil the milk, sta¬ 
in the rice. Beat yolks with one-third of the sugar, 
then add to the milk and rice, and cook until thick 
as soft custard. Take from the fire, and grate in rind 
of lemon ; pour into a buttered dish. Beat whites 
with the rest of sugar, and add juice of lemon ; pour 
over pudding, and brown. A delicious pudding. — 
From “ Woman's Hour," Boston Globe. (Byper .) 

Rogrod. 

“ It is made of the juice, in equal parts, of two 
fruits, — cherries and currants, or raspberries, — with 
one-third water, and sugar to suit the taste. Thicken 
with rice, flour, or sago; boil, and turn into moulds. 
Serve with sugar, cream, and powdered cinnamon.” 

Rice Black-cap Pudding. 

“ Butter a pudding-basin, stick raisins or prunes 
all over the bottom, and pour into the centre a tea¬ 
cupful of dry rice, this quantity being sufficient for 
a basin that will hold a pint of water. Tie a cloth 
tightly over the basin, and plunge it into boiling 
water. Boil for an hour, when it will turn out a nice 
shape, with the raisins or prunes covering the top of 
the rice, which form the black cap. It can be eaten 
with sugar and butter, or sirup, or plain pudding- 
sauce.” 


168 


INDIA N—MEAL PUDDING . 


Indian-Meal Pudding. 

One cup of yellow Indian meal, one quart and a 
cupful of milk, three eggs, half a cup of molasses, 
one generous tablespoonful of butter, one teaspoon¬ 
ful of salt, one pint of boiling water, half teaspoonful 
each of cinnamon and mace. Scald the salted meal 
with the water. Heat the milk in a farina-kettle; 
stir in the scalded meal, and boil, stirring often, for 
half an hour. Beat the eggs light; put in the butter 
and molasses, stirred together until they are several 
shades lighter than at first; add the spice ; lastly, the 
batter from the farina-kettle, beaten in a little at a 
time, until all the ingredients are thoroughly incor¬ 
porated. Grease a pudding-dish ; pour in the mixture, 
and bake, covered, in a steady oven, three-quarters of 
an hour. Remove the lid, and brown. This is the 
genuine, old-fashioned New-England “ Indian ” pud¬ 
ding. Eat with sauce, or with cream and sugar. It 
is very nice. — Marion Harland. The Post , Wash - 
ington , D.C. {By per) 

Florentine Pudding. 

“ Put a quart of milk into your pan, let it come to 
a boil; mix smoothly three tablespoonfuls of corn¬ 
starch and a little cold milk ; add the yolks of three 
eggs beaten, half a teacup of sugar; flavor with va¬ 
nilla, lemon, or any thing your fancy suggests ; stir 
into the scalding milk, continue stirring till the con¬ 
sistency of starch (ready for use), then put into the 
pan or dish you wish to serve in. Beat the whites 
of the eggs with a teacup of pulverized sugar ; spread 


BAKED CUSTARDS. 


169 


over the top ; place it in the oven a few minutes, 
till the frosting is pretty brown. Can be eaten with 
cream, or is good enough without. For a change you 
can bake in cups.” 

Baked Custards. 

“ One quart of milk, five eggs, one cup of sugar, 
and a very little salt. Season with nutmeg, or flavor 
with rosewater, or any essence preferred. Fill the 
cups, and set them into a tin of hot water, and bake 
the custards in a moderate oven. When you think 
they are done, try them with the handle of a teaspoon 
Inserted at the edge, as they are spoiled by over-bak¬ 
ing. Some persons like blanched almonds cut very 
fine in the custard. If added, use only a little flavor 
of any other kind.” 

Amber Pudding. 

“ Put twelve ounces of finely powdered loaf-sugar, 
and a pound of butter, into a saucepan ; melt the 
butter, and mix both well: then add the yolks of fif¬ 
teen eggs well beaten, and as much candied orange, 
beaten to a fine paste, as will add color and flavor. 
Line the dish with paste for turning out, fill it up 
with the above, lay a crust over the top, and bake in 
a slow oven.” 

Bread Pudding. 

“ Take one pint of bread-crumbs soaked in one 
quart of sweet milk, one-half cup of white sugar, 
two eggs beaten thoroughly, heaping teaspoonful of 
butter, and salt to suit the taste; half cup of raisins ; 
stir well together, and bake.” 



170 ENGLISH TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

English Tapioca Pudding. 

“One cup of tapioca, three pints fresh milk, five 
eggs, two spoonfuls of butter, one cup of sugar, half 
pound of raisins seeded and cut in half, half the 
grated peel of one lemon. 

“ Soak tapioca one hour in a pint of the milk, pour 
into jar, and set in a pot of warm water, and bring to 
a boil. When the tapioca is soft all through, turn 
out to cool somewhat, while you make the custard. 
Beat the eggs very light; rub butter and sugar to¬ 
gether ; mix all with the tapioca, the fruit last. Bake 
in buttered dish one hour.” 

Chocolate Pudding. 

Add one ounce of grated chocolate to a quart of 
milk, boil thoroughly, flavor with vanilla ; set aside to 
cool, then stir in the yolks of six eggs well beaten ; 
bake in a buttered pudding-dish until it stiffens like 
custard. Beat the whites of six eggs, with a table, 
spoonful of powdered sugar, to a stiff froth ; spread 
over the top of the pudding; return to the oven, and 
brown quickly.— Puddings and Dainty Desserts: 
Thomas J. Murrey. White, Stokes , & Allen, Pubs. 

Strawberry Shortcake. 

One cup of powdered sugar, one tablespoonful of 
butter, three eggs, one rounded cup of prepared flour, 
two tablespoonfuls of cream, one generous quart of 
berries. Rub the butter and sugar to a cream, whip 
in the beaten yolks, the milk, the whites, at last the 
flour. Bake in three jelly-cake tins, and let the cakes 


( 


COMPOTE OF GOOSEBERRIES. \ji 

get cold. Cut the berries into halves, and lay be¬ 
tween them, sprinkling the strata with sugar. Sift 
sugar on the topmost layer. Slice, and eat with cream. 

.— Marion Harland. The Post , Washington , D. C. 

Doubtless God might have made a better berry than the strawberry, 
but, doubtless, God never did. — Dr. Boteler. 

We may well celebrate it with festivals and music. It has that 
indescribable quality of all first things, — that shy, uncloying, provok¬ 
ing, barbed sweetness. It is eager and sanguine as youth. It is born 
of the copious dews, the fragrant nights, the tender skies, the plentiful 
rains of the early season. The singing of birds is in it, and the health 
and frolic of lusty nature. It is the product of liquid May, touched 
by the June sun. — Locusts and Wild Honey: John Burroughs. 
Houghton , Mifflin , dr 3 Co., Pubs. (By per.) 


Compote of Gooseberries. 

Choose a quart of large, sound, ripe, green goose¬ 
berries (cost ten cents), remove the stems and tops, 
throw them into boiling water for two minutes ; drain 
them, let them lie three minutes in cold water con¬ 
taining a tablespoonful of vinegar to restore their 
color, and then drain them quite dry. Meantime 
make a thick sirup by boiling one pound of sugar 
(cost twelve cents) with one pint of water. As soon 
as the sirup has boiled about ten minutes, put in the 
gooseberries, and boil them gently until just tender,— 
about ten minutes. Then pour both fruit and sirup 
into an earthen or glass dish, cool, and use. The 
dish will cost less than twenty-five cents. — Twenty- 
five-Cent Dinners : Miss Juliet Corson. 0. Judd 
Co., Pubs. (By per.) 

Blackberry Flummery. 

“Stew blackberries, moderately sweetened with 
sugar, until soft; mix a thickening of flour and water, 


T 72 HUCKLEBERRY PUDDING. 

and stir into the berries. Continue stirring while it 
boils, until the whole becomes incorporated into a 
mass just sufficiently thick to pour into moulds; 
when cold turn out for dessert. To be eaten with 
milk or cream and sugar.” 

Black as Beauty’s tresses, 

Sweet as Love’s caresses, 

Darlings of the people, beloved of high and low; 

Dear to age and childhood, 

Gleaming in the wildwood, 

Peeping to the sunshine in every green hedgerow ; 

Berries of the bramble, 

How I love to ramble 

Through the shady valleys, and pluck you as I go ! 

Blackberries : Charles Mackay. 

Huckleberry Pudding. 

One pint of best Orleans molasses ; a pinch of 
salt; one teaspoonful cloves, and one of cinnamon ; 
one of soda dissolved in a teacupful of sweet milk ; 
flour enough to make it the consistency of pound¬ 
cake ; one quart of huckleberries; boil two and a 
half hours in a pudding-mould. Eat with cream and 
sugar, or pudding-sauce. — Presbyterian Cook-Book. 
Dayton, O. {By per.) 

Roly-Poly. 

Take one quart of flour ; make good biscuit crust; 
roll out one-half inch thick, and spread with any kind 
of fruit, fresh or preserved ; fold so that the fruit will 
not run out; dip cloth into boiling water, and flour it, 
and lay it around the pudding closely, leaving room 
to swell; steam one or one and one-half hours ; serve 
with boiled sauce. Every-day Cook-Book : Miss 
Neill. Be If or el, Clarke, & Co., Pubs. {By per) 


< 


ENGLISH CHRISTMAS PLUM PUDDING. 173 

English Christmas Plum Pudding. 

“ One pound of raisins, well stoned ; one pound cur¬ 
rants, well washed ; one-quarter pound suet, finely 
chopped; one-quarter pound flour, or bread finely 
crumbled ; three ounces of sugar; one ounce and a 
half of grated lemon-peel, a blade of mace, half 
a small nutmeg, one teaspoonful of ginger; six eggs, 
well beaten ; work well together; put into a cloth, tie 
firmly, leaving room to swell, and boil not less than 
five hours. It should not be allowed to stop boiling.” 

Cup Plum Pudding. 

Take one cup each of raisins, currants, flour, 
bread-crumbs, suet, and sugar; stone and cut the 
raisins, wash and dry the currants, chop the suet, 
and mix all the above ingredients well together; then 
add two ounces of cut candied peel and citron, a 
little mixed spice, salt, and ginger, say half a tea¬ 
spoonful of each ; stir in four well-beaten eggs, and 
milk enough to make the mixture so that the spoon 
will stand upright in it; tie it loosely in a cloth, or 
put in a mould ; plunge it into boiling water, and boil 
for three and a half hours. — Boston Budget. 

Molasses Sauce. 

One cupful of molasses, half a cupful of water, one 
tablespoonful of butter, a little cinnamon or nutmeg 
(about half a teaspoonful), one-fourth of a teaspoon¬ 
ful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. 

Boil all together for twenty minutes. The juice 
of a lemon can be used instead of the vinegar. This 


174 


APRICOT SAUCE. 


sauce is nice for apple or rice puddings.— New 
Cook-Book : Miss Parloa. Estes & Lauriat, Pubs. 
(By peri) 

Fruit-Sirup Sauce. 

One cup fruit-sirup, one-half cup sugar, one tea- 
spoonful corn-starch, one teaspoonful butter. Use 
the sirup from apricots, peaches, cherries, quinces, 
or any fruit you prefer. The amount of sugar will 
depend upon the acidity of the fruit. Mix the corn¬ 
starch with the sugar, add the sirup, and boil all 
together five minutes. Add butter last. — The Peer 
less Cook-Book : Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. Redding & 
Co., Pubs. (Byper.) 

Hard Sauce. 

Beat to a cream a quarter of a pound of butter, add 
gradually a quarter of a pound of sugar; beat it until 
very white; add a little lemon-juice, or grate nutmeg 
on top.— The Every-day Cook-Book: Miss Neill. 
Bclford, Clarke, & Co., Pubs. (Byper.) 

Foaming Sauce 

May be made, all but adding the hot water, a long 
time before using. Cream half a cupful of butter, 
add to it one cupful of powdered sugar, then the un¬ 
beaten white of one egg, and any flavoring you choose. 
When the time comes for serving, add slowly an 
eighth of a cupful of boiling water; then set the 
bowl into another of hot water, and stir till the sauce 
is smooth, but not oily, — say about two minutes. — 
Public Ledger, Philadelphia. (By peri) 


PLAIN PUDDING-SAUCE. 


175 


\ , 

Plain Pudding-Sauce. 

\ ~ 

“To three pints of boiling water, add, to thicken, 
three tablespoonfuls of wheat-flour mixed smooth in 
a little cold water; put in a tablespoonful, or more, 
of sugar, a lump of butter, and flavor with nutmeg 
and essence of lemon or vanilla. ,, 



CHAPTER XV. 


PIES AND SMALL CAKES. 











/ 




PIES AND SMALL CAKES. 

Murrey’s Pie-crust. 

It is our firm conviction, that the average pie of 
to-day is the direct cause of more ill-nature and gen¬ 
eral “ cussedness ” in mankind than any thing else, 
and that there lurks more solid, downright dyspepsia 
in a square inch of baker’s pie than in all the other 
dyspeptic-producing compounds known. The pie we 
desire to see upon the American table is one that is 
more the receptacle for fruit, than a blending of fruit 
with puff-paste so soggy that lead would digest 
almost as easily. When a top is used, let there 
be but little of it, and so light and delicate that 
“fairy footfalls” would break through it. 

Sift together one quart of flour, a teaspoonful of 
salt, and a tablespoonful of Horsford’s baking-pow¬ 
der ; add gradually three gills of milk; work to a 
dough, divide into four parts, and roll out the desired 
size. This crust when eaten is not harmful. — Pud- 

N _ 

dings and Dainty Desserts : Thomas J. Murrey. 
White, Stokes , & Allen, Pubs. 

Flake Pie-crust. 

“Take one-half cup of lard to a pint of flour; rub 
well together; add water sufficient to make a dough 
(not too stiff); roll out, and spread with butter, dust 
with flour, fold over evenly, and roll out again. Re¬ 
peat this several times (spreading with butter, folding 

179 


9 


i8o 


RHUBARB PIE. 


over, and rolling out again). Keep your crust as cold 
as possible : use ice-water in mixing. Pastry is bet¬ 
ter when rolled out on marble.” 

Rhubarb Pie. 

Take the tender stalks of rhubarb, strip off the 
skin, and cut the stalks into thin slices. Line deep 
plates with pie-crust; then put in the rhubarb, with 
a thick layer of sugar to each layer of rhubarb; a 
little grated lemon-peel improves the pie. Cover the 
pies with a crust, press it down tight upon the edge 
of the plate, and prick the crust with a fork, so that 
the crust will not burst while baking, and let out the 
juices of the pie. Rhubarb-pies should be baked 
about an hour, in a slow oven : it will not do to bake 
them quickly. Some cooks stew the rhubarb before 
making it into pies, but it is not so good as when 
used without stewing. — American PIome Cook- 
Book. Dick & Fitzgerald, Pubs. (By perl) 

Green-Apple Pie. 

Stew and strain the apples, and sugar to your 
taste ; grate the peel of a fresh lemon, or flavor with 
rosewater. Bake in a rich paste half an hour. — 
Godey's Lady ’s Book. (By per.) 

Dried-Apple Pie. 

To a pint of stewed dried apples, passed through 
a colander, add a pint of sweet milk, three eggs, 
and three large tablespoonfuls of sugar, beaten well 
together as for custard. Spice with a teaspoonful of 
cinnamon, and half a teaspoonful of ground cloves. 


PEACH PIES, 


181 


Bake with upper and under crusts. This quantity 
will make two pies. —Lizzie Strohm. 

Peach Pies. 

Take good ripe peaches, halve and stone them ; 
make a good short crust, and lay it in your pie-plates ; 
lay your peaches evenly to cover it; then add to 
each moderate-sized pie about three spoonfuls of 
white sugar, and a few drops of essence of lemon 
or rose, and half a teacupful of water ; cover, and 
bake like other pies. — Godey's Lady ’s Book. 

Prune Pie. 

“ Stew the prunes until soft, then cool, and remove 
the stones. Fill your dish with them, sweeten, and 
spice with a little cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. 
Bake with upper and under crust.” 

Tomato Pie. 

Take ripe tomatoes, wash, peel, and cut in thin 
slices ; fill a pie-dish lined with good paste with 
them; sprinkle well with sugar, and sift a little 
cinnamon and grated nutmeg over; add two tea¬ 
spoonfuls of vinegar, and one of lemon-essence; 
cover with crust, and bake .—Lulic Strohm. 

Pumpkin Pie. 

Wash, cut into halves, and slice a yellow “Yankee 
pumpkin ; ” scrape out the seeds and the stringy por¬ 
tions lying next to them, peel, and lay the slices in a 
steamer over a pot of boiling water. When they can 
be easily pierced by a fork, take off, and, after 


182 


SQUASH PIE. 


emptying the pot of its water, turn the pumpkin into 
it, and set back on to a moderate fire ; leave it uncov¬ 
ered, and stir frequently to prevent scorching, until 
it seems quite dry, which should be in about fifteen 
minutes ; while hot, press it through a coarse sieve 
with a potato-masher. Now to one pint of pumpkin 
take three eggs, the yolks and whites beaten separ¬ 
ately ; into the yolks stir a small teacup of soft light- 
brown sugar, half a teaspoonful of cinnamon, and a 
grate or two of nutmeg; if ginger is preferred as 
a flavoring, a very scant teaspoonful may be used, and 
half a teaspoonful of salt. Stir this to a cream, mix 
with the pumpkin, and add a quart of milk; beat the 
whites of the eggs, and stir all well together. Do 
not have the crust too short, else there will be 
trouble in getting the pie from the pan. Roll quite 
thin, bake well in the bottom, and remove from the 
oven when the pie is firm in the centre. This will 
result in a pumpkin pie “ fit to set before the king.” 

■— Commercial Gazette , Cincinnati , O. (.By per .) 

Ah! on Thanksgiving Day, when from East and from West, 

From North and from South, come the pilgrim and guest, 

When the gray-haired New-Englander sees round his board 
The old broken links of affection restored, 

When the care-wearied man seeks his mother once more, 

And the worn matron smiles where the girl smiled before, 

What moistens the lip, and what brightens the eye, 

What calls back the past, like the rich pumpkin pie ? 

The Pumpkin : J. G. Whittier. {Byper. Houghton , Mifflin, dr 3 Co.) 

Squash Pie. 

“One cup stewed squash, one-half cup of sugar, 
two eggs, and milk enough to fill pie-plate. First 
line pie-plate with crust, then beat eggs and sugar 


CUSTARD PIE. 183 

together, adding squash and milk. Season with cin¬ 
namon, nutmeg, and allspice, to suit the taste. Bake 
till well done.” 

Custard Pie. 

“Take three eggs beaten thoroughly, two heap¬ 
ing tablespoonfuls of white sugar, one pint of milk, 
nutmeg to suit the taste, and a little salt; stir all 
together, adding the eggs last.” 

Cream Pies. 

I _ ; __- 

“ Make the crust as usual, and spread on the tins. 
For each pie take one-half cup of pulverized sugar 
and nearly as much of sifted flour; rub together dry, 
and spread over the crust. (It is quite essential that 
the flour and sugar should be well mixed before 
uniting with the cream, as it prevents all possibility 
to lumps.) Pour over it one cup of sour cream, and 
a few spoonfuls of sour or loppered milk, stir gently 
into the flour and sugar. Grate over a little nutmeg, 
and bake in quick oven. It is better to place an 
iron grate in the oven under the pies, as they are 
liable to Tun over’ if too hot at the bottom. These 
pies are always in good demand. If sweet cream is 
used, no milk should be added. They should always 
be eaten fresh, but are good cold or warm.” 

Cocoanut Pies. 

One cocoanut grated, four eggs, one-half cup butter, 
two and one-half cups sugar, one pint milk. If the 
desiccated cocoanut is used, take two and one-half 
cups, and soak in milk two or three hours. — “ Wo¬ 
man's Hour } " Sunday Globe , Boston, Mass. (Byper) 


184 


LEMON PIE. 


Lemon Pie. No. 1. 

“Take juice and grated rind of one lemon; stir 
together with three-fourths of a cup of white sugar 
and one cup of water ; lastly, stir in four eggs, well 
beaten, reserving the whites of two for frosting. 
Fill into crust, and bake. For frosting beat the 
whites of two eggs reserved, to a stiff froth, with a 
tablespoonful of powdered sugar; spread over the 
top evenly, and return to oven until slightly 
browned.” 

Lemon Pie. No. 2. 

“To one lemon cut in thin slices, add one teacup 
ful of sugar, and a tablespoonful of flour mixed with 
the sugar. Fill up with water, and bake slowly.” 

Orange Pie. No. 1. 

“ One orange grated, five crackers rolled fine, a 
pint of sweet milk, two eggs well beaten, sugar to 
sweeten. Bake as custard.” 

Orange Pie. No. 2. 

“Make a cake of one and a half cups of sugar, 
one-half cup of butter, two-thirds of a cup of milk, 
two cups of flour, three eggs ; one teaspoonful of 
cream-tartar in the flour, one-half teaspoonful of soda 
in the milk. Flavor with the juice and grated rind 
of an orange. Bake it in low tins as for Washington 
pie. When cool, add the juice of two oranges, and 
the grated rind of one orange, mixed with sufficient 
granulated sugar to thicken and sweeten it; spread 
this like jelly between the layers of the cake. Frost, 


RAISIN PIE. 185 

if you like, with the' white of one egg, a small cup 
of sugar, and flavor with orange.” 

Raisin Pie. 

“One lemon, juice and yellow rind; one cup of 
raisins, one cup water, one cup rolled crackers, one 
cup of sugar. Stone the raisins, and boil in water to 
soften.” , 

Mincemeat without Brandy. 

Take six pounds of beef from the shoulder, and 
boil fast for a few moments so as to seal up the pores 
of the meat; then more slowly until quite tender, 
salting as if for table use. Allow it to simmer down 
as dry as possible without scorching, thereby saving 
all the juice of the meat. If this is not successfully 
done, use the liquor which is left, in the mincemeat. 
It must be perfectly cold before chopping. To 
every pint of meat take three cups of chopped 
apple. If the pies are preferred cold, use, instead 
of suet, two pints of melted butter; otherwise, one- 
half the quantity of butter and one pound of finely 
chopped suet will do ; the juice of three lemons ; 
three pints of brown sugar (if this quantity does 
not sweeten sufficiently, add cautiously to suit the 
taste); three pounds of raisins, the largest of them 
cut in two and seeded ; two pounds of well-washed 
currants ; two gallons of sweet cider (if it has fer¬ 
mented, add another half-gallon, and boil in a gran¬ 
ite or porcelain kettle an hour and a half) ; two 
heaping teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, one level spoonful 
each of cloves and pepper, two small nutmegs, and, 


EDITOR'S DOUGHNUTS. 


186 

if citron is liked, one-half pound cut into small pieces. 
It should be mixed one day at least before using, and 
will keep two weeks in cold weather; or it may be 
heated thoroughly and canned. If more spices are 
liked, they can be added : better not enough than too 
much. — Commercial Gazette , Cincinnati , O. (By per.) 

I was happy to find my old friend, minced-pie, in the retinue of the 
feast; and finding him to be perfectly orthodox, and that I need not 
be ashamed of my predilection, I greeted him with all the warmth 
wherewith we usually greet an old and very genteel acquaintance.— 
The Sketch-Book: Christmas Eve : Washington Irving. {By per. 
G. P. Putnam's Sons.) 

Editor’s Doughnuts. 

“ One cup of sugar, one of buttermilk, one tea¬ 
spoonful of soda dissolved in the milk, one egg, 
tablespoonful of lard, one-fourth of a nutmeg, and a 
little cinnamon ; flour to make stiff enough to roll. 
Cut in shapes, and drop into boiling lard ; when taken 
out and partly cool, dip in powdered sugar.” 

Crullers. 

“ One cup of sugar, two eggs, one large spoonful 
of butter, two and a half spoonfuls baking-powder, 
flour sufficient to roll, flavor to taste. Fry as dough¬ 
nuts.” 

Sour-Cream Cookies. 

“ One cup of sour cream, one cup of sugar, two 
eggs, one teaspoonful (not heaping) of soda, a little 
salt, and flour enough to make a soft dough ; flavor 
with caraway-seeds.” 

Jumbles. 

“ One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one cup 
of milk, four eggs, one, teaspoonful soda, six cups 





GINGER-SNAPS. 18 / 

flour, a little nutmeg. Roll them out, cut them with 
a tumbler and a wine-glass to form a ring ; dust over 
with the white of an egg, and sift on a little sugar 
before baking.” 

Ginger-Snaps. 

“ One pint of molasses, one-half pound sugar, two 
tablespoonfuls ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, 
half pound of butter. Mix well, and roll thin.” 

Soft Gingerbread. 

“ Half pint of buttermilk, half pint molasses, half 
teacup butter, teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot 
water, one tablespoonful of ginger, teaspoonful cin¬ 
namon, and half a nutmeg. Stir in flour until it is a 
thick batter. Bake in square pans half an hour.” 

Ginger Horse-Cakes. 

“One quart of flour, one pint of best Orleans 
molasses, one cupful of sugar, tablespoonful and a 
half of ginger, two small teaspoonfuls of soda, half 
a cupful of sour cream, and a heaping tablespoonful 
of lard. Sift the flour first, and then sprinkle the 
ginger well through it; add the sugar and molasses, 
putting in lastly the soda dissolved in the cream. 
Obtain from a tinner a cutter shaped like a horse, for 
cutting out the cakes.” 

Rock Cakes. 

Mix well together four ounces each of butter and 
sugar (cost twelve cents); add four ounces of well- 
washed currants (cost three cents), one pound of 
flour (cost four cents), and three eggs (cost three 


188 


ROCK CAKES . 


cents) ; beat all these ingredients thoroughly ; roll 
them into little balls, or rocks, and bake them on a 
buttered baking-pan. A good supply will cost about 
twenty-two cents.— Twenty-five-Cent Dinners: 
Miss Juliet Corson. O.Judd Co., Pubs. {By per.) 




4 







CHAPTER XVI.. 


CAKES, DESSERTS, ICE-CREAMS, TEA, 
COFFEE, CHOCOLATE. 


# 


r 



r ' 








> 


CAKES, DESSERTS, ICE-CREAMS, TEA, 
COE FEE, CHOCOLATE . 


THE PARTY. 

Donald and Dorry joined the merry line, wondering what was 
about, to happen—when, to their great surprise (ah, that sly Uncle 
George, and that innocent Liddy!), the double doors leading into the 
dining-room were flung open, and there, sparkling in the light of a 
hundred wax candles, was a collation fit for Cinderella and all her 
royal court. I shall not attempt to describe it, for fear of forgetting 
to name some of the good things. Imagine what you will, and I do 
believe there was something just like it, or quite as good, upon that 
delightful table, so beautiful with its airy, fairy-like structures of 
candied fruits, frostings, and flowers; its jagged rock of ice where 
chickens and turtles, made of ice-cream, were resting on every peak 
and cranny; its gold-tinted jellies, and its snowy temples. ... At 
this very moment, Gory Danby, quite unconscious of the feast up¬ 
stairs, was having his own private table in the kitchen. Having grown 
hungry for his usual supper of bread and milk, he had stolen in upon 
Norah, and begged for it so charmingly, that she was unable to resist 
him. Imagine his surprise when, drowsily taking his last mouthful, 
he saw Fandy rush into the room with a plate of white grapes. 

“Gory Danby! ” exclaimed that disgusted brother, “I’m ’shamed 
of you! What-you stuffin’ yourse’f with common supper for when 
there’s a party upstairs ? Splendid things, all made of sugar! Pull 
off that bib now, an’ come along!” — Donald and Dorothy- 
Mrs. Mary Mapes Dodge. Roberts Bros., Rubs. {By per.) 


Angel Cake. 

The whites of eleven eggs, one and a half cup¬ 
fuls of granulated sugar; one cupful of pastry-flour, 
measured after being sifted four times; one tea¬ 
spoonful of cream of tartar, one of vanilla extract. 
Sift the flour and cream of tartar together. Beat 
the whites to a stiff froth. Beat the sugar into the 



192 


SILVER CAKE. 


eggs, and add the seasoning and flour, stirring 
quickly and lightly. Beat until ready to put the 
mixture in the oven. Use a pan that has little legs 
at the top corners, so that when the pan is turned 
upside down on the table, after the baking, a current 
of air will pass under and over it. Bake for forty 
minutes in a moderate oven. Do not grease the 
pan. — New Cook-Book: Miss Maria Parloa. Estes 
& Lauriaty Pubs. (By per) 

Silver Cake. 

The whites of five eggs, one cup of sugar, two 
and one-half cups of flour, one-half cup of butter, 
one-half cup of milk; one teaspoonful of cream-tar¬ 
tar, and one-half teaspooonful of soda. Mix the 
butter and sugar together; add the milk, then the 
flour in which has been mixed the cream-tartar, 
then the whites of the eggs ; then the soda, dissolved 
in a little boiling water. — Presbyterian Cook-Book. 
Daytoily 0. (By per) 

Gold Cake. 

One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, three cups 
of flour, one-half a cup of milk, the yolks of five 
eggs; one teaspoonful of cream-tartar, one-half tea¬ 
spoonful of soda ; flavor to taste. — Presbyterian 
Cook-Book. Dayton , O. (By per) 

Marble Cake. 

Light part: Whites of seven eggs, three cups of 
white sugar, one of butter, one of milk, four of flour; 
one and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 

Dark part: Yolks of seven eggs, two cupfuls of 



HICKORY-NUT CAKE. 


193 


brown sugar, one of butter, one of milk, one of 
Orleans molasses, and four of flour; one tablespoon¬ 
ful of baking-powder, one of cinnamon, one of all¬ 
spice, and one-half tablespoonful of cloves. Put 
some of the white mixture first into the pan, then 
with a large spoon drop in some of the dark, alter¬ 
nating until all is used. This will make one large 
and one small cake. — Presbyterian Cook-Book : 
Miss J. A. E. 

Hickory-Nut Cake. 

“ One cup broken hickory-nut meats, one and one- 
half cup sugar, one-half cup butter, two cups flour, 
three-fourths cup sweet milk; two teaspoonfuls bak¬ 
ing-powder, and the whites of four eggs well beaten; 
flavor with vanilla. Add the meats last.” 

Watermelon Cake. 

White part: Two cups of sugar, one-half cup of 
butter, one of sweet milk, two teaspoonfuls of bak¬ 
ing-powder, two and one-half cups of flour, and one 
lemon. 

Pink part: Made the same as the white, except 
use pink sugar (which can be bought at the confec¬ 
tioners), and one-half pound of raisins. Put the 
raisins in the sugar. Put the pink part all in the 
centre of the pan, and the white on the outside. 
— Presbyterian Cook-Book : Mrs. Graham. 

Pound Cake. 

One pound of sugar, three-quarters of a pound of 
butter, one of flour, nine eggs; a piece of sal-volatile 
the size of a pea, dissolved in a teaspoonful of water. 


194 


Eclairs. 


Beat butter and sugar to a cream ; then add the eggs 
beaten separately, lastly the flour. — Presbyterian 

Cook-Book : Miss P. , 

Eclairs. 

Put in a saucepan half a pound of butter; whisk 
into it a quart of boiled milk, and add gradually one 
pound of sifted flour, and a saltspoonful of salt. Stir 
the milk briskly with a wooden spoon, while the flour 
is being added ; allow the paste to stand on the range 
a few minutes to evaporate some of its moisture ; then 
add one egg at a time, beating thoroughly, until the 
paste shows signs of becoming sticky instead of 
being smooth. 

No definite number of eggs can be prescribed to 
attain this result, as there is so much difference 
in flour; but from five to seven will be sufficient to 
produce the desired consistency. Put the paste in 
a funnel-shaped bag, having a tin tube in the small 
end, and squeeze it out on a buttered pan, making 
the eclair three or four inches long. Then bake 
these forms of light paste for about twenty minutes. 

Prepare a cream as follows : Put two quarts of 
milk on the range, and add to it half a pound of pow¬ 
dered sugar. Put together a quarter of a pound of 
flour, and four eggs, and one vanilla-bean; beat 
thoroughly ; when the milk boils, add it to the flour 
and eggs,'and whisk lively. Set the mixture on the 
range ; let it come to a boil, and pour it into a bowl 
to become cold. When cold, stir into this cream a 
pint of whipped cream. 

Cut the eclairs on the side, and fill them with the 
cream. They may be served plain or with a covering 


LADY-FINGERS. 


195 


of chocolate, icing, or coffee fondant. — Puddings 
and Dainty Desserts : Thomas J. Murrey. White , 
Stokes, & Allen , Pubs. 

Lady-Fingers. 

One cup sugar, three tablespoons milk, one egg, 
one teaspoon cream-tartar, three tablespoons melted 
butter, nutiheg, one even teaspoon soda. 

Mix with flour to roll out thin, sprinkle powdered 
sugar over, and cut in long thin strips. Bake quickly. 
— The Peerless Cook-Book: Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. 
(By perl) 

Sponge Cake. No. i. 

“ One cup of pulverized sugar, one cup of flour, one- 
third cup of sweet milk, three eggs, one teaspoonful 
of cream of tartar, one-half teaspoonful of soda. Beat 
the whites and yolks of the eggs separately and thon 
oughly; add the whites last. Mix, and bake in a 
hot oven.” 

Sponge Cake. No. 2. 

“ One teacup of flour, one of pulverized sugar, tea. 
spoonful of baking-powder, three eggs well beaten ; 
flavor with essence.” 

Dried-Apple Cake. 

Two cups of sweet dried apples, soak over night, 
and chop; add two cups of molasses, and let it 
simmer two hours ; when cold add one cup of sugar, 
two eggs, one-half cup each of sour cream, sour milk, 
and butter; two teaspoonfuls of soda, four cups of 
flour, four teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, one teaspoonful 
of cloves, and one nutmeg.— Exchange. 


196 


JELLY FRUIT CAKE. 


Jelly Fruit Cake. 

“Two cups of sugar, two-thirds cup butter, one 
cup sweet milk, three cups of flour, three eggs, one 
teaspoonful baking-powder. Flavor with lemon. 
Bake one-half of the above mixture in two pans. 
To the remainder add one teaspoonful molasses, one 
cup of raisins, one-half cup currants, and piece of 
citron chopped fine. Bake in two tins. Put the 
four layers together alternately with frosting and 
jelly.” 

Jelly for Cake. 

“One quart of cranberries, and one pound of brown 
sugar. Cook as for table use; then strain through 
sieve, and let jelly.” 

Black Cake. 

One pound butter, one pound sugar, beaten to a 
cream ; stir in twelve eggs, beaten well; sift in one 
pound flour; add three pounds stoned raisins, three 
pounds cleaned currants, five nutmegs, one-half ounce 
cinnamon, one teaspoonful cloves, one pound citron 
cut in small thin slices; these must be well mixed; 
bake in a moderate oven. This improves by keep¬ 
ing. — Peterson’s Magazine. (By per) 

Cocoanut Cakes. 

“ Half pound of pounded sugar to a large cocoanut 
grated, put into a preserving-pan till the sugar melts. 
Form into cakes ; put on white paper. They should 
be well baked in a very cool oven, and when cooked 
ought to be pure white.” 


( 


MACAROONS. igf 

Macaroons. 

“ Blanch and beat half a pound of sweet almonds 
in a mortar with a spoonful of water till quite fine, 
gradually adding the whites of eight eggs, whisked 
or beaten to a froth; then mix in half a pound of 
loaf-sugar finely powdered. Spread sheets of white 
paper on your baking-tin, and over that the proper 
wafer-paper. Lay the paste on it in pieces about 
the size of a walnut, and sift fine sugar over. Bake 
carefully in a moderately hot oven, and when cold 
cut the wafer-paper round. If you choose, you can 
lay two or three almond-strips on the top of each 
cake as they begin to bake.” 

Dents de Loup Biscuit. 

Fold two sheets of paper lengthwise like a fan, 
then double it, butter the paper, and spread it open. 
Break into a pan two eggs, and mix with them four 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, two of flour, and the 
grated rinds of two lemons ; and when these are well 
mixed together, add a quarter pound of melted but¬ 
ter. Pour a spoonful of this preparation on the edge 
of the paper, guiding it along the folds with your fin¬ 
ger ; take another spoonful, and do the same, leaving 
a space between the folds, that they may not touch 
in baking. Sprinkle them with sugared anise-seed, 
or any other spice preferred, and bake them in a 
well-heated oven, and as soon as they are taken out, 
shake them from the paper carefully, that they may 
not break.” 


198 


DOMINOES. 


Dominoes. 

Have any kind of sponge-cake, baked in a rather 
thin sheet. Cut this into small, oblong pieces, the 
shape of a domino. Frost the top and sides of them. 
When the frosting is hard, draw the black lines, and 
make the dots, with a small brush that has been 
dipped in melted chocolate. — New Cook-Book : 
Miss Maria Parloa. Estes & Lauriat , Pubs. (By 
per) — 

Bachelor Buttons. 

These delicious little cakes are prepared by rub¬ 
bing two ounces of butter into five ounces of flour; 
add five ounces of white sugar ; beat an egg with 
half the sugar, then put it to the other ingredients; 
add almond flavoring according to taste. Roll them 
in the hand about the size of a large nut, sprinkle 
them with white sugar, and place them on tins with 
buttered paper. They should be slightly baked. — 
Godcy' s Lady’s Book. (By per) 

Maids of Honor. 

Make some new milk lukewarm, then put in a 
spoonful of rennet, and stir it well through a cheese¬ 
cloth to get rid of the whey; to half a pound of the 
curd put six ounces of butter, four yolks of eggs, and 
sugar and nutmeg to taste. Mix all the ingredients 
well; line patty-pans with a puff paste, fill them with 
the mixture, and bake in a quick oven. The cheese¬ 
cakes may be flavored with lemon if desired. — Peter¬ 
son ' s Magazine. (By per .) 


BO IV- KNOTS. 


I99 


Bow-Knots. 

Cut thin puff-paste into half-inch strips, and shape 
them on the baking-pan into the form of a double 
bow-knot. When baked, put jelly on each loop of 
the bow. — Boston Cook-Book : Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. 
Roberts Brothers , Pubs. {By per) 

Cupid’s Wells. 

Cut the rounds of puff-paste of three or four dif¬ 
ferent sizes ; use the largest one for the bottom, and 
cut the centres from the others, leaving the rims of 
different widths, and put them on the whole round, 
with the narrowest at the top. Bake, and fill with 
jelly.— The Boston Cook-Book: Mrs. D. A. Lin¬ 
coln. Roberts Brothers , Pubs. {By per.) 

Rich Bride-Cake. 

Take four pounds of fine flour, dry it; four pounds 
of sweet, fresh butter, beaten to a cream; and two 
pounds of white sugar; add six eggs to every pound 
of flour; mace and nutmeg, half an ounce each, 
pound them fine. Wash through several waters, and 
pick clean, four pounds of currants; spread them on 
a thickly folded cloth to dry ; stone and chop four 
pounds of raisins, cut two pounds of citron in slices 
of a quarter of an inch thickness, and chop or cut in 
slices one pound of almonds. Beat the yolks of the 
eggs with the sugar to a smooth paste ; beat the but¬ 
ter and flour together, and add them to the yolks and 
sugar; and, lastly, add the spices, and the whites of 
the eggs beaten to a high froth. Beat the cake mix¬ 
ture well together; then stir into it, by degrees, the 


200 


TWELFTH-NIGHT CAKE. 

currants, citron, raisins, and almonds. Butter the 
pans, line them with paper, and put the mixture two 
inches deep in each. Bake according to the depth 
of the cakes, three or four hours, in a moderate 
oven. — Godey's Lady's Book. (By per. Pub.) 

Twelfth-Night Cake. 

Take one cup butter, two of sugar, three and a 
half of flour, one of milk, yolks of five eggs, whites 
of three, three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one of 
orange-extract, one pea, one bean, one clove. 

In making cake, as in every thing else, it is neces¬ 
sary to have every thing ready. Have a round pan 
with a tube in the middle. Take sheets of unglazed 
white, paper, and butter them ; cut a hole for the 
tube, and place in the pan, lining it thoroughly. 
When the cake is done, it can be lifted out by this 
paper. Have butter, milk, and flour measured out, 
and eggs broken and separated. Mix the baking- 
powder into the flour. 

Then, in cold weather always fill the bowl in which 
you are to mix cake, with hot water; let it stand a 
moment, and then pour out. This heats the bowl 
enough to warm the butter, which must not be melted. 
Mix with your hand, or a spoon, as you please; you 
will find it much easier to mix with the hand. 

Rub the butter to a soft smooth cream, and add the 
flour with the flavoring extract gradually. Beat very 
light. Meanwhile have the eggs beaten, the whites 
first, and then the yolks. The butter and sugar must 
be rubbed together till very light. Use a fine granu¬ 
lated sugar for this. Add the milk, a little at a time, 


TWELFTH-NIGHT CAKE. 


201 


and rub and mix to keep it smooth. If the whole 
cupful should be added at once, the mixture would be 
separated into a whey-like substance, and the conse¬ 
quence would be a coarse-grained cake. If inclined 
to separate, add a little flour to stop it. 

In making cake, be sure to make it as quickly as 
possible. 

Add the flour, with the baking-powder in it, and 
beat up quickly; then the well-beaten yolks, then 
the whites beaten stiff. Scrape down with a knife 
from the sides of the bowl, so there will be no hard 
lumps in the cake. Pour the dough into the pan, 
and set into the oven. Have a quick heat at first, 
especially from the bottom. It should rise so as to 
fill the pan. 

When the cake is done, and before it is frosted, 
push into it on one side the pea, and on the other the 
bean and the clove. Mark with a broom-straw, so 
you will remember where you put these. Then ice 
and decorate the loaf. 

When the cake is cut, gentlemen must be served 
from the side containing the clove and bean, and the 
ladies from the side containing the pea, according to 
the ancient custom. The clove represents the knave, 
the bean is the king, and the pea is the queen. 
Those to whom these fall in the cutting of the cake 
must assume the characters represented by them for 
the evening. This is an ancient English custom, 
which has been revived of late years. 

A wreath of angelica leaves and red cherries about 
the edge is a pretty decoration, and in the centre 
should be placed a tiny Christmas-tree. Have little 




202 


PLAIN FROSTING. 


figures of a king, queen, and knave made at a con¬ 
fectioner’s, and place them on top of the cake. — 
Mrs. Daniell: (No. 5) Boston Cooking School. From 
Boston Globe. {By per) 

Plain Frosting. 

Place the whites of one, two, or more eggs in a 
bowl. Throw into them a tablespoonful of pulver¬ 
ized white sugar ; that known as “ confectioner’s ” 
sugar is the best. Beat with a wooden spoon, adding 
sugar by the spoonful, and beating well between the 
additions. It is impossible to state the exact amount 
of sugar, as the size and freshness of eggs vary so 
much ; but use about one cupful of sugar for one 
white of an egg. If, when drawing the end of a 
knife-blade through the frosting on the back of a 
spoon, it leaves a clean-cut'line, consider the frosting 
sufficiently beaten. 

It is best to frost cake while it is warm. Spread 
first over the cake a thin coating of the frosting, with 
a long, thin knife. This fills the pores, and the heat 
of the cake melts the sugar, causing the frosting to 
cling very securely. Next put on with a spoon suffi¬ 
cient to cover the cake, spreading evenly over the 
whole surface. After smoothing, mark where it is 
to be cut, and set in a cool place to harden. Lemon- 
juice is the nicest flavoring, making the frosting light, 
and may be used to thin frosting which spreads too 
stiff. This may be kept a few days, if covered very 
closely from the air. — Mrs. Daniell:' (No. 5) Boston 
Cooking School. From Boston Globe. {By per.) 


( 


TO STONE RAIS/NS EASILY. 263 

To stone Raisins easily. 

Pour boiling water over them, letting them stand 
a moment to soften, then pour it off. The stones 
may then be easily pinched out at the stem end by 
giving an “ extra twist ” to the fruit. — Public Ledger , 
Philadelphia. 

Charlotte Russe. 

Whip one quart rich cream to a stiff froth, and 
drain well on a nice sieve. To one scant pint of 
milk add six eggs beaten very light; make very 
sweet; flavor high with vanilla. Cook over hot 
water till it is a thick custard. Soak one full ounce 
Cox’s gelatine in a very little water, and warm over 
hot water. When the custard is very cold, beat in 
lightly the gelatine and the whipped cream. Line 
the bottom of your mould with buttered paper, the 
sides with sponge-cake or lady-fingers fastened to¬ 
gether with the white of an egg. Fill with the 
cream; put in a cold place, or in summer on ice. 
To turn out, dip the mould for a moment in hot 
water. In draining the whipped cream, all that drips 
through can be re-whipped. — The Every-day Cook- 
Book : Miss Neill. (By per. Belford, Clarke , & Co.). 

Raspberry Blancmange. 

Three pints raspberries, one ounce and a half 
gelatine, one pint cream, one-half pound loaf-sugar. 

Put the fruit into an enamelled preserving-pan, and 
bruise it a little with a wooden spoon, then set the 
pan on the side of the fire where the juice may be 
drawn slowly from the berries. Have the gelatine 


204 


FLOATING ISLAND. 


soaked for an hour in half a cup of cold water. 
Then strain the juice from the raspberries, and put 
it into the pan together with the sugar and the 
gelatine, and let the whole boil gently until the gela¬ 
tine is dissolved. Add, very gradually, the cream, 
stirring it in well. Have ready a dampened mould, 
pour the blancmange into it, and place it on the ice. 
When set, it is ready to turn out and serve. — The 
Caterer. {By per.) 

Floating Island. 

Put a quart of milk on to boil; meanwhile beat to 
a stiff froth the whites of four eggs, and when the 
milk is just boiling put them in it, stir once or twice, 
and then immediately lift out. Use a ladle with 
holes in, that the milk may not be taken out with the 
frothed whites. Have ready the yolks well beaten ; 
add to them a tablespoonful of corn-starch mixed 
smoothly with a little milk, and sweeten all to taste. 
After removing the whites from the milk, put in the 
yolks and corn-starch, and let all just come to 
the boil. Flavor with vanilla or any essence pre¬ 
ferred. Take off, and pour in a deep glass dish, and 
place upon the top the frothed whites. —Miss Lizzie 
Strohm. 

Lemon Snow. 

Soak one ounce of gelatine (cost eight cents) in 
one pint of cold water for half an hour; peel the 
yellow rind from three lemons (cost six cents), and 
squeeze and strain their juice ; put the rind and juice 
of the lemons into a saucepan with eight ounces of 
loaf-sugar (cost eight cents), and stir until the sugar 


ORANGE BASNETS. 


205 


and gelatine are quite dissolved ; pour it into a bowl, 
and let it it cool, and begin to grow firm. Then add 
the whites of three eggs (cost three cents), and beat 
to a stiff froth. Pile by the tablespoonful high in 
the centre of a glass dish. It is pretty and delicious, 
and costs only about twenty-five cents.— Twenty- 
five-Cent Dinners : Miss Juliet Corson. {By per.) 

Orange Baskets. 

Cut as many oranges as will be required, leaving 
half the peel whole for the baskets, and a strip half 
an inch wide for the handle. Remove the pulp and 
juice, and use the juice in making orange-jelly. Place 
the baskets in a pan of broken ice to keep upright. 
Fill with orange-jelly. When ready to serve, put a 
spoonful of zvhipped cream over the jelly in each 
basket. Serve in a bed of orange or laurel leaves. 
— The Boston Cook-Book: Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. 
Roberts Brothers , Pubs. {By per.) 

Ambrosia. 

“ Peel and cut up a dish of oranges, removing all 
the tough skin and seeds. Cover a layer of orange 
with sugar and grated cocoanut, and proceed in this 
way until the dish is filled. Cover the top with the 
sugar and cocoanut.” 

Ice-Cream, Lemon or Vanilla. 

“ One quart of cream, one pint of milk, cup and 
a half of sugar, flavor with large tablespoonful es¬ 
sence of lemon or vanilla. Beat the cream to a 
froth ; stir in the milk and sugar thoroughly; flavor, 
freeze, and pack for two hours.” 


20 6 


STRAWBERRY ICE-CREAM. 


Strawberry Ice-Cream. 

Sprinkle two cups of sugar over two quarts of 
strawberries. Mash them, and let them stand half 
an hour, or until the sugar is dissolved; and mean¬ 
while prepare the ice, and pack the freezer. Turn 
the berries into a large square of cheese-cloth, placed 
over a bowl, and squeeze as long as any juice or 
pulp will come. Then empty the pulp and seeds 
left in the cloth into a pan, and pour on gradually 
about a pint of milk; mix it well with the pulp, until 
the pulp is separated from the seeds. Squeeze again 
until perfectly dry. There should be nothing left in 
the cloth save a ball of seeds. Add to the juice as 
much cream as you may have, from one cup to three 
pints, and sugar to make it very sweet. Freeze as 
usual. After tasting this, you will never want any 
other strawberry ice-cream. — The Peerless Cook- 
Book : Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. Redding & Co. y Pubs. 
(By per.) 

Peach Ice-Cream. 

“ Pare and cut in small pieces one dozen peaches, 
or more if desired, and boil them with half a pound 
of loaf-sugar. When reduced to a marmalade, press 
them through a fine sieve. When cool add one pint 
of cream, and a few drops of cochineal to give a 
deeper peach-color. Freeze. Serve with halves or 
quarters of fresh peaches half frozen around the 
cream.” 

Coffee Cream. 

Take very rich cream, beat it well, and sweeten 
very sweet with powdered loaf-sugar. Prepare in the 


CHOCOLA TE ICE-CREAM. 


207 


best manner a decoction of very strong coffee ; it 
must be very clear; stir sufficient into the cream to 
flavor it highly, and freeze ; it will be a darkish color, 
but is highly esteemed by gentlemen. — Peterson's 
Magazine. (By per.) 

Chocolate Ice-Cream. 

Scrape up a quarter of a pound of Baker’s choco¬ 
late, and dissolve it in a little water; then add to it 
one quart of fresh milk, and put it on the fire in a 
stewpan to boil, stirring it all the time. Make a paste 
of a tablespoonful of corn-starch and the same quan¬ 
tity of cold milk ; stir it into the chocolate, and boil 
until it has well thickened, which should be in about 
fifteen minutes ; add two teacupfuls of white sugar, 
and a teaspoonful of vanilla-extract; when well 
thickened, remove the chocolate from the fire, and 
add it to a quart of rich cream. Freeze as usual. — 
Virginia Cookery-Book : Mrs. Mary Stuart Smith. 
(By per) Harper & Brothers , Pubs. 

Tutti Frutti. 

One gallon of cream, one can of peaches, one can 
of apricots, six lemons, six oranges, twelve bananas. 
Chop the peaches and apricots ; add the juice of the 
lemons and oranges, with the pulp of three of each ; 
whip the cream thoroughly, having first sweetened 
it to your taste, and stir into the fruit. Two pounds 
will probably be about the quantity of sugar required. 
Freeze all together to a paste ; then add the bananas, 
cutting them up into quarter-inch slices with a silver 
knife; stir them in lightly with a silver spoon, and 


208 


SALTED ALMONDS. 


complete the freezing. This quantity makes two gal¬ 
lons when frozen.— Virginia Cookery-Book: Mrs. 
Mary Stuart Smith. Harper & Brothers , Pubs. {By 
per) 

Salted Almonds. 

Shell the almonds, and blanch by throwing them 
into boiling water, and leaving them there, covered, 
for half an hour, or until the skins will slip off easily. 
Skin, and spread them out to dry for several hours. 
Put a good piece of butter into a hot dripping-pan, 
and as it warms stir the almonds over and over in it 
to coat them with the butter. Set in the oven, and 
roast, stirring them often until they begin to color 
faintly. Take them out, shake in a colander to rid 
of grease, spread on a dish, and strew with fine dry 
salt, stirring them about that each nut may have its 
share. Eat cold. They are charmingly appetizing. 
Avoid the dangers of getting the almonds too brown, 
and, on the other hand, of putting them into the oven 
before they are dry enough. —Brooklyn Times. 

After-Dinner Croutons. 

The hard water-crackers being expensive in com¬ 
parison with other crackers, I have adopted the 
crispy croutons as a substitute, and find them very 
acceptable. Cut sandwich-bread into slices one- 
quarter of an inch thick ; cut each slice into four 
small triangles ; dry them in the oven slowly until 
they assume a delicate brownish tint, then serve 
either hot or cold. A nice way to serve them is to 
spread a paste of part butter and part rich creamy 




( 


CANDIED CHERRIES . 2O9 

cheese, to which may be added a very little minced 
parsley. — Puddings and Dainty Desserts : Thomas 
J. Murrey. White, Stokes, & Allen, Pubs. 

Candied Cherries. 

Choose a pound of perfectly sound, ripe cherries 
(cost ten cents), with the stalks and an occasional 
leaf attached ; wipe them with a clean, dry, soft cloth ; 
dip the leaves and stems, but not the fruit, into boil¬ 
ing vinegar, and set them, with the cherries upward, 
in a cardboard perforated with holes to admit the 
stems, until the-vinegar dries. Meantime, boil a 
pound of loaf-sugar (cost about fifteen cents) with 
a teaspoonful of cold water, using a thick, porcelain- 
lined saucepan or copper sugar-boiler; skim until 
perfectly clear, and test in the following way: Dip 
the thumb and forefinger into cold water, and then 
quickly into the boiling sugar, withdrawing it in¬ 
stantly ; press the fingers together, and then draw 
them apart: if the sugar forms a little thread between 
them, it is ready to use ; if it does not, boil a few 
minutes longer, and test again. When it is ready, 
dip the leaves and branches into it, and dry them in 
the cardboard frame as directed above. Keep the 
sugar at the boiling-point, and as soon as it forms 
a clear, brittle thread between the fingers when 
tested as above, dip the entire fruit into it, moving 
the cherries around so that the sugar completely 
covers them ; and dry them, placed as above in the 
cardboard frame, in the mouth of a cool oven. — 
Twenty-five-Cent Dinners : Miss Juliet Corson. 
O. Judd Co., Pubs. (By per) 


210 


ICED CURRANTS. 


Iced Currants. 

Beat the white of one egg (cost one cent) to a 
stiff froth, mix it with three dessertspoonfuls of cold 
water; dip into it carefully some perfect bunches of 
ripe red and white currants, which can be bought 
in season for ten cents a pound; drain each bunch 
a moment, and then dust it well with powdered 
sugar; lay each bunch carefully upon a large sheet 
of white paper, so that there is plenty of room be¬ 
tween the bunches, and set them in a cool, airy place 
for five hours. The sugar will partly crystallize upon 
the fruit, and the effect will be very pretty. The 
cost of a good-sized dish will be about fifteen cents. 
Twenty-five-Cent Dinners : Miss Juliet Corson. 
O. Judd Co., Pubs. (By per) 

Orange Water Ice. 

Take as many oranges as will be necessary, cut 
them in half, and press the juice from them; take 
the pulp carefully from the rind, and put it in a bowl, 
pour a little boiling water on it, stir it well, and strain 
it through a sieve; mix this with the orange-juice, 
and stir in as much sugar as will make a rich sirup. 
If the oranges are fine, rub some of the sugar on the 
peel to extract the essence. Freeze it like ice¬ 
cream. — Godey’s Lady's Book. (By per) 

Grape Sherbet. 

Lay a square of cheese-cloth over a bowl; put in 
a pound of ripe Concord grapes ; mash very thor¬ 
oughly with a wooden masher. Squeeze out all the 



juice; add an equal amount of cold water, the juice 
of one lemon, and sugar to make it very sweet. 
Freeze as usual. — The Peerless Cook-Book : Mrs. 
D. A. Lincoln. Redding & Co ., Pubs. (By per.) 


To make Tea. 




Put the tea in a perfectly clean and dry teapot ten 
‘minutes or a quarter of an hour before it is required ; 
warm both the pot and the tea by placing them in 
the oven or before the fire; then fill the teapot with 
boiling water, allow it to stand for five minutes, and 
it is ready. — Sayer. 

“This method improves the fragrance of the tea 
very considerably, slightly but pleasantly altering 
the flavor; it appears to act by removing any trace 
of moisture or dampness from the tea, and by devel¬ 
oping the aromatic principle.” 

Iced Tea. 

Make the tea in the usual way; do not let it get 
cold on the leaves, but strain it off at the end of ten 
minutes after the boiling water is poured on, and set 
aside to cool. In using it, put two or three lumps of 
sugar in a glass, half fill it with broken ice, pour in 
the tea, and stir rapidly until the sugar melts. It is 
a delicious and refreshing beverage.— Marion Har- 
land. The Post, Washington, D.C. (By per.) 



To boil Coffee. 

Grind a teacupful of coffee in the evening, and, 
having first seen that your coffee-pot has been thor¬ 
oughly cleansed and scalded, put in your ground coffee, 







212 


C HO COLA TE. 


with a little white of egg and a crushed egg-shell if it 
has not been already glazed with egg, and pour over 
it three pints of fresh, cold spring water. Cover up, 
excluding every particle of air; and in the morning, 
about half an hour before breakfast, set the pot on 
the back part of the stove, and let it come to a boil 
only just when you are ready to send it to the table. 

By this plan of infusion all of the virtue in the 
coffee seems to be brought out. It is an admirable 
method.— Virginia Cookery-Book: Mrs. Mary 
Stuart Smith. Harper & Brothers , Pubs. (By per.) 

Chocolate. 

Scrape fine an ounce (one of the small squares) of 
Baker’s or any other plain chocolate. Add two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and put in a small saucepan 
with a tablespoonful of hot water. Stir over a hot 
fire for a minute or two, until it is perfectly smooth 
and glossy, and then stir it all into a quart of boil¬ 
ing milk, or half milk and half water. Mix thor¬ 
oughly, and serve at once. If the chocolate is wanted 
richer, take twice as much chocolate, sugar, and 
water. Made in this way, chocolate is perfectly 
smooth, and free from oily particles. If it is allowed 
to boil after the chocolate is added to the milk, it 
becomes oily, and loses its fine flavor. — New Cook- 
Book : Miss Maria Parloa. Estes & Lauriat, Pubs. 
(By per.) 






. 


' 


















CHAPTER XVII. 

* _ t- 


CONFECTIONERY. 







CONFECTIONERY. 

JESSIE’S BARGAINS. 

When Uncle Feodorardo left this world of woes, — which doubt¬ 
less he looks back upon with a sight that pierces the secret of the 
storms and showers and sunshine of it, — he left a great gap in it for 
all the children. What a blessing he was to child-kind, to be sure! 
And what a peculiar blessing to one mite out of that kind, Jessie by 
name ! 

How this little white mite would have kept alive at all, at one time, 
instead of dissolving back into her elements, if Uncle Feodorardo had 
not taken her in hand, is one of those dark questions to be worked out 
with chemical equations. He reminded you, in the process, of those 
Japanese jugglers who, with their fans, keep butterflies fluttering on 
the air around them, which, if the fan ceased and they fell to the 
ground, would be merely the original atoms of torn white paper again. 
For the changeling was so slight a thing that you could see the sun 
shine through her hand, and they had threatened to hang her up in 
the window for a transparency; and she was finally allowed to run 
wild, in hopes that she might lose her blanched, house-plant look, and 
get a little of the vigor of the out-door weeds. 

It was with this end in view that Uncle Feodorardo, — no uncle of 
hers, by the by, any more than of all the little people in town, but an 
exile who had been adopted into every body’s heart in the new home, 
— would entice the flaxen-haired piece of mischief into his garden 
ncross the way, and, giving her a little spade, would set her to dig¬ 
ging anywhere in the warm brown earth. “ She is our mother,” said 
Uncle Feodorardo. “ We are made of her dust. When we are peak¬ 
ing, her touch is our best cure.” He offered Jessie wages for the work 
she was to do with her little spade,— wages quite as large as Uncle 
Feodorardo could afford, for he earned his own livelihood from his 
garden ; and, at any rate, quite the market-value of the work performed, 
— wages of a penny an hour, and which she was to claim when she 
could conscientiously say she had delved sixty minutes. Sometimes it 
took Jessie a whole week before she could honestly earn her penny, 
for she had a thousand things in that garden to divert her, since Nature 
and Feodorardo together conspired to keep her active when she could 
be drinking in health from all the winds that blew about her. . . . 

But when at last the penny was hers, no more garden-work, or play 
either, for that day. It was business, serious business. She hied 
away with it to the corner grocery; and it was a weary forenoon to 
the wretched clerk behind the counter there, who must have grown 
to dread the sight of that little figure, if he did not regard its approach 
as an expiation of his own peccadilloes among the cakes and sweet¬ 
s' 



216 


JESSIE'S BA EGA INS. 


meats. Jessie was not like those good children who put their pennies 
in the missionary-box. She felt, perhaps, that there was a little hea¬ 
then here at home that wanted the penny; and though she was any 
thing but starved, yet, except on the rare occasions when she bought a 
tiny china baby as naked as a pappoose, she always spent that penny for 
her palate. But stingy with her bargain, — bargain it was always, — a 
jury of her peers could not have declared her; for though she quar¬ 
relled and scuffled with her sisters, in the morning, for the wash-basin 
or the towels, she always gave them a bit of her macaroon, or her tart, 
or her plum, in the afternoon, — crying a little bit if they took too big 
a bite. 

She would begin her bargaining by pricing every thing in all the 
jars deliberately, until at last the half-distracted clerk would cry, 
“ Now you know the price of every thing in this shop, see here ! And 
you can buy, or you can let it alone. The gibraltars are a cent apiece, 
and so are the barley-sugar sticks, and the apples, and the ginger-snaps. 
And we don’t sell white grapes by the cent’s worth, nor guava-jelly. 
And I sha’n’t let you have a quince anyway, because it would give 
you a colic, and your ma wouldn’t like it; and, besides, quinces are 
two cents this year.” 

“ How much is jujube-paste ?” Jessie would ask then, oblivious of 
the slight to her dignity involved in the reference to colic. 

“ Well, you can have a stick of that for a cent.” 

“I don’t know as I like jujube-paste,” hesitatingly, and climbing 
higher with her dangerous elbows on the show-case. 

“Then what did you ask about it for?” the clerk would say tartly. 
“ We have it in all flavors,” he would add, from mere habit. “ Then 
there’s Jenny Lind chewing-gum,” in a tone half-questioning, half-ad¬ 
vising. 

“ I like real gum better than that,” is the reply. 

“ We’re all out of spruce,” teetering back and forth on his heels 
and toes. 

“ Haven’t you any gum -drops? ” Jessie would ask. 

“ Oh, yes, plenty of those,” snatching at relief. 

“ How many ” — 

“ Six for a cent,” plainly and emphatically. 

“ I don’t think that’s quite enough,” gently, but full as decidedly. 

“ Very well. That’s the best we can do for you,” taking out his 
pocket-comb now, and soothing his mind by its use. 

“ Do you ever sell a piece of an apple ?” 

“ Good gracious ! I’ll give you a bite,” cries the clerk desper¬ 
ately. 

“ Oh, no,” she answers sweetly; “ I don’t want you to give me any 
thing. I’m not begging, I’m buying,” grand as a little archduchess. 

“ Well, then, what will you have ?” he demands, leaning over the 
counter in a state of exhaustion. 

“ I suppose, though, you don’t throw any thing in when people 
buy?” she asks, slightly modifying her grandeur, as even archduch¬ 
esses may. 

“ Not your sort,” says this Bayard of the boxes. 

“ I didn’t ask you to throw any thing in,” indignantly. “ I said I 
supposed you didn’t.” 


BARLEY SUGAR. 


217 


“Come, tkne’s up!” cries her victim as a last resort. “What’ll 
you take? I’m going to close, and go home to dinner.” 

“ I guess, then, I’ll take a cocoanut-cake. You said they were ” — 
“A cent apiece. Yes,” with satisfaction at the prospect. And 
then, as Jessie lays her little hand on the largest one, he is obliged to 
remark, “ But that size is three cents.” 

Sometimes Jessie withdrew with her cent at this point, outraged, 
and insulted, and made no purchase all that day. But she carried the 
cent to bed with her ; her first thought on waking in the morning was 
concerning it; her first act was to feel for it; it lay beside her break¬ 
fast-plate ; and no sooner was she her own mistress again than she 
returned, bright and early, to her charge, and renewed her haggling.— 

J ESSIE : Mrs . Harriet Prescott Spofford. (By per.) 


Barley Sugar. 

One pint of very strong barley-water, strained; 
two pounds of rock-candy; lemon-juice to taste. 
Boil without stirring; then pour into buttered pans, 
and score into long flat sticks. It is excellent. — 
The Unrivalled Cook-Book. {By per. Harper & 
Brothers.) 

Sugar a la Creme. 

Take a pound of maple-sugar, put it in a pan, and 
put the pan into another of boiling water, until it 
melts into a sirup. Then put in a half-teacupful of 
cream, and boil for ten minutes. Pour it out into a 
well-buttered dish ; cut it into squares while cooling. 
Public Ledger , Philadelphia. {By per) 

Cocoanut Candy. 

Equal quantities of white sugar and grated cocoa- 
nut ; add enough milk of the cocoanut to moisten 
the sugar, and then put it on the fire to boil, stirring 
almost constantly. When the candy begins to return 
to sugar, stir in the cocoanut as quickly as possible, 
and in a minute or two spread it on dishes to cool, 



2l8 ' 


RED OR PINK COLORING. 


marking it off in squares to cut after it hardens suffi¬ 
ciently. If you would like a portion pink, stir a little 
pokeberry-jelly into some of the candy while hot, 
until it has acquired the tint you like. —Virginia 
Cookery-Book : Mrs. Mary Stuart Smith. Harper 
& Brothers , Pubs. (By per.) 

Red or Pink Coloring. 

Gather pokeberries just before frost falls ; express 
the juice, and let it drip clear through a flannel or 
thin muslin bag; to one pint of juice allow three- 
quarters of a pound of white sugar; boil rapidly 
together for twenty minutes, and put away in a small 
glass jar for use. This quantity will last an ordinary 
family for a whole year, and be found very useful 
in ornamental cookery. —Virginia Cookery-Book: 
Mrs. Mary Stuart Smith. Harper & Brothers , Pubs. 
(By per) 

Ginger or Cinnamon Tablet. 

“ Melt one pound of loaf-sugar or sugar-candy with 
a little water over the fire, and put in one ounce 
of pounded ginger or cinnamon, and keep stirring it 
till it begins to rise into a froth, then pour into a dish 
which has been first rubbed with a little butter; be¬ 
fore it hardens, cut it into the size and shape you 
approve of for table.” 

Chocolate Caramels. 

Take half a pint of rich milk, and put it to boil in 
a porcelain kettle •; scrape down a square and a half 
of chocolate, put it into a very clean tin cup, and set 
it on the top of a stove till it becomes soft. Let the 
milk boil up twice, then add gradually the chocolate, 



/ 


VANILLA TOFFEE . 


219 


and stir both over the fire till thoroughly mixed and 
free from lumps. Stir in half a pint of the best 
white sugar powdered, and four large tablespoonfuls 
of molasses. Let the whole boil fast and constantly 
(so as to bubble), for at least one hour or more, till 
it is nearly as stiff as mush. When all is done, add 
a small teaspoonful of essence of vanilla, and transfer 
the mixture to shallow tin pans slightly greased with 
very nice sweet oil. Set it on ice, or in a very cool 
place, and, while yet soft, mark it deeply in squares 
with a very sharp knife. When quite hard, cut the 
squares apart. — Godey’s Lady's Book. (Byper. Piib.) 

Vanilla Toffee. 

Put one-quarter of a pound of butter at the bottom 
of the saucepan, then put in one pound of sugar and 
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Leave it to soak one 
night. If it looks too dry in the morning, add a 
little more vinegar. Then put it on the fire, and 
boil, not stirring it. When you think it likely to be 
done, stick a knife into the middle of it, and drop it 
into a cup of cold water, and if it bites crisp it is 
done. Just before it is done, drop in a teaspoonful 
of essence of vanilla. Then pour the toffee thinly 
all over a buttered tin, and it will soon be cold. — 
Petersoids Magazine. (By peri) 

Stuffed Dates. 

Remove the stones from a pound of fine dates 
(cost ten cents), by cutting them open at one side. 
Remove the shells and skins from half a pound of 
almonds (cost ten cents); the skins can easily be 
rubbed off by first pouring boiling water on the 


220 


CREAMED WALNUTS . 


almond kernels; replace the date-stones with the 
almonds, and arrange the dates neatly on a shallow 
dish; dust a little powdered sugar over them, and 
keep them in a cool, dry place till ready to use. The 
dish will cost twenty-three cents.— Twenty-five- 
Cent Dinners : Miss Juliet Corson. {By per) 

Creamed Walnuts. 

The white of one egg, and an equal amount of cold 
water, one teaspoonful of lemon or vanilla. Beat 
until thoroughly mixed; then beat in confectioner’s 
sugar, sifted, until the dough is stiff enough to 
mould. Break off pieces the size of a nutmeg, roll 
them till smooth and round. Press the halved wal¬ 
nut-meats on each side, letting the cream show 
slightly between the meats. One egg will req'uire 
about a pound and a quarter of sugar. — The Peer¬ 
less Cook-Book : Mrs. D. A. Lincoln . {Byper) 

Walnut Taffy. 

Boil half a pint of molasses until it crisps when 
dropped into water; stir into it one pint of walnut- 
kernels, and let it cook about ten minutes on a slow 
fire, stirring constantly. Then put in a quarter of a 
teaspoonful of soda, stirring it thoroughly in. Pour 
out into a well-greased pan. — Miss Lulie Strohm. 

Peanut Candy. 

“Boil together one pint of molasses, one gill of 
brown sugar, and two ounces of butter. When this 
is growing thick, add one pint of parched and shelled 
peanuts ; then boil the whole fifteen minutes, and 
pour it into a shallow dish to cool and harden.” 






1 T 


i 

CHAPTER XVIII. 


COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 




✓ 




i 






COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 

n 

Wagtail to Bobtail. — “ By the by, Bobtail, I ought to apologize 
for not having congratulated you on the fortune that you have just 
stepped into.” 

Bobtail. — “ That my precious Betsy has just stepped into, you mean.” 

Wagtail. — “ True ; rather odd, eh ? ” 

Bobtail. — “ Odd ! ” 

Wagtail. — “ Queer — umph! ” 

Bobtail. — “ Queer — what ? ” 

Wagtail. — “ Why, that old Brown, who was no sort of relation to 
Mrs. Bobtail, should have left the money to her , and not to you. 
Eh, eh?” 

Bobtail. —“Not at all odd, Mr. Wagtail; neither ( is it queer, Mr. 
Wagtail! I never paid Brown any attention : my precious Betsy did. 
/ never took him up a basin of broth, or gruel, or arrowroot, in all 
my life. Now, my precious Betsy was constantly brothing him, and 
gruelling him, and arrow-rooting him, — consequently Brown, very 
properly, appreciated her kindness and attentions.” — My Precious 
Betsy : J. M. Morton. 


Mutton Broth. 

Boil a piece of mutton until it will fall from the 
bone ; then strain the broth, and let it get cold, so 
that the fat will rise, which must be taken off; then 
warm the liquor, and put in a little salt. Swelled 
rice or barley may be added to it. Veal or chicken 
broth is made in the same way. — Presbyterian 
Cook-Book. Dayton , O. {By per) 

Beef Tea. 

Cut half a pound of lean fresh beef into slices, 
lay it in a dish, and pour over it a pint of boiling 
water; cover the dish, and let it stand half an hour 


223 



224 


A NOURISHING OMELET. 


by the fire, then just boil it up, pour it off clear, and 
salt it a very little. — Godey ’s Lady's Book. (By per. 
Pub.) 

A Nourishing Omelet. 

Dissolve a saltspoon of beef-extract in half a cup of 
hot water, and stir into it half a cup of the crusts 
of whole-wheat bread rolled fine. Let them soak 
over the teakettle while you beat the yolks and 
whites of two eggs. Stir the soaked crumbs into 
the yolks, add a dash of salt and pepper, then stir the 
whites in lightly. Cook in a hot, buttered omelet- 
pan. Fold, and invert on a hot dish. Garnish with 
parsley. — The Peerless Cook-Book: Mrs. D. A. 
Lincoln. (By peri) 

Gruel. 

“One large tablespoonful of fine Indian or oat 
meal, mixed smooth with cold water, and a salt- 
spoon of salt; pour upon this a pint of boiling water, 
turn into a saucepan, and boil gently for nearly an 
hour. Stir it frequently, and thin with boiling water 
if becoming too thick. When done, and cool enough* 
serve with sugar and a little new milk or cream. 
Raisins boiled in gruel improve it.” 

Arrowroot. 

Mix a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot with a little 
cold water; have ready boiling water in a kettle, and 
pour it upon the arrowroot until it becomes quite 
clear, keeping it stirred all the time; add a little 
sugar. When milk may be taken, it is very good 
made in the same way with milk instead of water, 


GROUND-RICE MILK. 


225 


a dessert-spoonful of arrowroot, and half a pint of 
milk ; add a small bit of lemon-peel. —' Arthur s Home 
Magazine. (By per .) 

Ground-Rice Milk. 

Boil one spoonful of ground rice, rubbed down 
smooth, with one pint and a half of milk, a bit of 
cinnamon, lemon-peel, and nutmeg. Sweeten when 
nearly done. — Godey’s Lady's Book. (By per .) 

Flour Caudle. 

Take a large tablespoonful of flour, mix very 
smoothly with a little milk, and a pinch of salt. 
Stir it into a quart of boiling milk, stirring it very 
carefully and thoroughly to prevent burning or be¬ 
coming “lumpy.” Season it with grated nutmeg or 
a little ground allspice. 

(This caudle, or “pap” as country people often 
call it, is excellent in cases of diarrhoea.) 

Panada. 

“Six Boston crackers split, two tablespoonfuls of 
white sugar, a good pinch of salt, and a little nut¬ 
meg ; enough boiling water to cover them well. Pile 
the crackers in a bowl in layers, scatter the salt and 
sugar and grated nutmeg among them. Cover with 
boiling water, and set on the hearth, with a close 
top over the bowl, for at least one hour. The 
crackers should be almost clear, and soft as jelly, but 
not broken. Eat from the bowl, with more sugar 
sprinkled in if you wish it. If properly made, this 
panada is very nice.” 


226 


MILK TOAST (FOR INVALIDS), 


Milk Toast (for invalids). 

Take a couple of slices of bread, and toast well, 
— that is, crisp. Take new milk or cream, also a 
bit of butter (varying according to toast required), 
and melt in a saucepan together. Then dip in the 
slices of toast, let them soak for a moment or two, 
lift on to a deep plate, and pour the remains of milk 
and butter on top. Serve very hot; add salt as 
required. — New - York Herald. 

Irish-Moss Blancmange. 

Pick over carefully one teacupful of Irish moss; 
wash it first in saleratus-water, then rinse it several 
times in fr^sh ; put it in a tin bucket, with one quart 
of milk; cover closely, and set in a pot of boiling 
water. Let it stand until the milk begins to thicken, 
then strain through a fine sieve, and sweeten with 
powdered sugar ; flavor with lemon or vanilla. Wet 
the mould in cold water, pour in the blancmange, 
and set in a cool place. When quite firm, loosen the 
edges from the mould, and turn out on a dish. To 
be eaten with sugar and cream. — Presbyterian 
Cook-Book. Dayton , O. 

Calves’-Foot Jelly. 

“ Boil four nicely cleaned calves’-feet in three 
quarts of water, until reduced to one, very slowly; 
strain, and set away ,until cold; then take off the fat 
from the top, and remove the jelly into a stew-pan, 
avoiding the settlings, and adding half a pound of 
white powdered sugar, the juice of two lemons, and 


EGG MULLED IN TEA OR COFFEE . 22? 

the whites of two eggs, the latter to make it trans¬ 
parent. Boil all together a few moments, and set 
away in bowls or glasses; it is excellent in a sick¬ 
room.” 

Egg mulled in Tea or Coffee. 

i 

“ Beat the yolk of an egg very well, in a tea or 
coffee cup; stir into it a little milk or cream ; then 
pour on it, stirring it all the time, hot coffee or tea 
sufficient to fill the cup. If the hot liquid is poured 
in too hastily, or without stirring it at the time, the 
egg will curdle, instead of uniting with the tea. In¬ 
valids are recommended to try this mixture for break¬ 
fast, as being light and nourishing, without being 
heating.” 

Raspberry Vinegar. 

To four quarts red raspberries, put enough vinegar 
to cover, and let them stand twenty-four hours; scald 
and strain it; add a pound of sugar to one pint of 
juice; boil it twenty minutes, and bottle; it is then 
ready for use, and will keep years. To one glass of 
water add a great spoonful. It is much relished by 
the sick. Very nice. — Every-day Cook-Book : 
Miss Neill. Belford , Clarke , & Co. (By per.) 

Apple Water. 

“One large juicy pippin, the most finely flavored 
you can get; three cups of cold water, one quart if 
the apple is very large. Pare and quarter the apple, 
but do not core it. Put it on the fire in a tin or 
porcelain saucepan with the water, and boil, closely 
covered, until the apple stews to pieces. Strain the 


228 


BAXLEY JTATEX. 


liquor at orice , pressing the apple hard in the cloth. 
Strain this again through a finer bag, and set away 
to cool. Sweeten with white sugar, and ice for 
drinking.” 

Barley Water. 

Put a large tablespoonful of well-washed pearl- 
barley into a pitcher; pour over it boiling water; 
cover it, and let it remain till cold; then drain off 
;;he water, sweeten to taste, and, if liked, add the 
juice of a lemon, and grated nutmeg.— Every-day 
Cook-Book : Miss Neill. Belford , Clarke , & Co., Pubs . 


CHAPTER XIX. 


* - - 1 

HOME REMEDIES 






I 




\ 






HOME REMEDIES. 


Herbs, too, she knew, and well of each could speak, 

That in her garden sipped the silvery dew; 

Where no vain flower disclosed a gaudy streak ; 

But herbs for use, and physic not a few, 

Of gray renown, within those borders grew : 

The tufted Basil, pun-provoking Thyme, 

Fresh Baum, and Marygold of cheerful hue; 

The lowly Gill, that never dares to climb; 

And more I fain would sing, disdaining here to rhyme. 

Yet Euphrasy may not be left unsung, 

That gives dim eyes to wander leagues around; 

And pungent Radish, biting infant’s tongue; 

And Plantain ribbed, that heals the reaper’s wound; 

And Marjoram sweet, in shepherd’s posy found; 

And Lavender, whose spikes of azure bloom 
Shall be, erewhile, in arid bundles bound, 

To lurk amidst the labors of her loom, 

And crown her kerchiefs clean with mickle rare perfume. 

William Shenstone. 


Herb Teas. 

Pour one cup of boiling water over one tablespoonful 
of the herbs. Cover the bowl, set it over the tea¬ 
kettle, and steep ten minutes. Sweeten if desired. 
Mullein tea is good for inflammation of the lungs ; 
camomile tea , for sleeplessness ; calamus and catnip 
tea , for colds and infant’s colic; cinnamon tea , for 
hemorrhages ; watermelon-seed and pumpkin-seed tea , 
for strangury and summer-complaint. A few sprigs 
of sage, burnet, balm, and sorrel, half a lemon sliced, 
and three pints of boiling water, sweetened to taste, 
and covered closely until cold, make an agreeable 


231 



232 PENNYROYAL TEA . 

drink for a fever patient. —The Boston Cook-Book : 
Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. Roberts Brothers , Pubs. (By 
per) 

Pennyroyal Tea. 

“The virtues of this old-fashioned remedy are 
vouched for in cholera years, by a correspondent, * 
who says that the pennyroyal herb, made into a tea 
and drank hot, is the most comforting and active 
preventive that can be imagined when depressing 
symptoms set in.” 

Elder Tea. 

“Make a strong tea of elder-flowers , either fresh or 
dried. Sweeten with honey. This tea is to be drunk 
as hot as possible, after the person is warm in bed; 
it produces a strong perspiration, and a slight cold or 
cough yields to it immediately; but the more stub¬ 
born requires two or three repetitions. Used in 
Russia.” This is an excellent remedy for colds at¬ 
tended with feverish symptoms and sore throat. 

Slippery-Elm Tea. 

Pour one cup of boiling water upon one teaspoonful 
of slippery-ehn powder or a piece of the bark. When 
cool, strain, and flavor with lemon-juice and sugar. 
This is soothing in any inflammation of the mucous 
membrane. — Boston Cook-Book : Mrs. D. A. Lincoln. 
Roberts Brothers , Pubs. 

Flaxseed Lemonade. 

Pour one quart of boilmg water over four tablespoon¬ 
fuls of whole flaxseed , and steep three hours. Strain 


CALAMUS CANDY. 233 

and sweeten to taste, and add the juice of two lemons. 
Add a little more water if the liquid seems too thick. 
This is soothing in colds. — Boston Cook-Book : Mrs. 
D. A. Lincoln. Roberts Brothers , Pubs. (By peri) 

Calamus Candy. 

“ Two cupfuls of small pieces of sliced root, an 
eighth of an inch in thickness ; cover with cold water, 
and boil gradually ; then pour off the water, and add 
a cup and a half of pulverized white sugar, with 
water ; simmer long and slowly, stirring frequently ; 
pour out in buttered pans. In Turkey it is con¬ 
sidered preventive of contagion/’ 

And he felt new life in his sinews shoot, 

As he drank the juice of the calamus-root; 

And now he treads the fatal shore, 

As fresh and vigorous as before. 

The Culprit Fay : Joseph Rodman Drake. 

.Delightful Cough Candy. 

Break up a cupful of slippery-elm bark, and let it 
soak for an hour in water poured over it in the meas¬ 
uring-cup. Half fill a cup with flaxseed, and fill up 
to the brim with water, leaving it to soak the same 
time as the slippery-elm. When you are ready to 
make the candy, put one pound and a half of brown 
sugar in a stew-pan over the fire; pour the water 
from the slippery-elm and flaxseed over it, straining 
the last, and stir constantly until it boils and begins 

to turn back to sugar; then turn it out, and it will 

# 

break up into crumbly, small pieces. For preachers 
or teachers who use their voices too much, it will 
be found an admirable and agreeable medicine, the 


234 


EXCELLENT COUGH MIXTURE. 


taste being peculiarly pleasant. It is highly recom¬ 
mended to any one subject to throat affections. The 
best flavor for it is a little lemon-juice.— Virginia 
Cookery-Book : Mrs. Mary Stuart Smith. Harper 
& Brothers , Pubs. (By per.) 

Excellent Cough Mixture. 

Take a handful of hoarhound, boil in a quart of 
water; add one pint of Orleans molasses, and one 
pound of brown sugar. Boil to a thin sirup. Put 
all in a bottle, and add one tablespoonful of tar. 
Shake while warm, until the tar is cut into small 
beads. Dose : Take one tablespoonful whenever the 
cough is troublesome. Presbyterian Cook-Book , Day - 
ton y O. ( By per) 

Gargle for Sore Throat. 

Make a gargle of one teaspoonful of molasses, one 
of salt, and one half-teaspoonful of cayenne-pepper. 
Mix these with one teacupful of hot water. When 
cool, add one quarter of a cup of cider-vinegar. 
Presbyterian Cook-Book. (By per) 

Salve. 

Four ounces of mutton-tallow, two of beeswax, 
one of rosin, and one-half ounce of gum camphor. 
Simmer well together ; take off the fire, and then 
add one gill of alcohol. Good for all kinds of sores 
and wounds. — Presbyterian Cook-Book : Mrs. 
I V. C. 

Brown Salve. 

Two pounds of mutton-tallow, put in as many 
jimson (Jamestown weed) and plantain leaves as 


BALSAM LINIMENT. 


235 

possible; fry until they crimp up, and then strain. 
To this add about two tablespoonfuls of tar; let it 
boil up, then pour it into the vessel in which it is to 
be kept, and let cool. — Presbyterian Cook-Book. 
{By per ;) 

Balsam Liniment. 

“The fruit of the balsam apple {momordica bal- 
samina) picked when ripe, and preserved in alcohol, 
is considered very efficacious applied to a fresh 
wound. Bind a piece upon the wound or cut. In 
Syria, the fruit is used for the same purpose that it 
is here; but they cut it open when unripe, and in¬ 
fuse it in sweet oil, exposed to the sun for some days, 
until the oil has become red. This ,is dropped upon 
cotton, and applied.” 

For a Gathering. 

“ Soak the leaves of common dock -plant in vinegar; 
apply warm, as often as possible.” 

Borage. 

“ This plant contains a certain amount of saltpetre, 
as may be proved by burning a dried leaf. For this 
reason, it is used with great benefit for the relief of 
sore throats. The root is rich in gum, and if boiled 
yields a mucilaginous emulsion, excellent for irrita¬ 
tion of the throat and chest. Very violent attacks 
of toothache, where the nerve has taken cold, are 
often cured by holding a portion of the leaves, pre¬ 
viously boiled in milk, and applied warm, in the 
mouth, against the affected tooth.” 


236 


THIEVES' VINEGAR. 


Thieves’ Vinegar. 

“Soak two ounces each of rue, sage, rosemary, 
lavender, and wormwood, for three days in one pint 
of white-wine vinegar; stand at a short distance 
from the fire. In each pint of vinegar, dissolve half 
an ounce of camphor, and strain well. In cases of 
infection, bathe the nostrils and around the mouth 
with this preparation. This powerful disinfectant 
was used during the plague in London, by the thieves 
who robbed the dead and dying: hence its name.” 

Scent Sachets. No. 1. 

“ Take of lavender-flowers, free from stalk, half a 
pound; dried thyme and mint, each half an ounce ; 
ground cloves and caraways, of each a quarter of an 
ounce; common salt dried, one ounce. Mix the 
whole well together, and put into silk or cambric 
bags. It will perfume the drawers and linen very 
nicely.” 

Scent Sachets. No. 2. 

“ Coriander-seed one ounce, orris-root one ounce, 
rose-leaves one ounce, mace one drachm, allspice one 
drachm, lavender-flowers one ounce, sweet-flag (cala¬ 
mus aromaticus ) one ounce.” 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


Almonds, salted.. 

Ambrosia. 

Angel Cake. 

Apple Butter. 

“ Dumplings. 

“ Pudding, boiled... 
** Sauce, for Goose. . 
“ “ Sunday.... 

“ Water. 

Arrowroot. 

Asparagus, to cook. 

Bachelor Buttons. ... 

Bacon and Eggs. 

Baked Beans. 

“ Custards. 

Balsam Liniment. 

Barley Sugar. 

“ Water. 

Bass, boiled. 

Beans, baked . 

“ string. 

Beef a la Mode . 

“ roast. 

“ Loaf. 

“ Stew or Hash. 

“ Tea. 


PAGE 

Beef’s Heart, to bake a .. 52 


Beefsteak, French. 29 

“ fried. 30 

“ Pie. 31 

Beets. 106 

Biscuit, brown. 149 

“ drop. 151 

“ egg. 150 

“ Naples. 150 

“ soda. 151 


“ fiyaways, or souffle 151 
Blanc-Mange, Irish moss. 226 
“ “ raspberry.. 203 

Blackberry Flummery... 171 


Borage. 235 

Bouillabaisse, a Marseilles 

receipt for. 6 

Bouillon. 4 

Bow-Knots. 199 

Bread. 142 

“ aerated home-made 145 

“ brown. 155 

“ corn. 158 

“ French twist. 144 

“ salt-rising. 146 

“ Vienna. 144 

Bride-Cake, rich. 199 

(237) 


PAGE 

208 

205 

191 

12 7 

165 

164 

66 

166 

227 

224 

96 

198 

45 

50 

169 

235 

217 

228 

16 

5 ° 

28 

31 

33 

3i 

223 

















































238 


ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


PAGE 

Brown Betty.. 166 

“ Bread. 155 

Broth, mutton. 223 

“ Bubble and Squeak .. 53 

Buns. 147 

“ hot cross. 148 

“ saffron. 148 

Cabbage, boiled. 103 

“ red, stewed. .. 103 


to stew a la 
cauliflower .. 103 


Cake angel. 191 

“ black. 196 

“ bride .. 199 

“ cocoanut. 196 

“ dried-apple. 195 

“ gold... 192 

“ hickory-nut... 193 

“ jelly, fruit. 196 

“ marble... 192 

“ pound. 193 

“ silver. 192 

“ sponge, No. 1. 195 

“ sponge, No. 2. 195 

“ twelfth-night. 200 

“ watermelon. 193 

Cakes, rock. 187 

“ oaten. 160 

Calamus Candy. 233 

Calve’s-Foot jelly.226 


PAGE 


Candied cherries. 209 

Candy, calamus. 233 

“ cocoanut. 217 

“ cough. 233 

“ peanut,. 220 

Caramels, chocolate. 218 

Catsup, cucumber. 117 

" grape. 118 

“ tomato, No. 1. .. 117 

“ tomato, No. 2.... 117 

Caudle, flour. 225 

Celery, to stew. 105 

Charlotte Russe . 203 

Cheese, cottage. 90 

“ Fritters. 88 

Cherries, candied.. 209 

Chestnut Puree. 64 

Chicken, a soujffle of. 67 

“ curry of. 68 

“ Fricassee of.... 67 

“ jellied. 69 

“ Pie. 69 

“ “ with sweet 

potatoes. 70 

Chocolate. 212 

“ Caramels. 218 

“ Pudding. 170 

Chops, lamb. 39 

Chowder, clam. 24 

“ lobster. 25 

Clam Chowder. 24 























































ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


239 


PAGE 


Clam Scallops. 24 

Clams, hard - shelled, to 

boil. 23 

Cocoanut Candy. 217 

Codfish Balls. 49 

Coffee Cream. 206 

“ to boil. 211 

Cold Slaw, cream dress¬ 
ing for. 103 

Coloring, red or pink.... 218 
Compote of Gooseberries 171 

Cookies, sour-cream. 186 

Corn, sweet. 98 

“ Bread. 158 

“ Oysters. 98 

Cough mixture, excellent 234 

Cranberries. 64 

Cream, coffee. 206 

“ Dressing. 94 

Creamed Walnuts. 220 

Croutons. 11 


“ after dinner ... 208 
Croquettes de volatile 
(Poultry 
Croquettes). 71 


“ Salmon. 17 

Crullers. 186 

Cucumbers.... . 96 

Cupid’s Wells. 199 

Curds and Cream. 89 

Currants, iced. 210 


PAGE 


Currants, spiced. 118 

Curry, chicken. 68 

“ rabbit. 77 

Custards, baked . 169 

Dates, stuffed. 219 

Dent de Loup Biscuit.... 197 
Deer’s Head, to cook in 

camp. 75 

Dominoes. 198 

Doughnuts, editor’s. 186 

Dried Beef, frizzled. 33 

Drop-cakes, hominy. 158 

Dumplings, apple. 165 

Duckling Pot Roast. 66 

Eclairs. 194 

Eels, fried. 21 

“ stewed. 21 

Egg mulled in Tea or Cof¬ 
fee. 227 

Eggs and bacon. 45 

“ fricasseed . 87 

“ frothed. 88 

“ pickled. 115 

“ scrambled. 87 

“ soft boiled. 87 

Egg-Plant. .. 107 

English Christmas Plum 

Pudding. 173 

“ Tapioca Pudding 170 




















































240 


ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


PAGE 


Fish Jelly. 20 

“ scalloped . 20 

Flapjacks, corn-meal... 158 

Flaxseed Lemonade. 232 

Floating Island. 204 

Flounders, fried. 19 

Flour Caudle. .. 225 

Forcemeat, to make a 

good. 21 

French Toast. 152 


Fricaudeau a VOseille . ... 35 

Fricassee of Squirrels.... 77 

Fritters, cheese. 88 


“ omelet. 87 

“ parsnep. 106 

“ pork. 44 

Frosting, plain. 202 

Frumenty. 160 


Gargle for Sore Throat. 234 

Gateau des Pommes . 166 

Gathering, for a. 235 

Gems. . 145 

Giblet Pie. 70 

Gingerbread, soft. 187 

Ginger Horse-Cakes. 187 

Ginger-snaps. 187 

Goose, to roast a. 65 

Gooseberries, compote of. 171 
Grape Sherbet. 210 


PAGE 

Green Peas stewed with 


Ham and Lettuce. 96 

Green Turtle Steak (Epi¬ 
curean). 15 

Ground-Rice Milk. 225 

Grouse, fillet of. 78 

Gruel. 224 

Guinea Fowls, roast. 71 

Halibut, fillets of, a la 

Poidette . 18 

Ham, to boil a. 46 

“ to broil. 46 

Herb Teas. 231 

Hominy Drop-Cakes. 158 


Huckleberry Pudding.... 172 

Ice-Cream, chocolate... 207 
“ lemon or va¬ 


nilla. 205 

“ peach. 206 

“ strawberry .. 206 

Iced Currants. 210 


Indian-Meal Pudding.... 168 
Irish-Moss Blanc-mange. 226 


Jam, blackberry. 128 

“ crab-apple. 129 

“ gooseberry. 128 

“ raspberry. 128 


“ rhubarb, No. 1. 129 










































ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


241 


PAGE 


Jam, rhubarb. No. 2. 129 

“ strawberry. 127 

Jellied chicken.,. 69 

Jelly, apple. 130 

“ calve’s-foot.226 

“ cider-apple. 130 

“ currant. 131 

“ elderberry. 131 

“ for Cake. 196 

“ grape. 131 

“ of Pig’s Feet and 

Ears. 46 

“ quince and apple... 130 

“ red-haw. 132 

“ strawberry. 132 

“ Fruit-cake. 196 

Johnny-Cake. 157 

Jumbles.,.. 186 

Lady-Fingers. 195 

Lamb, breast of, with peas 38 

“ to roast... 39 

“ Chops... 39 

Lamb’s Head. 53 

Lemon Snow. 204 

Lentils, boiled, plain. 99 

“ Left-Overs,” utilizing 

the. 63 

“ Little Pigs in Blankets ” 53 

Liver, ragout of. 34 


PAGE 

Lobster, chowder. 25 

“ sauce. 26 


Macaroni, baked ___ 107 

Macaroons . 197 

Mackerel, broiled. 19 

Maids of Honor. 198 

Mango, pickle. 113 

Marketing, hints for. 54 

Marmalade, pine-apple... 129 

Mayonnaise. 94 

Meat Porcupine. 54 

Melons. 96 

Meringue, rice. 167 

Milk, ground-rice. 225 

Mincemeat without 

Brandy. 185 

Molasses Sauce. 173 

Muffins, maize. 156 

“ rye . 159 

Mush, fried. . 158 

Mushrooms, fried. 93 

“ stewed. 93 

“ pickled. 115 

Mustard and Cress. 95 

Mutton, au Chou . 37 

“ Broth. 223 

“ Steaks. 37 

“ stewed shoulder 
of. 3^ 























































242 


ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



PAGE 



PAGE 

Nasturtiums, to pickle. 

I 16 

Peanut Candy. 

220 



Pears, to preserve. 

124 

Oaten Cakes. 

160 

Peas, green. 

97 

Omelet, a nourishing.... 

224 

Pettitoes . 

5 i 

“ au Rhum . 

85 

Piccalilly. 

112 

“ asparagus. 

86 

Pickled Beet Root. 

114 

“ bread. 

85 


“ Carrots. 

114 

“ ham. 

86 


“ Barberries. 

116 

“ plain. 

85 


“ Cucumbers..... 

hi 

“ Spanish. 

86 


“ Eggs. 

1 15 

“ au Sucre . 

83 


“ Muskmelon. 

118 

“ aux Fines Herbes 

83 


“ Onions. 

hi 

“ with jelly. 

84 


“ Pork, to boil.... 

45 

“ Fritters. 

87 


“ Mango. 

1 13 

Onions, baked. 

105 


“ Ripe Cucumbers 

111 

“ boiled. 

105 

Pickles, Green Tomato .. 

112 

Opossums. 

76 


“ Pears. 

118 

Orange Baskets . 

205 

Pie, beefsteak. 

3 i 

“ Water Ice. 

210 

ft 

chicken. 

69 

Oven, to test the. 

144 

it 

custard. 

183 

Oysters, broiled. 

23 

a 

cocoanut. 

183 

“ Fried to the 


if 

cream... 

183 

Queen’s Taste. 

22 

ft 

dried-apple. 

180 

“ scalloped. 

22 

ft 

giblet. 

70 



if 

green apple . 

180 

Panada . 

225 

if 

lemon, No. 1 . 

184 

Parsnep Fritters . 

106 

if 

“ “ 2 

184 

Partridges, broiled . 

78 

ti 

orange, No. 1 . 

184 

Patties, oyster . 

21 

a 

“ “ 2 .. 

184 

Peaches, to preserve . 

123 

a 

pigeon . 

7 i 

Peach Leather . 

123 

ft 

prune .. 

181 


























































ALPHABETICAL INDEX . 


243 


PAGE 


PAGE 


Pie, pumpkin. 181 

“ peach. 181 

“ raisin.. . 185 

“ rhubarb... 180 

“ squash. 182 

“ tomato. 181 

“ woodcock. 78 

“ crust, flake. 179 

“ Murrey’s. 179 

Pigeon Pie. 71 

Pig’s Feet and Ears, jelly 

of.. 46 

“ Feet Soused. 45 

Pig, roast. 43 

Pork, Fritters. 44 

“ salt, with apples.... 44 

“ Steaks. 44 

“ Tenderloin on 

Toast.. 44 

“ to boil pickled .... 45 

Potage a la Reine. 8 

Pot Roast, duckling. 66 

Potatoes, au Maitre 

d'hotel . 100 

“ to boil sweet . 102 

“ “Hillocks”... 100 

“ mashed. 99 

“ Saratoga. 101 

“ Scones. 101 

“ Stewed. 101 

Pot-au-Feu . 5 


Preserved Barberries.... 126 

“ Cherries. 124 

“ Crab-Apple... 124 

Pudding, amber.-. 169 

“ chocolate...... 170 

“ cup plum.173 

“ English Christ¬ 
mas plum ... 173 

“ English tapioca 170 

“ Florentine. 168 

“ huckleberry- 172 

“ Indian meal .. . 168 

“ rice black-cap. . 167 

“ Spanish fruit... 165 

“ white or suet... 52 

“ sauce, plain_ 175 


Purle , chestnut. 64 

d'Oseille (Puree of 
Sorrel). 36 

Quince Cheese. 126 

Rabbit Curry. 77 

Radishes. 95 

Raisins, to stone easily... 203 

Raspberry Vinegar. 227 

Red Cabbage, to pickle.. 114 
Rice Black-cap Pudding. 167 

“ Japanese Style. 107 

“ Meringue. 167 

“ Waffles. 159 











































244 


ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


PAGE 


Roast Beef. 30 

“ Goose. 65 

“ Guinea Fowls. 71 

“ Lamb. 39 

“ Pig. 43 

“ Turkey. 61 

“ Wild Ducks. 79 

Rock cakes. 187 

Rogrod. 167 

Roly-Poly. 172 

Rusk. 147 

Salad, chicken, No. 1. .. 68 

“ “ “ 2.. . 69 

“ dandelion. 94 

“ lettuce. 95 

“ potato.102 

Sally Lunn. 159 

Salmon, broiled..... 17 

Salve. 234 

“ brown. 234 

Sauce, foaming. 174 

“ fruit-syrup. 174 

“ hard. 174 

“ Lobster. 26 

“ molasses. 173 

“ plain pudding ... . 175 

Sausages. 51 


“ to keep fresh all 
the year. 


PAGE 


Scent Sachets, No. i. 236 

“ “ “ 2. 236 

Scones, Scotch. 151 

Sherbet, grape. .. 210 

Shortcake, strawberry. . . 170 

Soup, a delicious. 10 

“ celery.. . . 9 

“ corn. 10 

“ eel. 6 

“ mock oyster. 7 

“ noodles for. 12 

“ okra, or gumbo.. . . 8 

“ oyster. 7 

“ pea . 9 

“ rabbit. 5 

“ marrow dumplings 

for. 11 

“ vermicelli. . 11 

Soused Pig’s Feet. 45 

Spanish Fruit Pudding.. 165 

Spare-Rib. 44 

Spinach and other greens 93 

SpongeCake. . . 19s 

Squashes . 106 

Squirrels, fricassee of.... 77 

Steak, a Spanish. 30 

“ broiled venison... 76 

“ pork. 44 

Stew, Irish. 38 

Stock, brown. 3 

“ veal. 4 


52 



















































ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


PAGE 

Strawberry Shortcake ,.. 170 


Sturgeon, roast. 16 

Succotash. 98 

Sugar, a la Creme . 217 

“ barley. 217 

Sweetbread, veal. 35 

# 

Tablet, ginger or cinna¬ 
mon . 218 

Taffy, walnut. 220 

Tea, beef. 223 

“ elder.... 232 

“ iced. 211 

“ pennyroyal. 232 

“ herb. 231 

“ slippery-elm ...... 232 

** to make. 211 

Terrapin, stewed. 24 

Thieves’ Vinegar. 236 

Toast, French. 152 

“ milk (for invalids) 226 

Toffee, vanilla.. 219 

Tomato, au Gratin . 104 

“ broiled. 104 

“ Preserves. 125 

“ stewed. 104 

“ to preserve. 125 

Tongue, to boil. 34 

Tripe, stewed. 51 

Trout, to fry. 15 


Turnips, a la Poulette .... 105 


2 45 

Turkey, dressed with Oys¬ 


ters . 62 

how to roast a. .. 61 

“ how'to select a.. 60 

Tutti-Frutti. 207 

Twelfth-Night Cake. 200 

Veal and Rice. 37 

“ braised. 36 

“ stewed. 36 

“ Sweetbread. 35 

Venison Steaks, broiled.. 76 

Vinegar, Thieves’. 236 

/ 

r 

Waffles, rice. 159 

Walnuts, creamed. •. 220 

“ to pickle. 116 

“ Taffy.... . 220 

Water-Cresses. 93 

“ fee, orange.210 

Watermelon Rinds, to 

preserve. 125 

Welsh Rarebit. 89 

Whitefish, fresh, fried.... 20 

Wild Ducks, to roast.... 79 

Woodcock Pie. 78 

Yeast. 140 

Yorkshire Pudding with 
Roast Beef. 33 


















































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